Travel through the heart of Australia on The Ghan

A TRIP on The Ghan from Darwin to Adelaide is much more than just a journey between two cities, writes Christopher Russell.

ghan nitmiluk

PRECIOUS few things unite us as a nation - the love of a sunburnt country; the smug satisfaction of an Ashes win; the scent of gum trees after a nourishing rain.

It's the natural consequence of living on this big continent - from the steamy green northern tropics to the heaving swells of the Southern Ocean where icy winds come whipping in.

But sometimes a nation is like a family where a moment transcends the differences and brings us closer together. One such experience is riding The Ghan, that great rail journey that snakes its way 2979km through the Outback linking the frontier town of Darwin with that hallmark of southern heritage, Adelaide.

"This is a wonderful way to get in touch with who we are," says singer James Blundell who was on board The Ghan as it trundled southwards on a special Anzac tribute trip last month.

Celebrating its 10th anniversary in February next year, The Ghan is expanding its offering and enriching the experience. Already known for its food and service, The Ghan gold and platinum-class tickets now include on-board drinks and a range of whistle-stop tours at Alice Springs and Katherine. It's part of a change in strategy to make guests feel more comfortable and to show that a trip on The Ghan is a journey in life not simply a nice way to travel from A to B.

"There's something good about being on holiday and not having to pull out your wallet all the time," Steve Kernaghan, sales director of Ghan operator Great Southern Rail, says. "There are no worries, you want an extra glass? - no problem."

The on-board staff hospitality attendants, who do everything from waking you with a cup of tea to serving meals and making your bed on the three-day, two-night trip, say the change that began in April has had an immediate effect.

Instead of retiring to their cabins after lunch, guests now stay on in the train's Outback Explorer Lounge carriages, lingering to swap a few yarns as the ever-changing landscape drifts slowly by.

Guests are offered an impressive range of drinks.

Good quality wines, premium beers, a suite of base spirits and soft drinks. The wines are sourced in a way that aims to enhance the feeling of travelling through regional Australia.

"I give wine companies a map of where the train goes and draw a corridor around that. We try to get wine from vineyards within that corridor," food and beverage manager Bradley Kerkman says. "There's a bit of artistic licence because there aren't too many wineries north of Alice Springs. So we mainly pick up wines from South Australia but influence that with some of the best from WA and the other states."

The concept of regionality comes through even more strongly in the food menu.

"We focus on products that are uniquely Australian, high quality and can be found close to the train," Kerkman says. "One of our best products are racks of dorper lamb from Spear Creek, which is about an hour out from Port Augusta." There's plenty of choice on the menu. Angus beef from the Coorong in South Australia, pork from Murray Bridge or Gippsland, king prawns from Spencer Gulf and barramundi from the Northern Territory. Vegetarian options include Woodside cheeses.

The menu aims to challenge palates with Australian flair without being overwhelming. Chef Andrew Fielke, a pioneer of innovation with native Australian foods, provides advice and some of the courses.

It's a far cry from the original Ghan that steamed its way from Adelaide to Alice Springs, staff armed with rifles so they could supplement the larder with the occasional feral goat.

After dinner one night Blundell is singing to the guests in the lounge car. In the middle of a song a young man in a red shirt enters the carriage, at which point about half the audience spontaneously begins clapping. No, not a mystery musician. It is "Bruce", a hospitality attendant who's finished his shift, swapped his uniform for civvies and come to join the guests.

"He just loves his job," says one traveller as Bruce works the room, shaking hands, slapping backs and checking his guests are enjoying the show.

The whistle-stop excursions in Alice Springs and Katherine are an integral part of the journey that lets guests feel the Outback. In Katherine, there's a boat tour through the rugged grandeur of Katherine Gorge run by Aboriginal enterprise Nitmiluk.

Nitmiluk puts on tours exclusive to Ghan travellers, including viewing 10,000-year-old rock paintings. They provide morning or afternoon tea with a bush tucker flavour - including crocodile soup and camel kebabs.

In Alice Springs there's a choice between exploring the sights of the town such as the Reptile Centre and the Royal Flying Doctor base, visiting the Desert Park or taking a ride through the bush with Pyndan Camel Tracks. Helicopter flights are available at additional cost.

Out of the heat, it's back to relaxing on the train. Travellers can sit in airconditioned comfort in their cabins as the kilometres steadily tick over. The cabins are compact but quite manageable. Gold twin and Platinum have en-suite toilet and shower.

And Bruce? Well, actually his name is Muhammad. And, like many of the original Afghans who drove their camels across central Australia's deserts, he's from Pakistan. A civil engineer, he took up hospitality to support himself at uni and found he had a natural talent for working with people.

The writer was a guest of Great Southern Rail.

Go2 - THE TRIP

The Ghan travels once a week in each direction and twice a week in the June-August peak.

Basic fares, a person one way: Platinum class $3390. Gold twin $2290, Gold single $2061. Includes meals, drinks, basic excursions.

Discounts on some fares for pensioner, student, child, etc.

Discounts of up to 20 per cent on Gold Service now available.

Red Service $862. Reclining seat (no cabin), no off-train excursion tours, meals/drinks to purchase from cafe car.

See greatsouthernrail.com.au, ph 1800 703 357.

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