Tasmania's Wineglass Bay full of wilderness

A TREK into an unspoilt corner of Tasmanian wilderness leaves Mike Smith spellbound, but a gourmet lunch with unbeatable views helps him recover.

Beach/Tourism Tasmania,Garry Moore

IT seems appropriate that in an unspoilt corner of Tasmanian wilderness the mountain range is The Hazards.

Dominating the northern reaches of scenic Freycinet National Park, the range with the rugged rocky exterior commands respect.

It may be dwarfed by peaks in more isolated areas of the Apple Isle, but it has its share of long and steep climbs, tough enough to have bushwalkers puffing.

Combine the inclines with unexpected, unforgiving changes in weather, and plenty of care is needed. A calm, sunny morning can quickly turn into a blustery, wet afternoon, as many trekkers warn.

"If you don't like the weather here, come back in half an hour," laughs Hobart-based tour guide Ian Byers, referring to the island's reputation to turn on four seasons in one day. In the same breath, though, Ian describes rain in Tasmania as "liquid gold".

Contrary to belief, The Hazards, which are made up of five distinctive craggy granite peaks, was named after an American captain Richard Hazard who was whaling in the area in the 1800s, and not for their rugged characteristics.

For serious walkers staying at the eco-friendly Freycinet Lodge – it sits at the foot of The Hazards – the climb of 454m Mount Amos, the second-highest peak in the range, is one that genuinely calls for a reasonable level of fitness.

For other, more discerning walkers who want to stretch the legs and combine an outing with some sightseeing and a slice of indulgence, there's the tantalisingly attractive "Wineglass to Wine Glass" guided walk that whets the appetite.

The track, which has been upgraded recently, begins with a steady ascent to a saddle that divides Mount Amos and 415m-high Mount Mayson.

From a lookout on the saddle, about 220m above sea level, we are rewarded for our exhaustive efforts with a breathtaking initial sighting of curved Wineglass Bay and the pure white sand that fronts turquoise waters.

(The bay, named by Frommers guides in the US as one of the top 10 favourite beaches in the world, resembles a large wineglass).

Beyond are the deep blues of a broader Thouin Bay and an even more expansive Tasman Sea.

Despite an early morning wake-up call, we find that by the time we reach the beach (about an hour) we are not the first to plant footprints in the sand.

After a 15-minute coffee break we resume the walk along the connecting Isthmus Track, a flat trail that cuts through bushland and past a lagoon that's divided in two sections.

Black cockatoos and other fascinating birds fly overhead as jets of light pierce the canopy of trees.

The track is relatively flat and protected, linking Wineglass Bay on the east with the equally white bleached sands of deserted Hazards Beach and the protected waters of Promise Bay to the west.

As we amble slowly along the water's edge of Hazards Beach we come across a sprinkling of starfish and shells of different shapes and sizes.

By now we are walking barefoot, splashing the feet in the cooling waters while learning more about the area from the enthusiastic guide Tara Larby.

There are 10 sandy beaches scattered along the fringes of the 17,000ha peninsula, and Hazards Beach is among the magical spots to walk, swim or launch a canoe for a paddle. We all agree that the beach's beauty is matched only by its deserted, tranquil surrounds.

It's appropriate that the larger bay fronting the beach is named Great Oyster as up ahead, on a raised timber platform, a delicious lunch awaits.

Chefs from the lodge have arrived early to prepare a few seafood delicacies – locally caught crayfish, mussels, clams, abalone and, yes, plates of oysters.

Sheer indulgence – a lavish feast complemented by premium wines from such nearby wineries as Freycinet Vineyard, Spring Vale and Apsley Gorge.

After an hour or two relaxing under a large umbrella sampling the many dishes, we reluctantly walk down a hill to an awaiting boat to be whisked back to the lodge, the spray in our faces.

Whether guests visit in summer or winter, Freycinet Lodge with its 60 tastefully furnished and decorated one- and two-bedroom cabins "co-existing in harmony with the bush", is a magnet for travellers who want to experience another side to Tasmania's wilderness.

Because the four-star retreat sits inside the national park's boundaries along the east coast, a vehicle fee is required for stays. But you soon realise it's money well spent.

"A world of hidden comfort," is how the people of Pure Tasmania describe their holidaying jewel. "Living proof that communing with nature does not have to mean roughing it."

The writer was a guest of Pure Tasmania, staying at Freycinet Lodge.

The Sunday Telegraph