Deadly fugu aquafarm reveals why Nagato, in Japan’s south, is one of the nation’s best-kept secrets
Surrounded by forests, mountains and oceanside cliffs lies a row of nondescript buildings with curved ceilings. What’s hidden inside is truly mind-blowing stuff.
Tucked away by the coast in one of Japan’s most underrated cities lies a row of nondescript buildings with high curved ceilings.
Inside, tens of thousands of adorable fish – separated and grouped by size – are feasting on leftover sake in enormous circular tanks, where the water temperature is precisely monitored by workers towering above on wooden planks.
For the uninitiated, it looks like an aquarium.
But there’s a catch: these are highly poisonous tiger puffer fish – each one containing “one of the most potent neurotoxic poisons found in nature”.
Just two milligrams of the toxin is enough to kill a human in hours.
Making matters worse, the fish are so aggressive that workers must painstakingly saw off their teeth to stop them from eating each other alive.
In one year, they’ll grow to weigh upwards of 1kg and be shipped to high-end restaurants in Tokyo and Osaka to be served sashimi-style as a seafood delicacy known as “fugu”.
Highly-trained chefs are handed licenses by the government to ensure the toxic parts of the fish are carefully removed, leaving the meat to be thinly sliced and served with soy sauce.
The slick operation is taking place at Choshu Nagato Fisheries, in the Yamaguchi prefecture of the hidden gem city of Nagato.
Despite travelling to Japan a number of times, it’s sadly the first time I’ve ever found myself in the nation’s south.
I’m part of the well-documented problem Japan is desperate to fix – over tourism in the “Big 3” (Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto) – while coastal paradises like Nagato slip under the radar.
How to spend three days in Nagato
Day one
Less than two hours on a plane from Tokyo and I land in the bustling harbour city of Fukuoka.
It’s impossible to ignore the chaotic energy of the city, which I soak up as I hop on the subway system which is (unsurprisingly) simple to navigate as a tourist and running like clockwork.
The sunset views from the top-floor restaurant at GATE hotel in the heart of the CBD are quite literally breathtaking, peering out above the metropolis with the Genkai Sea as the backdrop.
The next morning I’m off to explore nearby Nagato, which takes just 40 minutes on the Shinkansen (Japan’s lightning fast Bullet train network).
Nagato is famous for its five famous hot springs, or ‘onsens’, which all share the same alkaline waters but each have distinct characters of their own.
“It’s really the opposite of Tokyo,” a Nagato City Tourism representative tells me, declaring proudly:
“This is Japan’s hidden coastal gem.”
I have to pinch myself during a short drive to our first destination as the winding road takes us through expansive rainforests followed by stunning Amalfi-esque beachside towns.
Our first pit stop is the rugged workshop of Yuzen Inoue, an artisan who has spent decades perfecting the art of producing snowlike salt.
Using an ancient technique called tenchi gaeshi – dating back to the 1300s – he is able to extract up to 300kg of salt a week thanks to the mineral-rich water of the nearby Sea of Japan.
We’re joined by Akifumi Okafuji, a polite young businessman decked out in an immaculate suit and trendy Nikes who I soon find out is the owner of our accommodation for the night: Hotel Yokikan.
Part of the experience of venturing outside of Japan’s frenetic major cities is staying in “ryokans” – traditional Japanese inns that focus on offering a cultural journey rather than just a bed to sleep in.
The ocean views from my room are truly world class, and the private onsen briefly sends me to a state of pure bliss before I realise I’m running late for a ten-course meal in the dining hall.
The night ends at the ryokan’s “sake bar” – which is lined with premium bottles of alcohol that spit out a healthy shot for you once you insert a coin like a vending machine.
Day two
Fighting a sore head from the free-flowing sake (later mixed with ice cream – highly recommend), we hop back onto a bus to travel to the Motonosumi Shrine.
It’s refreshingly devoid of tourists – which makes snapping a selfie at the winding clifftop path – after passing through 123 bright red gates – a piece of cake.
We pit stop at the fugu farm before eating the produce (cooked five ways) at a nearby restaurant and then head off for an ocean cruise in a bright pink boat that looks like a whale.
Again, I have to remind myself I’m in Japan as we zip through pristine, clear blue water to enjoy world-class views of Omi Island and its surrounds.
Our accommodation for the night is at Ryokan Gyokusenkaku, a modern inn that overlooks the historical onsen town of Nagato Yumoto.
“Each hotel represents the culture and histories of each region, every ryokan is very unique,” the beaming inn owner explains.
Yumoto is as charming as it is spectacular, split in two by a river that weaves through the centre of the village with trendy bakeries and restaurants lining the banks.
I’m told Nagato is famous for two things: onsens and yakitori chicken, so we head off to a local restaurant named Koumori which immediately becomes the highlight of my trip.
Three generations of the Ofuka family are working side-by-side to serve up a selection of perfectly seasoned meat skewers that are out of this world good.
The husband is seemingly in charge of free-pouring shots of foreign liquor and cracking a stand-up routine that has me in stitches, while the wife masterfully fans the charcoal flames.
The couple’s daughter pops out to say hello and speak to diners, while the family matriarch pitches in from the kitchen.
Day three
I expect to wake up with an aching back after sleeping on a futon spread across the ryokan’s tatami mat floor, but am surprisingly feeling fresh and ready for a final day of exploring.
First on the itinerary is Tsunoshima Bridge, which spans two kilometres and offers panoramic views of the island and subtropical beaches it slices in half.
Next up is Benten Pond, a strikingly beautiful spring with vivid cobalt-blue waters.
Crowds of locals and some out of town visitors patiently wait to fill up giant jugs with the calcium-rich spring water which remains at a perfect 14C all year-round.
After a few sips of life-altering h20 we’re off to our final destination: a sake brewery established in 1888 and operated by fifth-generation owner Takahiro Nagayama.
His entire operation is hidden behind the doors of a nondescript building surrounded by rice fields, which open up to a trendy factory and hipster coffee joint upstairs.
Nagayama, softly-spoken but clearly an astute businessman, reveals he ships 200,000 bottles of premium sake a year overseas with the US and Korea his top customers.
Two sips of sake and I’m off to the airport, questioning how long it will take for this hidden gem to become the next big thing for Aussies looking for a quick getaway.
This writer was hosted by Booking.com
