Complex hunt for that bargain

SHENZHEN is the new Hong Kong. What it lacks in cultural cachet, the world's latest shopping hot spot makes up for in what you can get for your cold, hard cash.

Retail riots ... if you thought Hong Kong shopping was bewildering, try Shenzhen. Picture: Michael Perini

SHENZHEN is the new Hong Kong. What it lacks in the former British colony's cachet, the world's latest shopping hot spot makes up for in what you can get for your cold, hard cash.

Trippers are making the short journey across to the nearest Chinese city of Shenzhen to shop till they drop.

Yet what should be an easy train or bus ride can take between one and two hours depending on the queues at the border between Hong Kong and mainland China, where grim-looking checkpoints recall the grey days of communism.

With few exceptions, you have to get out and queue to show your passport to leave Hong Kong, then again a few minutes later to get on to the mainland. But visas are easy to get from Chinese embassies in Australia or travel agencies in Hong Kong.

Most Hong Kong travel agencies can also set you up with special shopping trips, and there are some fledgling operators missing out Hong Kong altogether and taking parties of shoppers direct from Australia to Shenzhen.

Head for the Luohu complex close to the border crossing or what is known as The Station, above the main railway complex. It's bewildering: floors and floors of small shops.

A clampdown by authorities on fake goods means you have to ask for the "labels". Then, out they come from behind panels in the walls and ceilings.

The shopkeepers expect you to bargain, but usually double their starting price for foreigners, so don't just start at 50 per cent less – try 90 per cent.

Walk away if they don't come to the party; the moment they call you back, you know you can close the deal.

If you're into shoes, satisfy the Imelda in you by heading a little out of Shenzhen to Humin, where shoes are about $8 a pair at the factory shoe outlets.

Shenzhen is young and trendy – one of the world's fastest-growing cities – and the five-star hotels are trying to keep pace. After a tough day bargaining, what betteer way to relax than at a spa ... the best are the Queen's Spa and Huantong Spa.

There are also some great restaurants: try the Moi World Finance Centre in the Luohu district where there are upmarket Chinese and Japanese restaurants and one of the city's only western restaurants, the Polo.

A good night at the Polo, run by Australian Phil Player, can resemble the bar-room scene in Star Wars.

The Sunday Telegraph