Hunt for a red Prada

FOR those in the know, secretive private shops in Hong Kong sell 'fake reals' so good bartering is out of the question.

IT WAS like a meeting at the United Nations. Nine people – two Americans, three Kiwis and four Australians – on one side of a small upstairs room engaged in a campaign of whispers.

Across the room, standing with arms folded in defiance, were four battle-hardened salespeople ready to engage in yet another conflict.

I was sitting somewhere near the middle. The neutral observer.

The prize today – bags. Not just any bags. These are Hong Kong's best fakes. Bags so good that only an expert could spot the difference. On the streets they are referred to as "fake reals".

You can't just stumble into this shop. You must be introduced.

It is not in a dodgy part of town. It is sandwiched between big department stores and up-market shops on Central, home to Hong Kong's best architecture and antiques.

If you didn't know where to go you would never find it. And that's the way the people who run the store like it.

Our group is led up a flight of stairs to a lift. Half the group squeezes into the first ride to another level. The person who has brought us here then knocks on a door. There are no signs, nothing to indicate what lies ahead. When the door opens we shuffle into a small room with yet another door. We are told not to touch anything. The man then reaches deep into the leg of a red pair of Chinese pyjamas, he pulls out a key and unlocks the door.

It is the Holy Grail of handbag shops: Gucci, Hermes, Chanel, Christian Dior, Prada, Tod's, Chloe, Louis Vuitton, Fendi and Burberry. All shapes and sizes. Some this year's style, some classics. And the smell – real leather.

The room itself was no more than four metres wide and about eight metres in length. But it was stacked to the rafters. Bags upon bags upon bags.

For me, it was like watching an animal kingdom documentary as my female companions sprang into action. Their movements were swift and decisive. There was the odd squeal of excitement. Thankfully there were no territorial disputes; there were more than enough bags to go around.

After 20 minutes it was time to bargain. Unsure of how to approach the topic of price, the women huddled and in a whisper and shared tactics. No one wanted to go first, so the plan was hatched to ask for a group discount. Agreed.

But in typical UN fashion, the ink was still drying on the deal when the Americans decided to do their own thing. The well-dressed, well-spoken, gum-chewing Bostonian leapt into battle. Her chocolate Christian Dior tote, if it were real, would retail for $HK20,000 ($3500). The special price today was $HK1850.

"I'll pay $HK1000," she said. "No. $HK1850 is the price," came the rapid-fire reply.

"No. I'll pay $HK1000."

The saleswoman then set the tone for the rest of the negotiations.

"If you want cheap fakes, go elsewhere. We use the best products. The real leather. You can't tell the difference between this bag, and the real thing, and then you want to rob me. NO! The bag costs $HK1850."

Flustered, with a darkening pink tinge coming across her face, the American played what she thought would be her trump card. "No thanks." She turned and headed toward the door fully expecting to be called back. Not a word.

On seeing this, the Kiwis downed bags, muttered that these prices were too high and departed, leaving the four Australians and four shopkeepers to do business. Ten minutes later, discounts negotiated, nine handbags purchased, and everyone was smiling. Just to give you an idea of price, two people bought soft leather Prada handbags for $120. Another person in the group had bought the real thing in Melbourne for $900. Not real, but a real bargain.

And how would you expect these bargain hunters to celebrate? Why dinner, of course, at the Peninsula Hotel in Gaddi's, one of Hong Kong's best restaurants.

The bill was about $230 per head, which proves shopping is not about the bargain, it is about the hunt.

What happened next: Our Bostonian belle could not help herself. She went back the next day and bought the Christian Dior tote for $HK1700. She also bought another six bags at a 10 per cent discount.

Where is it: Can't tell you. I asked the lady for the address. "We move a lot. Nature of the business," she said. She did, however, give me her mobile number which I can pass on to anyone heading to Hong Kong who wants to call me.