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Best destinations in New England region of NSW

WITH rolling countryside, national parks aplenty and distinct seasons, New England North West makes for a scenic driving holiday, writes Brian Johnston.

Fossicking for sapphires near Glen Innes.
Fossicking for sapphires near Glen Innes.

BEST FOR COUNTRY SCENERY: NUNDLE

If you're looking for the most scenic country road in New England, I reckon the turn-off from Wallabadah on the New England Highway to the little village of Nundle surely comes out tops. It's 40km of unadulterated pleasure, through undulating farmland backed by blue hills alive with flocks of parrots. Nundle sits in a placid valley southeast of Tamworth and was founded in 1851 when gold was discovered at nearby Hanging Rock. You can explore its mining history, which is unexpectedly blended with some fine contemporary shopping at its handful of stores. Its pub has a wide veranda where you can observe the only intersection in town, and the beautiful fields that unroll beyond. Head out for a country picnic, fish in the dam, and drive to the lookout point with its sunset panorama. Or visit Arc-en-Ciel Trout Farm and taste its delicious produce. Even better, when it's time to leave, you get to drive those 40km all over again. And, if you're heading Sydney way, the splendid scenery continues another 76km south to Scone, where New England blends into the Upper Hunter. Wonderful. FURTHER INFORMATION nundle.com.au WHERE TO EAT The Peel Inn provides great nosh in cheerful surrounds. BEST FOR LINGERING: URALLA Sometimes it's easy just to blow through country towns with only a quick "Is that all?" glance out of your windscreen. You could do so in Uralla, but you'd be missing out on a New England treat. Stay the night, slow down, settle into the country pace and enjoy talking to the friendly locals. Uralla was established in the 1850s and its colonial facades are well-kept. Gothic-style buildings with high gables, churches and former general stores and police residences are all on show. Many now house shops such as Barking Dog Gallery for ceramics and glass. You'll also find Burnet's Books which stocks fine old books, maps and prints. The Uralla Wool Room has quite a reputation for Aussie-made, merino-wool garments, some of them hand-knitted, and also sells balls of fine wool for those keen knitters. And the latest good reason to stop is the recently-opened New England Brewing Company, where you can do a behind-the-scenes tour and learn all about the brewing process. Otherwise, simply head into this cellar door with-a-difference and try the brown, dark and pale ales on tap which are all brewed at the Old Woolstore. Dalrympleana Cottage in Uralla. FURTHER INFORMATION uralla.com WHERE TO VISIT A beautifully restored flour mill is home to the eccentric McCrossin's Mill Museum, where you can find out about notorious bushranger Captain Thunderbolt. BEST FOR NATIONAL PARKS: ARMIDALE Armidale is a stately country town known for its university and private boarding schools, but the surrounding countryside is about as wild as it gets. The region is a stunning congregation of rugged gorges, escarpments, World Heritage environments and national parks and waterfalls. The varied landscapes range from the last remaining rainforests on the edge of the Great Dividing Range to hills of tumbled boulders and vast granite caves. If you have limited time, Oxley Wild Rivers National Park is the easiest to access from town. Its Blue Hole, just 15 minutes out of Armidale, is a popular picnicking and swimming spot and has a very pleasant walking track along the rim of its gorge. Another easily visited attraction is Wollomombi Falls just off the Waterfall Way towards the coast. But anyone who loves the great outdoors could be here for weeks, whether trout fishing or birdwatching, or testing your limits with white-water kayaking, bush camping and rock climbing. And the good news is that, when you tire of wilderness, a good glass of local red from the surrounding vineyards and a fine guesthouse await in the cosy comfort of town. Perfect. FURTHER INFORMATION armidaletourism.com.au WHERE TO BIKE One of the best ways to enjoy the scenery around Armidale is from a mountain bike, with tracks at Pine Forest and Dumaresq Dam. BEST FOR FOSSICKING: GLEN INNES There are many good reasons to visit Glen Innes, including a well-preserved colonial main street, Celtic Festival and the very entertaining Land of the Beardies History House, one of the best folk museums in Australia. The region also sits on one of the world's richest gem fields, with sapphires and topaz there for the taking if you know where to look. Fossicking is a fun and inexpensive family activity, as all you need are a couple of sieves, a small hand pick and buckets. Some fossicking parks such as Fossickers, Boolabinda and Bullock Mountain hire out equipment, and will give you some idea of technique. Dress to get dirty. Alluvial sapphires are easiest to unearth in the gravel seams around old creek beds. Gemstones are slightly glossy and, if you hold them up to the sun, will be translucent and show some colour. Just remember that while the best sapphires are dark blue, they also come in yellow, green and parti-colour. Once (or if) you've found a gem, you can have it identified in town, and even cut and faceted into your own jewellery.Fossicking for sapphires near Glen Innes. FURTHER INFORMATION gleninnestourism.com WHERE TO STAY Cherry Tree Guesthouse is a lovely, self-contained three-bedroom accommodation with delightful country views. Rates from $225 a couple. BEST FOR HISTORY: INVERELL This bustling regional centre is a good place to explore the history of the region, starting with some fine buildings in town such as the Inverell Art Gallery (inverellartgallery .com.au) which was a former school of the arts. Rev-heads and motoring aficionados won't want to miss the National Transport Museum, which covers the history of the motor car. Most of the exhibits are on loan from private owners, many from the Inverell area and with a distinctive local history. Among the 140 vehicles on display are an intact 1906 Dayton, the oldest car in the museum and believed to be the only one left worldwide. You can also admire everything from a 1912 Renault to a 1929 Packard and various Holdens and Fords. Then head over to Inverell Pioneer Village, where colonial buildings from the surrounding district have been relocated. A colonial-era kitchen in Inverell Pioneer Village. Picture: Supplied It's well laid out and showcases an 1887 schoolhouse, 1840s homestead and 1874 pub, complete with piano in the front parlour. Among the most fascinating stops is a colonial-era kitchen from an old homestead, complete with ice chest, butter churn, laundry barrel and every cluttered detail down to the irons, pots, butter pats and tea-towels hanging to dry in the hearth. FURTHER INFORMATION inverell.com.au BEST FARM DOOR Drive 9km out of town for olive-oil tasting at this well-presented farm door among the olive groves in Beaulieu and stock up on olive products and estate-manufactured spices. MAKE IT HAPPEN 3 WAYS TO DO NEW ENGLAND Getting There Virgin Australia. Ph 13 67 89 More information: newenglandnorthwest.com.au 1. Budget Sleep: Walcha Caravan Park has powered sites (from $29 for two), cabins (from $95), underfloor heating in the amenities block, and a new camp kitchen. Eat and drink: Cafe Graze is housed in a fine colonial building with a cheerful, contemporary interior and serves wraps, soups, burgers and cakes. Ph 6777 2409 Shop: Antique Junque, crammed with antiques, bric-a-brac and shabby-chic furnishings, is sure to reveal a bargain treasure. Ph 6777 2864 Do: Check out Walcha's free open-air gallery of over 40 sculptures around the town centre, ranging from wooden figures to abstract metal creations. 2. Mid-Range Sleep: Dalrympleana Cottage is a two-storey holiday home with two spacious bedrooms, a full kitchen and open-plan living area. Rates from $160. Eat and drink: The bistro at Top Pub has excellent food such as African-spiced lamb or fig-and-garlic roasted chicken. Pub classics around $20, house specialties $30. Shop: Take a stroll down memory lane at The Sweet Place, where old-fashioned lollies include toffees, humbugs and pear drops. Do: Take a drive into the countryside and visit lovely little Gostwyck Chapel, especially striking in autumn when it's covered in red ivy. 3. Luxury Sleep: Petersons Guesthouse is a superb homestead sitting among the vines just outside Armidale, and can also provide an excellent dinner and breakfast. Rooms from $200. Eat and drink: The tucked-away, casual-dining Bistro on Cinders is a bright, contemporary space with light offerings for lunch. Shop: There's no luxury like fresh, wood-fired bread. Head to popular Goldfish Bowl and pick up a gourmet loaf or sandwiches for a picnic. Ph 6771 5533 Do: A scenic flight over the Armidale countryside and national park gorges is a stunning way to admire the scenery. From $250 a person. "Like" Escape.com.au on Facebook Follow @Escape_team on Twitter

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