Tourist trails, foodie finds, galleries and cellar doors in Clare Valley

TAKE to a bike to burn off the wonderful food and drink you'll encounter on a journey through the delightful Clare Valley, writes Scott Podmore.

Skillogalee House at Sunset Picture: Supplied

Best for tourist trails

Famous for its vineyards, mining history, cafes and galleries, Clare Valley also has some of the best tourist trails in the world in the Riesling and Rattler Trails, which take in vineyards and farmland views and historic stop-off points along the way.

The Riesling Trail's 25km-30km of loops is best explored by jumping on a bike and setting off on a two-day self-guided tour through Tour De Vines, who supply maps and bookings, so the planning process is sorted before you even think about pushing those pedals. It all begins with a morning coffee at Cogwebs Cafe as you collect your hired bike and helmet and hit the dirt trail for a journey that includes two nights' accommodation with breakfasts, eight wineries, two cellar door gourmet lunches, support vehicle, luggage transport and collection of gourmet purchases.

"Riding a bike through beautiful vineyards and wineries, enjoying great local food and wine - it's not a bad mix, is it," Tour de Vines' Damian Cerini says as we work our way up a gentle gradient (the return trip is all downhill) while taking in valley views. "Combine that with some gentle exercise while you breathe in some fresh country air and it's a terrific way to explore a wonderful part of the Clare Valley."

The Riesling Trail is built on the old rail line and is well signposted for walkers and cyclists between Auburn and Clare. Highlights include historical stops such as Horrocks' Tree, Sevenhill Cellars, the Little Red Grape complex, Annie's Lane and a tasty share plate and wine tasting experience at O'Leary Walker Wines.

"Being flat, it's a perfect region for visiting cellar doors on a bike," Cerini says. "It's all about having fun and enjoying Clare - better still, there's no Lycra required."

Best for foodies

There are two ways to discover Clare's gourmet delights. Firstly, you can sniff out the best eateries in the main villages, but here's a tip: look no further than the hearty fare whipped up by Nicola Palmer in the gorgeous rustic charms and country surrounds of Skillogalee Winery &Restaurant, otherwise loosen your belt and don't hold back on chef Charlie Corbo's offerings at Sevenhill Hotel for pub grub like no other.

Secondly, the local providores, meat suppliers and boutique olive oil and fruit preserve producers are some of South Australia's best-kept secrets. With Clare Valley's ample self-contained B&Bs comprising a kitchen at the ready, it's the perfect chance to cook up a storm using fresh, paddock-to-plate local fare.

Start in the main street of Clare where Wild Saffron not only serves the best coffee in town but also sells specialty gourmet treats such as cheeses, chutneys, jams, tapenades and chocolates. "It's a taste of Clare in here," proud owner Heather Pretlove says, as the locals line up to buy her homemade lasagnes and sushi.

Across the street there's a sign in front of Mathie's Meat Shoppe that reads "National Sausage King Champions 2011-12-13". Could the lure of the humble banger ever be more enticing?

With trophies falling off the shelf, the king himself Jason Mathie rolls out a big snag chain of his finest Saltbush Hogget sausages and points out: "It's the saltbush hogget meat that does the trick.

A lot of people staying at the B&Bs swing by to grab their goodies and polish it all off with a local riesling or shiraz, of course."

A short drive to Farrel Flat Rd leads to homely Evilo Estate where Debbie and Giulio Dichiera have an olive farm, fruit trees, homegrown vegetables and a boutique vineyard. A piece of paper on the wall in their tiny shop says it all: "We grow it, pick it, cook it, taste it, bottle it, label it, sell it - what could be better?"

See: clarevalleycuisine.com.au

Best for galleries

Generations of artists have been inspired by Clare's "vistas, communities and the rhythms of life on the land", and Tracy Vandepeer, Auburn resident artist and owner of Venturas Visions Gallery &Studio, couldn't agree more.

Vandepeer shows me through her gallery of impressive contemporary paintings and her more relaxed workshop out back.

"It's such a lovely area," she says. "And it's not always about the wine for a lot of visitors. I think it's good to also have a mix of food and the art as part of that culture. A lot of our great local art can be found in the wineries, too."

Irongate Studio Gallery in Mintaro is another one well worth visiting for art lovers and the Clare region is dotted with plenty more diversity: the wire mesh sculptures of Malcolm Craig Studio Barn in Kapunda, Jill Foster Pottery in Burra, Balaklava Courthouse Gallery's heritage meets art experience, and Medika Gallery in Blyth.

Skillogalee House at Sunset Picture: Supplied

Best for B&Bs

Clare Valley is famous for its wine, food and B&Bs, but Skillogalee, owned by Dave and Diana Palmer, has all three covered in the setting of an enchanted forest comprising rolling wooded hills, vineyard, cellar door and restaurant, and a gorgeous range of self-contained accommodation.

The flagship of the three B&Bs is Skillogalee House, a spacious stone farmhouse dating back to the early 1900s. For those wanting a step down for budget reasons and size, two purpose-built cottages called Owl Cottage and Wren Cottage will do the trick.

Owner Diana and daughter Nicola - the chef who cooks from the heart and dishes up unforgettable goodies in Skillogalee's restaurant - offer me a guided tour of their premier B&B.

"It's a luxury B&B but it's self-contained, so you have your privacy," Diana says.

Nicola chips in: "And it's unique in that it's set in a working vineyard. In vintage if we're harvesting, we also invite guests up in the middle of the night, we give them a hard hat and go out and have a look at the harvester."

The main house is stunning, with three bedrooms, two king-sized, and caters for up to six people. It's popular for groups and weddings. The main living area has an open fire, open-plan kitchen (stocked with generous breakfast provisions) and dining area, sitting rooms and an outdoor area with a table for eight to take in the views.

Best for cellar doors

Clare Valley has created wine ever since the Jesuits planted the area's first vines in the early 1850s, only a decade after Europeans settled in South Australia.

The Jesuits are still making sacramental wine at one of Australia's oldest wineries, Sevenhill, where religious buildings surround a cellar door, winery and lawn.

Swing down the road to O'Leary Walker Wines and you'll find the other end of the spectrum, a spacious modern building housing a cellar door that offers a contemporary design merged with ironstone, natural woods and timbers.

While it's a small region, there's plenty to explore.

But The Little Red Grape in Sevenhill is a great starting point, a cellar door showcasing several of Clare's best small to medium winemakers.

Pouring Wykari Wines riesling into a large glass, owner Dorham Pfeiffer is not only a walking, talking tourist information centre but also a top salesman.

The Little Red Grape is part of a complex Pfeiffer and his wife Emma own, which also includes one of the state's best little bakeries and an interiors and homewares shop.

The writer was a guest of South Australian Tourism Commission.

GO2 - CLARE VALLEY

Getting there

Virgin Australia operates more than 320 flights a week to and from Adelaide to seven domestic destinations and one international destination. These include Brisbane, Canberra, Melbourne, Gold Coast, Perth, Sydney and Denpasar (Bali). Visit virginaustralia.com

MAKE IT HAPPEN - THREE WAYS TO DO CLARE VALLEY

1. Budget

See: The meandering gorges of Red Banks Conservation Park near Burra are home to wildlife and are steeped in Aboriginal history.

Sleep: Set up camp at Discovery Holiday Park in Clare, set on 12ha of bushland with all the mod cons, jumping pillow, barbecues, heated pool and bike hire.

Eat: Cogwebs Cafe in Auburn is a little gem of a cafe with great coffee, food and terrific service and also offers bike hire.

Do: Sevenhill Producers Market on the last Saturday of the month for tasty bargains.

2. Mid-range

See: Try out the twists and turns that test the best of explorers at Mintaro Maze. Inside the shop are arts and crafts, puzzles and aromatherapy products.

Sleep: Clare Valley Motel has very reasonable prices and is excellent value with quality service and great-looking simple rooms.

Eat: Pub meals don't get much better than Sevenhill Hotel's as masterchef Charlie Corbo dishes up delights from tasty risotto balls to juicy Wagyu aged rump steak. The experience is complemented by a crackerjack rustic old cellar boasting a winner wine list.

Do: Set among woodlands, creeks, lakes and vineyards, and where some resident kangaroos hop by, Clare Golf Club is a beaut place to unwind.

3. Luxury

See: Martindale Hall. A Victorian-style mansion built in 1879 and which featured in Peter Weir's film Picnic At Hanging Rock.

Sleep: Opulent stone mansion North Bundaleer is set on 160ha of bush and farmland on the doorstep of the Outback. Go a step further and book the entire homestead for $3100.

Eat: Skillogalee Winery and Restaurant is a must-see for luxury hunters for more reasons than one (see main article). Seating 30 inside and 50 outside on the veranda and under the shade of an old olive tree, the venue overlooks a cottage garden and the vines and is open for scrumptious lunches every day.

Do: CMT Classic Motoring Tours offer a limousine-driven one-day tour personalised to suit your wants and needs.