Wine getaway in the Hunter Valley

BRIAN Johnston samples dishes and wine at the new Lindeman's cafe and cellar door in the Hunter Valley.

Escape Lindemans Hunter

AS YOU sit in the Hunter Valley sun and tuck into roast lamb accompanied by a fine glass of cabernet, spare a thought for Eliza Lindeman.

It's unlikely Eliza had much time to enjoy similar relaxing moments with a wine produced by husband, Henry, in the 1840s.

The Lindeman family matriarch was instead looking after their 10 children, five boys and five girls.

Three of the sons took over the business in 1912 and, to mark the 100th anniversary, Lindeman's has produced a range of wines called Eliza's Ten, named after each of the Lindeman children.

At the cellar door you can taste a drop of Mary's merlot or Herbert's pinot grigio and admire the jaunty labels of other sons and daughters.

After moving on to Lillian and Louisa, it might be time to take a break and wander over to the stillhouse, where brandy spirits were once distilled.

The old copper still is impressive and you can consult the Lindeman family tree on the wall.

The emphasis on family tradition isn't quite reflected in reality, as Lindeman's is now a public company and no longer actually makes wine in the Hunter Valley, though it still grows grapes here.

However, a wall display of old bottles demonstrates a long Hunter Valley history and changing fashions in wine labels through the decades.

The oldest bottle is a 1919 Cawarra riesling. A reserve burgundy from 1963, whose label depicts the cellar door, shows how little the buildings have changed in 50 years.

Inside, though, the cellar door has just been revamped and a cafe opened. The 1843 Harvest Cafe is named for the year Henry Lindeman first planted his grapes in the Hunter Valley.

Chef Craig Parkinson did his apprenticeship in the Hunter and worked at several of its iconic restaurants before taking over here in February.

He believes in hearty, wholesome comfort food, fresh local produce and a good glass of wine, which is exactly what you get at Harvest Cafe.

Start off with some bread and delicious dukkah, whose various varieties you can also taste at the cellar door and buy in the shop.

For an accompaniment to wine tasting, create a cheese plate from a choice of four cheeses, along with crackers, wafers, quince and fresh fruit.

But time your visit for lunch if you can. The cafe serves the likes of nachos and chicken enchiladas, but the main focus is on gourmet pizzas.

The fig and prosciutto pizza with caramelised onion and fetta is a delicious combination of sweet and salty. Pizza with field mushrooms, streaky bacon, roast garlic and ricotta is another hit.

Sadly, you may be too full for dessert, but coffee nibbles will allow you a modest cannoli or square of nougat.

If you want a more extravagant meal, the Ultimate Indulgence provides four courses and matching wines for $55, though you'll need to reserve in advance.

That's when you'll get your roast lamb, along with courses of pan-seared scallop with gazpacho, and a tomato-and-fetta herb tart with truffle oil.

Finish off with a pannacotta made from dark chocolate and Turkish delight, matched with a Lindeman's NV Muscat.

If you're sitting at the new outdoor dining area, a sweep of vineyards rises around you. It's one of the best views in the Hunter. Lunch here is a lovely indulgence and a good excuse to head out to the Hunter Valley for a revisit.

Ten children? I don't think so.

Frankly, Eliza, I'd rather be sipping some shiraz.

* The writer visited as a guest of Lindeman's.