This city is so much more than you think it is

PEOPLE are still picking on this city, describing it as a “crime-ridden urban jungle”. It’s time Australians took another look.

The magnificent Bellas Artes Palace. Picture: Mexico Tourism

DEAR Mexico City residents,

You deserve an apology. People are still picking on your metropolis, describing it as a “crime-ridden urban jungle”.

It’s time Australians took another look.

The Mexican capital is far safer than it was when crime reached its peak in 1997. It’s now considered one of the safest cities in Latin America.

Flowers along Paseo de la Reforma. Picture: Leah McLennan

Day of the Dead altar for Frida Kahlo. Picture: Leah McLennan

I found inviting neighbourhoods, clean air and revamped green spaces, including the blissful Chapultepec Park — one of the world’s great urban parks.

And Mexico City is not difficult for Aussies to get to — it’s just a three and a half-hour flight from Los Angeles. And with the Mexican peso hitting record lows it’s a very affordable destination.

Historian Hector Buenrostro showed Leah around Templo Mayor. Picture: Leah McLennan

The city’s famous Angel of Independence. Picture: Flickr/Matthew Rutledge

Street art in Mexico City. Picture: Flickr/Paul Sableman

INTO THE ORGANISED CHAOS

On this 18C pre-Christmas morning I’m standing atop the city’s victory column, the Angel of Independence, having climbed an oxygen-sapping 200-step staircase.

I’m travelling alone on this weeklong jaunt. Now that I’m looking over this beautiful city on a clear sky day I think how glad I am that unfounded fear did not keep me away.

If it did I would have missed out on a city as high-octane as Tokyo, as historical as Rome and with a culinary scene on par with New York City.

Leah McLennan thinks Australians need to reconsider what they think they know about the Mexican capital. Picture: Fleur Grillon

A typical street scene in Mexico City. Picture: Flickr/Blok 70

Not to mention a destination with the second largest number of museums on the planet after London.

Of course there are areas where I should not venture, but Mexico City is not the organised crime hub that many people think. And most of the sites of interest to tourists are located smack-bang in the historic centre.

You could easily spend three or four days in the historic centre, eating in the old-school cantinas, exploring the grand National Palace, where Diego Rivera painted The History of Mexico, and visiting Templo Mayor, the ruins of the 14th century Aztec kingdom Tenochtitlan.

Templo Mayor was one of the main temples of the Aztecs. Picture: Leah McLennan

“This is one of the strangest archaeological sites,” says historian Hector Buenrostro as he shows me around Templo Mayor or Great Temple.

“They’re usually in the middle of nowhere, but this — the most important building of the Mexico’s culture — is right in the middle of the city.”

Cafe culture in strong in the capital. Picture: Flickr/Alejandro

BIKES, COFFEE AND MARGARITAS

In the historic centre you can also borrow a bike — it’s best to plan this for car-free Sundays. And if you need caffeine, the best (in my opinion) is at the food truck in Lic Verdad (a street leading from the Templo Mayor exit towards the National Palace).

“Mexico City is like a monster that you can’t help but fall in love with,” says Claudia Lozano from Mexico City’s tourism board over a tamarind margarita at the gorgeous Barrio Alameda in the historic centre.

“Visitors to Mexico City often tell me that they never have enough time here,” she says.

“It’s like drinking tequila, you never want it to end.”

Pouring mescal, the Mexican firewater best known for the worm in the bottle. Picture: Flickr/Paul Sableman

THE WORLD’S BEST

It’s now unsurprising to me that The New York Times named Mexico City as the number one travel destination for 2016.

“A metropolis that has it all,” the publisher wrote. “Certainly there is no more exciting place to eat.”

Here are some reasons why Mexico City gained its top ranking:

Open-air street markets are common in Mexico City, selling handcrafted jewellery, clothing and food. Picture: Leah McLennan

1. A FRIDA KAHLO OBSESSION

Artist Frida Kahlo grew up in her parent’s house, the Casa Azul, also known as the Blue House. A visit to her house is an absolute highlight of any trip to Mexico.

Frida Kahlo merchandise is everywhere. Picture: Lean McLennan

Kahlo’s wheelchair and paints. Picture: Lean McLennan

2. A GORGEOUS PALACE

Chapultepec Castle sits atop a hill with views of the Paseo de la Reforma, a boulevard modelled after Paris’s Champs-Élysées. One section of the castle, begun in 1785, preserves the opulent rooms occupied by Emperor Maximilian and Empress Carlota.

Paseo de la Reforma, a boulevard modelled on Paris’ Champs Elysees, can be seen from the palace. Picture: Leah McLennan

Inside the lavish Chapultepec Castle. Picture: Leah McLennan

3. FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD

If you don’t reserve early, you might miss out on a table at Enrique Olvera’s Michelin-starred Pujol. Don’t worry there are plenty more drinking and dining destinations causing a buzz in Mexico City.

4. COLOURFUL MARKETS

Mercado de San Juan (San Juan Market) in the city centre is a mind-boggling maze of stalls selling piñatas, sweets, hardware — you name it. And if you’re looking to purchase scorpion tacos or worm quesadillas you’ve come to the right place.

Delicious food at Barrio Alameda in downtown Mexico City. Picture: Leah McLennan

Scorpions for sale at the San Juan market. Picture: Leah McLennan

5. PARTY PEOPLE

Mexico City has mega-cool night-life. Think pumping music and cantinas pouring non-stop tequila and mescal, the Mexican firewater best known for the worm in the bottle.

Salud, Mexico City.

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T he writer was a guest of Mexico City tourism (CDMX)