Why this Singapore theme park is “hell on earth”

Located on this major city’s outskirts is a most hellish attraction that few dare to visit. This is the creepy reason why.

A scantily clad half-pig, half-human parades in underwear; bloodied, decapitated heads poke out from rock; a dressed-up deer and turtle share a moment with tea.

With images like that, one must wonder what on earth is going on.

This eccentric mishmash isn’t the stuff of acid dreams; these bloody, brazen and downright bizarre visions are real and are curiously compelling.

I’m at Singapore’s historical Haw Par Villa, otherwise known as Singapore’s ‘Disneyland’.

Far removed from the country’s inoffensive, state-of-the-art and innovative sites, this 88-year-old attraction was surprisingly built for kids – adults, too.

It was full of twists and turns. Picture: Supplied / Julia D’Orazio

The off-kilter theme park was founded in 1937 by the son of Tiger Balm creator, Aw Boon Haw. A flamboyant and savvy businessman, he was responsible for introducing the topical ointment brand to the world.

Wanting to give back to society, the OG Tiger King built the public park – also known as Tiger Balm Gardens – in honour of his brother, Aw Boon Par, with both their names inspiring “Haw Par Villa”.

A major attraction in its heyday, the sprawling 8.5-hectare park consists of 1000-plus lifelike sculptures immortalising Chinese myths and legends depicting life lessons, philosophies and mortality. While many scenes have cartoonish appeal, some are hard to swallow, and some are the stuff of nightmares.

Inside the 'hells museum' in the park. Picture: Supplied / Haw Par Villa

Fortunately, I’m initially oblivious to the doom and gloom that awaits, instead first exposed to the park’s more cheerful side.

Like any typical theme park, Singapore’s so-called ‘Disneyland’ brims with colour and over-the-top decor.

Its entrance features a traditional Chinese red gate ornate with the brand’s iconic tiger. Psychedelic magma-like rock borders its main thoroughfare uphill.

But it’s only at the end of the winding, red brick road that all becomes strange and surreal.

It was like nothing I had seen before. Picture: Supplied

I’m wide-eyed, wandering this treasure trove of timeworn sculptures desperately needing a touch-up.

Its tiered, larger-than-life dioramas feature provocative poses – threesomes, a topless mermaid – and countless humanised animals doing all sorts of things, such as a wedding of a rat and rabbit.

In between the kitsch, there’s the Chinese teaching of immortals, the honouring of medicine peddlers and Chinese opium war hero Lin Zhe Xu.

There were grotesque statues all over the place. Picture: Supplied

The park was full of surprises. Picture: Supplied

Perhaps ahead of its time, its Crayola-coloured pond area is Insta-worthy. Besides its bright-hue appeal, it has two pagodas – one with a seated Buddha – towering over a miniature Statue of Liberty.

There’s even a homage to Australia with life-size koalas and kangaroos cavorting on grassed grounds.

While access to Singapore’s largest outdoor gallery is free, its most unabashed sculptures are found behind the gates of hell.

Located within Har Paw Villa is Hell’s Museum, the world’s first museum dedicated to celebrating life and death.

Described as the ‘coolest Hell of Earth’, the gallery explores the concepts of death, the afterlife, and the meaning of life across all religions and ideologies.

I didn't know where to look. Picture: Supplied

Like life itself, the museum is divided into stages.

The first section invokes deep thought on life philosophies, death rituals and traditions. Tombstones, shrines are erected with informative panels encircling an exposed crypt. (Thankfully, it’s empty.) If walking over a coffin is not eerie enough, the second section is not for the faint-hearted.Haw Par Villa’s stomach-turning ‘10 Courts of Hell’ touches on judgment, punishment of sins, and redemption in the afterlife.

With gruesomeness to rival a Hollywood horror, the infamous darkened chamber exhibits unfortunate souls being tortured for various transgressions.

Beings are burned, impaled, dismembered. It’s hardly a place to be snap-happy.

I’m told it was once a popular spot for local parents to educate children about the consequences of any wrongdoing, exposing them to its unsettling scenes.

An experience – I could only imagine – endured in young minds (as it still does in mine). Terrifying stuff.

But with the advancement of Singapore’s entertainment options and architectural marvels, it is no wonder the amusement park fails to woo large crowds as it once did. Its fiery underworld and collection of peculiar sculptures from a bygone era are a side of Singaporean culture that few tourists experience.

Even with its oddities and gore, it is worth a visit – even if it is Hell on Earth.

Julia D’Orazio is a freelancer writer and a guest of the Singapore Tourism Board.