Cycling Croatia, the Adriatic's jewel

A SEVEN-DAY sailing-cycling tour through Croatia is just the ticket for Julia Clark.

Breath-taking ... turquoise waters on Croatia's Adriatic coast

THERE is much to experience in Croatia – picturesque villages, dramatic coastline, the islands of the crystal clear Adriatic, the beautiful walled city of Dubrovnik, national parks that are wonderlands of waterfalls and lakes.

A stunning way to start is with a cruise off the Adriatic coast of Central Dalmatia to the lush and peaceful islands. There is a wide variety of cruises to choose from, but we decided to add some exercise and adventure by exploring the islands by bicycle.

Our seven-day sailing-cycling tour promised, "travelling around the most spectacular coastline in Europe, discovering tiny islands and secluded coves hidden in the sparkling blue of the Adriatic. A new island or port every day with winding mountain and countryside trails".

We boarded our 30m classic motor cruiser in Split, the second-largest city in Croatia, and met our fellow cyclists and the charming crew over a relaxed and delicious three-course lunch in the dining cabin.

After a short cruise to the island of Solta, we chose a trusty-looking mountain bike and the 17 of us, with our suntanned, muscular guide, Julio, headed off for a 25km warm-up cycle. It was a challenge from the start as the first 5km were a steep ascent, but the views back to the boat were breathtaking. We passed olive groves, fig and carob trees, our senses filled with the scent of lavender and rosemary.

Our first night was spent in Brac's harbour town of Milna. Its natural stone houses border the bay. Brac is the largest island in Central Dalmatia, with a dramatic Mediterranean landscape of pines and steep cliffs sloping on to a rocky coast.

Dinner was at one of the welcoming Croatian restaurants and we feasted on grilled seafood and black risotto with light Croatian wine.

Our ensuite cabin on the top deck was cosy and we were soothed to sleep by the gentle rocking of the boat.

By 9am, we were back in the saddle and steadily cycling uphill towards Vidova Gora, Brac's peak at 780m. Coming from Perth with hardly a hill, this was far from easy and I was starting to feel like I was attempting the Tour de France.

Julio encouraged us onwards and upwards. We were in good hands given his past experiences as a triathlete, deep-sea diver and Croatian soldier, and his continual assurance: "Don't worry, you won't get lost, I have my talkie-walkie."

Lunch was a welcome relief – lamb on a spit, fried cheese and salads in a family restaurant overlooking a quarry of white marble famous for its used in the White House in Washington.

Of course, if you cycle 30km up one side of an island, there has to be a descent – 15km of hairpin, zig-zag road with sheer drops.

A few thought they really were in the Tour de France, and flew down. But I braked all the way, taking in the stunning views of the beach at Bol.

From Bol, the boat headed to Hvar. After dinner we took in an evening stroll to loosen the limbs and enjoyed a few drinks in the quaint village of Jelsa.

Hvar is the longest Adriatic island and receives more hours of sunshine than anywhere in the region (2724 hours a year). Yet it is luxuriantly green with brilliant patches of lavender, rosemary and heather.

The next day was a more relaxing cycle along countryside trails through small villages. Over coffee, Julio introduced us to his friend whose life he saved during the 1991 Balkan conflict. Julio carried his friend (then a fellow soldier) 17km on his back to safety.

Another steep, strenuous ascent was followed by a brake-crunching descent to the medieval town of Hvar, with its 13th century walls, marble streets, cathedral and Gothic palaces.

Our day on Korcula was the highlight of the trip. It is perhaps the most beautiful of the Adriatic islands with peaceful and secluded gardens of cypress trees, rolling hills, quiet coves and beaches.

There were just eight of us with Julio. The others decided to rest on the boat. We cycled through small villages and hamlets, vineyards and olive groves, and by noon we had climbed to Smokvica, which along with Venice claims to be the birthplace of Marco Polo. Julio took us to lunch at his friend's pizza restaurant – "the best pizzas in Croatia" – and perfect for a team of hungry cyclists.

Fuelled by pizzas topped with smoked Dalmatian ham and green olives, sardines, spinach and peppers, we cycled along cliff tops with spectacular views of shimmering blue bays. We pedalled into Korcula town in the late afternoon and after a swim explored this walled medieval town that resembles a mini Dubrovnik.

Stone houses nestle between the deep green hills and the azure sea, while narrow winding streets take you to towers that protected the harbour, St Mark's Cathedral and the 14th century Abbey Palace.

That evening, we headed to Cocktail Bar Massimo. It's at the top of a turret, so you have to climb a ladder and drinks are brought up by pulley. It's a novelty, and there's a lovely view of the cathedral.

The last island we visited was Mljet, the "honey island" for the many bees humming in its forests.

The western half is a pine forest national park with two lakes, one with a 13th century Benedictine monastery where 50 monks once lived. This day had the most relaxing cycle through lush national park and around the lakes.

Our last two days took in the Peljesac Peninsula through Croatia's most famous wine-growing area and the resort town of Makarska at the base of the 1762m Biokovo Mountain range.

After seven days of spectacular scenery and challenging riding, we finally cycled into Split.

The Sunday Times