Turkey's bazaar love affair in Sultanahmet, Istanbul

ISTANBUL, where East meets West, truly is a place where museums, palaces, mosques and restaurants magically meet together.

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IT'S a well-worn cliche that Istanbul is a magical destination where East meets West.

Situated on the banks of the Bosphorus, the city's trendy bars are only a stone's throw from thousand-year-old mosques, and McDonald's and Starbucks sit happily next to traditional teahouses and pastanesis (patisseries).

While Istanbul has a growing European flavour, it's the Eastern delights that captivate visitors from all over the world.

Nowhere is there a bigger concentration of museums, palaces and mosques than Sultanahmet, a beautiful, cobblestoned suburb nestling on the edge of the Golden Horn. From the majesty of the Blue Mosque and Aya Sofya to the plethora of ancient artefacts in the Topkapi Palace, the area boasts more history per square metre than many destinations three or four times its size. Throw into the mix good food, fantastic views and a world-famous market, all within walking distance, and Sultanahmet deserves to be your first port of call when visiting Istanbul.

Tale of two mosques
Sultanahmet is dominated by two stunning mosques, Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque. The former is arguably the most popular building in Istanbul and was originally a church when completed in 537, until Mehmet the Conqueror claimed it for Islam in 1453 and converted it to a mosque.

The rather ordinary exterior belies what is within, a jaw-dropping 30m domed ceiling with more than 30 million mosaic tiles. The emperor Justinian said of the interior upon seeing it for the first time: "Glory to God that I have been judged worthy of such a work. Oh Solomon! I have outdone you!"

Across the Sultanahmet Park, the Blue Mosque was built by Sultan Ahmet I in the early 1600s to rival Aya Sofya's beauty, and many locals believe he achieved his goal. With the most minarets of any mosque in the city, the building gets its name from the tens of thousands of blue Iznik tiles on its own impressive domed ceiling.

It is best seen as the sun is setting, so make sure you take some time to contemplate the grandeur of the multi-layered structure in the large courtyard before entering the main building, which is still a working mosque.

Grandest of bazaars
On the outskirts of Sultanahmet, the world-famous Grand Bazaar (a quick stroll from Beyazit tram stop) is the beating heart of the city, a shopper's paradise since the 13th century and home to more than 4000 shops.

Expect to be accosted by traders wherever you go, as you're urged to view "the best carpet in Istanbul", always for the "best price", funnily enough. However, it's all friendly banter, with bartering and negotiation part of the Grand Bazaar experience for hundreds of years. If you leave without buying anything, you have more willpower than most.

As well as myriad carpet stalls, bookshops and jewellery stores, there are also plenty of great places to refuel after walking the kilometres of laneways. Try the famous Fes Cafe (Ali Baba Turbesi Sokak 25-27) for top-notch Turkish coffee or tea or grab a kebab with a local at the cheerful Burc Ocakbasi.

History lessons
The Topkapi Palace is the jewel in Istanbul's sightseeing crown, an outstanding museum rich with artefacts from every period of Turkish history Greek, Roman, Ottoman and Byzantine. As home of the ruling sultans, Topkapi was the site of intrigue, murder and rebellion throughout the ages and needs at least a full day of attention to see all it has to offer.

While you are free to wander the grounds of the pretty First Court, the Second and Third Courts (admission 20 Turkish lira, or $12) are home to the museum proper, housed in several opulent buildings around a picturesque courtyard. With collections of Chinese porcelain, regal kaftans, imperial carriages, Ottoman armour and various daggers and swords including the famous Topkapi Dagger and the Kasikci Diamond, the fifth-largest in the world the palace is a history buff's wonderland.

Make sure to head to the Sacred Safekeepings Room, the holiest of all rooms in the palace, where you will see a sword, bow and pieces of the beard of Prophet Muhammad, as well as the Harem, the imperial family quarters. Unfortunately, the Harem was not as debaucherous as some would like to think, with affairs run by the sultan's mother, who had "authority to regulate the relations between the sultan and his wives". Seems even the supreme ruler couldn't escape a bossy mother.

Eat, drink, be merry
No trip to Istanbul would be complete without sampling the local cuisine.

A top spot for burek (a meat-filled pastry) and baklava is the Cigdem Pastanesi (62/a Divanyolu Caddesi), a cheap and cheerful patisserie frequented by hungry students and locals in the know. As well as top-notch food, they make a mean Turkish coffee to complement one of the sweet, sticky desserts you feel almost obliged to finish off with.

Many restaurants in the Sultanahmet have rooftop areas, offering great views of the mosques and surrounds, especially after dark when they are beautifully lit up. Head to Kutlugun Sk and Utanga Sk for the best selection, and don't forget your camera.

Travel Tips: Istanbul destination guide

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