All aboard the Orient Express

A ROMANTIC and dreamy rail journey harking back to the golden age of travel convinces Shaney Hudson it is the travelling - not the destination - that matters.

Orient express escape 24

A SINGLE-stem purple orchid sits by the window of our private cabin.

As the train arcs around the mountains and through the valleys, it acts like a floral compass, spinning around in its silver vase. A newspaper with headlines full of bad news lies next to it. 

Just for today, I've decided to give myself over to the simplicity of this experience the spring sunshine and mountain scenery, the gentle drumming rhythm of the train, and the dignity of this journey. The rest of the world can wait. I'm on board the Venice Simplon Orient Express, and I want to savour every moment.

The lovingly restored Art Deco carriages of the VSOE are one of the last remaining links to the golden age of travel. While the classic train journey from London to Venice reached the height of its popularity in the inter-war period (before speed and economy overtook comfort and style as the priorities of the travelling public) the journey remains as popular as ever, with some routes on the exclusive luxury train booked out for journeys until 2014.

I was undertaking the signature European journey from London to Venice. We'd spent the morning travelling from London to Folkestone on the luxury British Pullman train, then the afternoon being transferred by luxury coach through the Chunnel to meet the train in Calais.

It is here, when we step aboard the gilded carriages of the Venice Simplon Orient Express, that the real journey begins.

Our luggage is waiting in our private cabin, which consists of a wide plush couch with a small side table and Tiffany lamp. The lacquer on the inlaid wood glows under the gentle light of the Art Deco light fixtures. In the corner a small wardrobe contains a sink, mirror and towels.

As the whistle blows and the train begins to depart, the wide windows demand my attention. Forget returning your tray tables to the upright position.

Using the wooden crank, I wind down the glass and stick my head out of the train, watching the blue carriages with gold trim curve around the rails as we depart for Venice.

The centre of the train's social life is the bar car, where men in tuxedos hold tumblers of whisky, women in elegant gowns sip cocktails and a baby grand piano dominates the carriage.

"This is the 1920s prohibition, so the train is full of Americans who need a drink," Walter, the head barman, tells me as he pours me his signature cocktail, the Agatha Christie, made with one ingredient from every country along the Orient Express route from Paris to Istanbul.

Its the first trip of the season for the VSOE and, as I'm finishing my Agatha Christie, Walter points out the tip of the Eiffel Tower to the two new waiters as the train pulls into Paris. I sneak a little peek in as well.

There are three dining cars on the train, where menus and plates match the marquetry and design of the individual carriages. Waiters expertly manoeuvre through the shifting carriages to deliver us an entree of pan-sauteed bass dressed with truffle followed by a roast fillet of beef with green asparagus main.

Between the selection of cheeses and the dark chocolate cake with lightly salted caramel sauce the head chef quietly treads the dining car to check on each table, not blinking when a German tourist mistakes him for a waiter and thrusts a camera in his hand.

After nibbling on a plate of petit fours, we retire for the evening. On the way back to our carriage, my fiance spies a few coals on the floor and discovers one of the train's secrets. The attendant shows us the two fires burning at the end of every carriage; a wood fire burning to heat the water in our sinks and a coal boiler to heat the cabins at night, the same way they would have been heated 80 years ago.

During dinner our couchette has been tidied and transformed into two bunk beds, with a tin of French pastilles left on our pillow. Although bunk beds are not considered the height of luxury in some circles, they turn out to be surprisingly romantic and we're comfortably wrapped in a cocoon of wool blankets.

We fall asleep just outside Paris and wake up to the mountains of Switzerland. The sight of the mountain scenery is better than a cup of strong coffee we're wide awake within seconds, lying on bellies in our bunks, faces pressed against the window, enchanted with the view. Our attendant returns our cabin to couchette form and a breakfast of pastries, fresh fruit salad and cheese is served in our cabin.

Once I'm settled with a cup of tea and pastry in hand, I'm convinced this is the only way to travel.

It's the first journey of the season, and we're taking the Alberg Pass route, following the journey on the glossy map provided in our cabin.

There's a particular peacefulness that settles on the train this morning. With no electrical plugs, mobile phone and computer batteries have died overnight, and everyone on board seems to have relaxed into the rocking motion of the train.

We stretch our legs on the platform as the train stops in Innsbruck and feast on a lunch of chicken, bream and moreish raspberry macaroons, but it is the time spent in the privacy of our cabin, watching the terrain slowly change as the train moves south towards Italy that we value most.

At sunset, the blue carriages stretch across the water to Venice, the grand finale of a timeless journey. Heads poke out windows, people cluster in the hall to glimpse Venice in all its glory. Swept up in nostalgia and thoroughly indulged, I loathe leaving the train. However beautiful Venice may be and what adventures await outside of Santa Lucia station, for the moment I'm utterly convinced it is the journey, and not the destination that matters. 

The writer travelled as a guest of the Orient Express.

Go2

- Getting there

Several airlines, including Qantas, Virgin Atlantic, British Airways and Emirates fly from Sydney to London.

- On the train

A double cabin on the VSOE from London to Venice (and Venice to London) costs from $3820 a person, twin share, in a double cabin including all meals and entertainment; alcohol excluded. Venice to Paris is $3200.
See orient-express.com or ph 1800 000 395.

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