Woody Bay in Bundjalung National Park is being swept away

IF YOU'RE travelling the NSW north coast, stop for a while in Bundjalung National Park - and enjoy it while you can, says Brian Johnston.

Sunset on the Clarence River Picture: Supplied

"GO NOW before it's ruined" is one of the cliches of the tourist trade, but at Woody Bay in northern NSW, you'd better believe it.

Here, one of the fastest-eroding beaches in the state retreats by about 2m every year under the onslaught of big waves and strong currents.

Artificial dunes planted with wattle, banksia and she-oaks have slowed erosion considerably along part of the beach.

Nevertheless, it will likely all be gone by 2025.

So when I trundle into Woody Head campground in my Britz campervan, I feel I've arrived somewhere special.

Future generations will definitely not be enjoying this.

That's a pity, because there's so very much to enjoy at this spot on borrowed time.

I pull up at a campsite with ocean views and, before long, have pork chops browning on my pullout gas barbecue, and a beer pulled from my fridge.

As the sun drops, the sky turns purple and I'm lulled by the sound of kids calling out on the headland's rock platforms.

Such simple pleasures and tranquil moments are what travelling the NSW coast by campervan is all about.

Over the next couple of days, I find Woody Head a beaut place to while away the time.

There are good spots for safe swimming and fishing, some well-positioned picnic tables for lazy lunches, and a little kiosk that keeps me supplied with basic foodstuffs.

True, there are no powered campsites and hot water in the amenities block is time-limited, but it's hard to complain. After all, a three-minute shower is more than most of the world enjoys, and my campervan is a luxe retreat with ocean views and a surprisingly spacious bed.

And, while the waves might wash the campsite away in due course, meanwhile they provide a pleasant background noise that lulls me into sleep.

It's a sleep further encouraged by fresh air and plenty of exercise.

Woody Head is part of Bundjalung National Park, which stretches between Yamba and Evans Head and encompasses a diverse environment of beaches, heathland, mangrove flats, freshwater lagoons and rocky headlands. As well as many walking tracks, the national park allows four-wheel driving on some of its beaches, kayaking on the Esk River and recreational fishing.

Because Bundjalung has only a few, unconnected access roads leading off the Pacific Highway, visitors usually only experience one section of the elongated park.

For me, Woody Head is the best place to set up camp, and not just for its setting.

It's a short drive to Iluka, a sleepy little village where I walk along the Clarence River and indulge in freshly caught oysters and prawns.

Sunset on the Clarence River Picture: Supplied

Iluka Nature Reserve preserves the largest remaining stand of rainforest on the NSW coast. An easy walk to Iluka Bluff takes me through remarkable stands of lilly pilly and strangler figs, before arriving at Iluka Bluff.

Surf booms at the bottom of the cliffs and there are sweeping views along the coast.

It's a shame I have to drive onwards the next day, but more adventures await.

If I decide to return, I'd better make it soon because, like a pop-up restaurant, Woody Bay will be gone, leaving only fond memories.

Brian Johnston was a guest of Legendary Pacific Coast and Britz Campervans. Follow his travel blog at www.thoughtfultravelwriter.com

Go2 - Bundjalung National Park

GETTING THERE

Bundjalung is just north of Iluka and 60km south of Ballina. Virgin Australia flies to Ballina/Byron, ph 13 67 89.

GETTING AROUND

Britz Campervans has a wide range of motorhomes and campervans for hire, allowing you to explore the NSW North Coast at leisure and on a budget. Ph 1800 331 454.

STAYING THERE

Bundjalung National Park's Woody Head campground has tent, campervan and caravan sites from $28 and cabins for 4-6 people from $90. Visit nationalparks.nsw.gov.au

More: pacificcoast.com.au