Up the creek for fabulous paddle in Kangaroo Valley

THIS region is associated with indolent country retreats, but Brian Johnston finds kayaking a more active appreciation of a beautiful destination.

Kangaroo Valley inn

THE Kangaroo River starts in the gurgle of a little stream, glinting through tumbled boulders before emerging among lush green pastures.

It slides past tranquil countryside where fat cows stand in the shallows, and the only sound is a screech of cockatoos flying overhead.

It's the sort of lovely pastoral scene for which Kangaroo Valley is well known but, if you're after a more active getaway, Hampden Bridge is where the river really gets interesting.

The historic suspension bridge is the start of the valley's most popular paddle, a 5km (two-hour) kayak downstream, with four sets of gentle rapids to add excitement.

The river takes you through shaded gorges where gang-gangs and king parrots flit in the trees, and the occasional lyrebird prances in the undergrowth.

When you arrive at Bendeela picnic area (a beaut spot for some kangaroo-spotting), Dion Larkins of the Kangaroo Valley Adventure Company will pick you up and take you back to your starting point.

While this is the most obvious kayaking opportunity in Kangaroo Valley, there are even better paddles if you head along Mt Scanzi Rd.

By the time you get to Tallowa Dam, rolling dairy fields have disappeared and the rugged bushland of Morton National Park takes over.

If you're keen on fishing, kayak back upstream towards the valley, where you can drop a line for bass or perch along peaceful side arms of the river.

In the opposite direction, you can paddle for kilometres up Lake Yarrunga, created by Tallowa Dam.

It's more a wide sluggish river than a lake, winding through the Shoalhaven Gorge and recognised as one of Australia's best flat-water kayaking destinations.

It's rare to get water access to any national park, but here you have 80km of pristine river system to explore.

Even Larkins, who runs the kayaking company, still seems gob-smacked by the scenery and the flap of bird wings over water.

"Paddling might be a simple pleasure, but it's one of the best things in the world," he says contentedly, as pelicans gape and wispy waterfalls drift off the edge of the escarpment above.

A morning's excursion is enough to admire the splendid scenery, but you can also aim for a multi-day camping adventure deep into Morton National Park.

"Just be aware that there are only limited flat camping spots, starting around the 10km mark from the dam - and they fill up quickly at weekends," Larkins warns.

Another alternative from Kangaroo Valley Adventure Company allows you to carry your kayak below the dam and do a day-long, self-guided paddle 5km downstream.

The adventurous can extend it into a three-day camping adventure that leads you all the way to the coast.

Those wanting to enjoy a casual paddle rather than a challenge, however, will be satisfied with heading back to Kangaroo Valley village for a well-earned lunch at the Friendly Inn.

The pub, which dates back to the 1890s, has long been a valley favourite for its beer garden out the back, where you can gaze over the green valley to the purple escarpment behind. Reward yourself with a generous serving of good pub food such as schnitzels, burgers or grilled meat, accompanied by a beer or Apple Thief cider.

And don't worry about the calories. With all that kayaking, you've surely earned them.

Brian Johnston was a guest of Kangaroo Valley Tourist Association.
Follow his travel blog.

Go2 - KANGAROO VALLEY

Getting there: Kangaroo Valley is 2 1/2 hours from Sydney. Either follow the Princes Highway south to Berry before turning off to the valley or take the M5 east to the Mittagong exit and travel via Bowral and Fitzroy Falls.

Staying there: Luxury Heavens Mountain Escape offers one-bedroom and two-bedroom cottages with full kitchens in a beautiful setting. Ph 4465 1400.

Glenmark Park offers unpowered and powered campsites, as well as cabins, in the heart of Kangaroo Valley village. Ph 4465 1372.

Eating there: Friendly Inn Hotel in the village is a popular spot for pub meals and a drink. Ph 4465 1133.

Doing there: Kangaroo Valley Adventure Company, ph 4465 1372.

More: visitkangaroo valley.com.au, kvexplorer.com.au

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