Why Hue in Vietnam should be the top of your Vietnam bucket list

Move over Bali and Thailand, there is another country in Asia Aussies are flocking to — and they’re leaving their mark.

The scent of lemongrass and mint takes me by surprise as I enter a tiny kitchen in central Vietnam – and my tastebuds instantly know I’m in for a treat.

A giant pot of pumpkin soup heats slowly on a hotplate; to my left, a middle-aged woman delicately hand-rolls rice paper sheets into what will be spring rolls.

Remember that scene from the movie ‘Hook’ when the Lost Boys are about to eat their imaginary feast?

It’s a bit like that, except the endless plates of vegetables, diced meat, and fresh herbs in Ms Haoi’s kitchen are the real deal, as is the sense of generosity and care that’s gone into preparing this meal.

Getting ready for the lunch of a lifetime.

Dang Thi Haoi’s great-grandparents once cooked for Vietnam’s royal family, and I’m now about to taste the very same recipes that have endured generations.

This sense of history underscores everything across Vietnam, and the city of Hue, where I’ve found myself waiting for lunch, holds a special place for its role in the country’s past.

Formerly the Imperial capital of Vietnam, Hue (pronounced “Hway”) was considered the cultural, political, and religious heart of Vietnam from the early 1800s through to the end of the Nguyen dynasty in 1945.

It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1993, and if you set aside a few days to explore, you’ll discover the Perfume River running through the city is dotted with royal tombs and pagodas, all of which have survived centuries of conflict.

Locals believe the landscape of the Ngu Binh Mountain range, also called the “Royal Screen” and upon which the nearby Imperial Citadel is built, resembles the shape of a dragon.

This kind of storytelling is present everywhere you look, and it’s this blend of history, mythology, and food which I really loved about Hue, and Vietnam in general.

Hue is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is full of stunning royal tombs including the Thien Mu pagoda.

More Aussies flocking to Vietnam

Admittedly, while other places in Asia like Thailand, Cambodia and Bali have typically been more popular, well-trodden destinations, Vietnam runs its own race with its unique take on culture, flavour and history.

It would seem that I’m not alone in this line of thinking with Vietnam becoming increasingly popular as the destination of choice for Aussie travellers.

According to Intrepid, year-on-year passenger numbers to Vietnam have grown 166 per cent when comparing 2023 to 2022.

The overwhelming majority of customers booking trips to Vietnam are also Aussies (43 per cent), followed by Brits (24 per cent), and the US and NZ (each 11 per cent).

And as far as Vietnamese cities go, Hue has a lot to offer.

Alongside incredible value for money, the city felt more understated than the bustle of Ho Chi Minh (formerly Saigon) and worth a stopover, particularly if you’re visiting nearby Da Nang or Hoi An.

Full disclosure: given it was my first time in Vietnam, I chose to explore the country via Intrepid’s Southern Express tour, which cost $1950 for 10 days, inclusive of most meals and accommodation.

Alongside great value for money and a small-sized group, the itinerary gave me a fantastic snapshot of Vietnam, starting in the current capital Hanoi, weaving through Hoi An (home to the famous silk tailors), the Mekong Delta, and ending in Ho Chi Minh City.

I later found out that it’s also the company’s top-selling trip out of Australia at the moment.

The Imperial Citadel has survived centuries of conflict.

Getting to Hue was half the fun, with our group taking the overnight train from Hanoi.

If you’re game to try it out, book a sleeper cabin (which sleeps up to six people); this will set you back around 500,000 VND ($32). Also, take snacks and supplies as there are basically no food options on-board.

The journey takes around 14 hours, and after a while, you’ll get used to the rocking and grinding of the carriage on the tracks. Once you’re out of Hanoi, there’s some pretty impressive landscapes to take in.

Most of us caught a few hours of sleep, but when Duy, our tour guide, asked if we’d like to experience a local, home-cooked meal, it was a unanimous “yes” from everyone to recharge the batteries.

A short shuttle bus later, and we were ready for the lunch of a lifetime.

The aftermath of a delicious home-cooked feast in Hue.

Compared to other cuisines, particularly parts of Europe and the US, Vietnamese food feels fresher and lighter, with a big focus on flavour.

Our feast began with a range of starters: the traditional Vietnamese pumpkin soup I’d seen warming up earlier on the hob (known as Canh Bi Do), jackfruit salad full of fresh lime juice and chilli, and homemade spring rolls.

From here, the courses kept coming. Next was a delicious caramelised pork and tofu dish served in clay pots. The meat practically melted in your mouth, and you could taste the fresh ginger and garlic.

Minced pork with baby tomatoes arrived next, dressed with spring onions and coriander, which Duy explained was a family staple on the dinner table in Vietnam.

The sweet and sour tomato soup was also delicious, a variation of the traditional Canh Chua dish which typically includes seafood, pineapple, and bean sprouts, followed by freshly picked fruit for dessert.

It was a scorcher outside, and I wasn’t turning down a cold beer either.

To cheers in Vietnamese, say ‘Một hai ba, dô’.

To properly toast, Duy taught us the Vietnamese phrasing of “Má»™t hai ba, dô”, which essentially translates to “one, two, three, cheers,” with the all-important clinking of the glasses ending a pretty spectacular meal.

After lunch, we explored the Thien Mu pagoda, a 21 metre octagonal structure overlooking the Perfume River.

Destroyed and rebuilt multiple times since its original construction in the 1600s, the site is politically significant and includes a memorial to Thích Quảng Đức, the monk who immolated himself in June 1963 in protest of the persecution of Buddhist monks, a moment that made global headlines.

Like Bali and Thailand, getting around on a scooter is one of the best ways to see Vietnam, and this is how we spent our second day in Hue. Renting one will cost about 150,000D ($10); just make sure you have adequate travel insurance.

We zipped over to the Imperial City, a fortress with the wow factor, despite more than 80 per cent of its original structures being destroyed during the French Indochina war of the 1940s and the Vietnam War (known locally as the American War).

Scooters are the best way to get around Hue but remember to get travel insurance

Exploring the site was fascinating and worth half a day, plus going in the early morning meant fewer crowds and beating the heat.

Our next stop was the tomb of Emperor Tu Duc, who infamously had 104 wives and countless mistresses but never produced a royal heir.

The mausoleum is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the region for its lavish gardens and artistic influences, and was designed by the Emperor himself in the lead up to his death.

The day ended with another incredible meal, this time in Hue’s Phu Hoi night-life district.

Full of bars and restaurants, the streets come alive after sunset with neon lights and the bustle of tourists and backpackers. For me, it was a less overwhelming version of similar districts in Bangkok and Ho Chi Minh City.

Good morning Vietnam,

Here, we ate at the Golden Rice restaurant, where I spent around 250,000 VND ($16) on a round of delicious duck pancakes, chicken vermicelli noodles for my main meal, and a few more beers to wash the night away.

I ended my time in Hue with a brand new tattoo and a game of Jenga with some locals at a nearby bar.

Each of the Jenga blocks had little dares that had been inscribed by previous travellers – I turned one over and saw written in blue ink, “do a shoey”.

The note made me laugh out loud, I don’t think I’m the first Australian who has discovered the streets of Hue, I also doubt I’ll be the last.

These duck pancakes tasted so good.

Vietnam, in general, felt like one big adventure, and I can’t wait to get back to see more of it.

Thankfully, it’s also about to get a whole lot easier to fly to Vietnam, with the country’s major budget carrier Vietjet announcing plans to increase its presence down under.

“Vietjet’s launch in key Australian cities, including Brisbane, Melbourne, and Sydney, with direct flights to Ho Chi Minh City, demonstrates Vietjet’s strong commitment to providing a new option to explore Vietnam — a rapidly growing tourist destination among Australians, and a great alternative to popular holiday spots like Bali and Thailand,” a spokesperson told news.com.au.

“As we continuously expand our footprint in Australia, we will increase our flight frequency to give Australians more flight choices to visit Vietnam.”

This made me laugh – I don’t think I’m the first Australian who has discovered the streets of Hue.

Starting in December, Vietjet will also be launching daily return flights from Melbourne and Sydney, while Brisbane will offer three return flights per week.

“Vietjet’s extensive domestic network will deliver greater choices for Australian travellers wanting to explore other cities across Vietnam, including exciting but lesser-known destinations like the ancient capital of Hue, which is only an hour and a half flight away from Ho Chi Minh City,” they added.

“This hidden gem boasts of palaces and historic imperial architecture and was Vietnam’s national capital from 1802 to 1945, with the best travel time being February to April.

“Hue is also a short drive away to Danang, the central commercial hub of Vietnam, and the UNESCO heritage site, Hoi An.”

Vietjet is also regularly holding weekly promotions for Australian travellers until October 25, 2023. Across this period, every Wednesday, Thursday and Friday, the airline has an ongoing promotion that gives travellers the chance to score free connecting flights departing from Ho Chi Minh City to other domestic destinations within Vietnam.

Troy Nankervis is a freelance journalist and TV producer, you can follow him on Instagram.