Aloha to Lanai in Hawaii

SCOTT Podmore goes resort-hopping at a Hawaiian island with a harsh history and dramatic landscape.

Escape Four seasons

THE Doctor certainly wouldn't know what he was in for were he to land his TARDIS on Lanai at any given time in history.

Early on, evil spirits were said to rule the tiny Hawaiian island before nearby Maui's banished Prince Kaulalaau found a way to exorcise them. Fast-forward several thousand years and the Doc would have encountered fishermen and whalers holding fort along the coastline, or perhaps met disease-ridden missionaries who inadvertently wiped out most of the small population in the 1800s. 

Only last century, the TARDIS would likely have wedged itself in one of the world's largest pineapple plantations when the island's Polynesian ancestors arrived to work the fields. 

Mysterious, rugged and largely undeveloped, Lanai is the black sheep of Hawaii's band of islands, with a diverse and often harsh history crammed into its tiny 20km by 30km frame. It's the most un-Hawaiian island of them all, yet possibly the most interesting and has re-emerged in more recent times as a private island luxury resort destination. 

Two very different Four Seasons properties allow guests to "resort-hop" between the top of the island down to the bay. One, The Lodge at Koele, is sophisticated, stylish and surrounded by upcountry wilderness. The other is set on the white sandy shoreline of Hulopo'e Beach at Manele Bay. 

And therein lies the dilemma for any ambitious time traveller. Park the TARDIS there today and no doubt the good Doctor would be throwing away the key.

But rather than time travel, the more traditional method of reaching Lanai's shores is by ferry from the harbour in Lahaina, Maui. It's only a 45-minute trip and shortly after launching there were humpback whale blows galore, breaches and tail slaps in close and in the distance, while a pod of spinner dolphins materialised from waves like mermaids as we closed in on Lanai's shoreline. 

Greeting you upon arrival are towering, stark sea cliffs and close-up views of Pu'u Pehe, also known as Sweetheart Rock a hot spot for romantics and one of Lanai's most famous natural landmarks and the oceanfront grandeur of Four Seasons Resort Lanai at Manele Bay. 

Having to cast aside the lure of a first-up stay at the beachside resort option until later in the week, I headed straight for the top of the mountain to The Lodge at Koele, a 20-minute courtesy bus ride almost 500m above sea level and about 10C cooler than its sister resort down by the bay.

Sweeping seascapes gradually disappear out of view before giant Cook Island and Norfolk pines define the fresh upcountry air and line the expansive gardens of The Lodge, which include bamboo, palm and fruit trees through hectares of verdant countryside. It's a piece of paradise equally appreciated by the resident horses grazing at Koele while teams of turkeys, the occasional axis deer, pheasants, quail and Mouflin sheep provide some wildlife sightings and sounds in and around all the greenery. 

Step inside The Lodge and its opulence and size is dazzling. A giant veranda houses comfy lounge chairs to catch a sunset or a misty morning, while floor-to-ceiling flagstone fireplaces are centrepieces in the Great Hall where walls are adorned by European and Asian art pieces.

For those who dare to dabble in a little high society, try a mango tea and three-tiered plate of sandwiches, scones and sweets. Otherwise (ahem) less refined folk (that would be me) may prefer kicking back with a cold Hawaiian beer or Mai Tai in hand while checking out the music room or more casual The Bar adjoining the veranda. 

The food here matches the decor high-end and meticulously laboured over from scratch, whether European-infused American feasts fit for a king in the lavish Dining Room and less formal but no less stylish Terrace, or some rustic Hawaiian ingredients ingrained in delicious pupus offered all day long in either The Bar or Great Hall. For continuity, that food quality carries all the way down the mountain to the Manele Bay resort, too. 

When it comes time to call it a night, more than 100 luxurious, warm and vibrant rooms and suites each offer a private lanai (balcony) and colourful tropical-inspired decor, fireplaces and hand-picked artwork to match, while the accommodation in Manele Bay is different again: think the same level of comfort and style, but with East Asian influences, lighter rooms and with sea breezes, ocean views and tiki fire torches throwing a soft glow around the resort's facilities. Manele is also home to the island's only spa, a peaceful retreat where you can surrender to a little pampering, Hawaiian-style. 

Possibly the most difficult thing to do during a stay at either Four Seasons resort is prise yourself away to explore. But that's a must given what's on offer outside, starting with golf courses at both.

The Experience at Koele is set amid highland terrain with mountains and lush greens, wooded slopes, manicured bunkers and terrace water hazards, while The Challenge at Manele Bay is built on lava outcrops high above the crashing surf of Hulopo'e Bay with three holes set on cliffs which use the Pacific Ocean as a water hazard so pack plenty of extra balls. 

Wander yonder upcountry at Koele and the cooler climate provides an entirely different vibe for adventure. Four-wheel driving is popular for exploring the rugged terrain right up to the Garden of the Gods a lunar landscape that presents like an otherworldly natural rock garden and there are plenty of hiking tracks, forest walks, mighty Munro Trail and the opportunity to go clay target shooting, take in a spot of archery, a UTV adventure or horse riding. 

Though Manele Bay resort is only 20 minutes away, it's a lot warmer. There's also the big drawcard the beach. That also means you can surf, paddle board, take a snorkel/sail cruise to coral gardens where colourful tropical fish and other sea creatures drift near Hulopo'e Beach, or take a stroll out to Sweetheart Rock and spot some whales. 

Ruggedly beautiful with distinctive natural charms and hectic history, Lanai is a peaceful home to two resorts that seamlessly integrate two very different worlds of experiences complemented by high-end accommodation and hospitality. 

For a time traveller, it's a gamble. It will either send them packing or staying put. 

The author was a guest of Hawaii Tourism and Hawaiian Airlines.

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LANAI

Getting there

Lanai is the central island in Hawaii, just off Maui, and accessible by Island Air (islandair.com) or by ferry from Maui at the Lahaina.
Hawaiian Airlines offers daily nonstop Airbus A330 flights from Sydney to Honolulu, departing mid-evening, crossing the international dateline, and arriving mid-morning the same day, a flight time of about 10 hours.

From Honolulu, Hawaiian offers frequent flights to the neighbouring islands of Maui, Kauai and Hawaii Island, and 10 US mainland destinations.
Call Hawaiian's toll free number on 1300 669 106, contact your AFTA travel agent or visit hawaiianairlines.com.au

Staying there

Four Seasons Resort Lanai, The Lodge at Koele, visit fourseasons.com/koele, rates range from $310 to $1500 a night, and Four Seasons Resort at Manele Bay visit fourseasons.com/manelebay, rates range from $395 to $6550.

More: Visit gohawaii.com/au