Green and serene in Bali

YOGA, jungle walks and a healthy approach to eating make Ubud's Como Shambhala a blissful place to stay, reports Christine McCabe.

SMALL bats swoop beneath the eaves of our thatched living pavilion as butler Wiwied lights candles strung from a twisted frangipani tree.

A fire has been lit in the stone pit by the swimming pool and, far below, in the jungle ravine, a mountain tributary rushes towards the sacred River Ayung.

This is Sound of Fire, a villa at the heart of the Como Shambhala Estate at Begawan Giri, 20 bumpy minutes by paved road and village track from Bali's hill town of Ubud.

"Sacred place of bliss" is the estate's calling card and, indeed, it is hard to imagine a more serene retreat. A series of contemporary thatched pavilions set among coconut palms and pea-green manicured lawns spill down either side of a jungle ridge high above the river.

A natural spring, revered by locals for healing properties, feeds an elegant water garden, part of designer John Pettigrew's restrained landscaping that deftly melds the cultivated with the untamed forest.

With the opening of a cutting-edge spa and under the guiding hand of savvy Singapore-based hotel entrepreneur Christina Ong, the Como has established itself as one of Asia's leading health retreats, providing bespoke programs in surroundings at one with nature.

Celebrities are not immune to the lure of this magical place (rock star Sting is one of many famous guests) and the absolute privacy of the accommodation has much to do with Como's star status.

The retreat is configured as a series of large villas with pools, but many guests opt for a private residence, of which there are five, each with its own butler and staff, four or five suites and a full-sized swimming pool.

Given the retreat's health bent, the minibar is stocked with juice, water and organic tea bags (although wine is available with meals). Breakfast is organic and meat-free (although there is smoked salmon), with fruit grown on the estate and a nutritionist on hand to help tailor individual menus.

Dedicated non-dieters, fear not: you are well catered for. Dinners in the charming Kudus, an 150-year-old Javanese house lined with ornately carved teak, are a treat. The beef rendang is a standout and dinner generally begins with a sharp palate-cleanser such as passionfruit granita followed by crisp beans served with a spicy Indonesian soy dipping sauce. If you are feeling lazy, Kudus's staff will deliver dinner to your residence or villa.

The food is excellent but the new spa is where Como really shines: it features nine minimalist treatment rooms perched on a grassy ledge with lap pool and jungle views.

A large team of professional staff, including Ayurvedic doctors employing the latest equipment (from hydrotherapy pools to a hi-tech colonic hydrotherapy machine), ensure guests are able to destress, detox or simply recharge by the time they check out.

Signature treatments include the Pizhichil massage, in which warm oil flows continuously over the entire body to supposedly balance doshas and correct the flow of prana (energy). And I have to recommend the deep-tissue massage: the best I've had anywhere.

Body treatments form only one element of Como's holistic approach to health. Yoga is key here and attracts leading exponents. One-on-one sessions are available.

A complimentary daily schedule of activities begins with an early morning jungle walk. From there it might be on to tennis, rafting, martial arts, Pilates or climbing.

Personal trainers can assist in the airconditioned indoor gymnasium and, yes, there is even a jungle gym.

The pick of the excursions is the Kintamani freewheel. Participants are dropped at the rim of the Mt Batur volcano just after sunrise to freewheel a bicycle down bumpy country roads through villages and forest, arriving back at Como in time for breakfast.

Better yet, spend an afternoon at the jungle rockpool hidden at the base of the ravine like a set from a Tarzan movie, replete with chattering monkeys and a diving platform.

The long climbs inherent in a stroll in this neck of the woods are made easier with the judicious placement of daybed platforms thoughtfully draped with mosquito netting and set with comfy bolsters.

Like everything else at Como, vertiginous walks are entirely optional: do as much or as little as you like. I can report that a gin and tonic while bobbing in the pool by the light of a blazing fire proves very destressing indeed.

Christine McCabe was a guest of Como Shambhala.