Revealing the secret side of Margaret River

PEACEFUL Margaret River is enhanced by a diversity like no other region. Scott Podmore discovers its mosaic of forest, caves, vines and surf coast.

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PEACEFUL Margaret River is enhanced by a diversity like no other region. Scott Podmore discovers its mosaic of forest, caves, vines and surf coast.

Best for wineries

"This wine region has always commanded attention, and though we're not the biggest or oldest, we are one of the world's more progressive," says innovative winemaker Vanya Cullen of famous Cullen Wines in Wilyabrup.

The "queen" of Margaret River has just handed me the juiciest mulberry handpicked from her thriving garden on the property, which, after almost 50 years, now prides itself on a biodynamic and organic approach that's catching on.

Swing over to boutique Peacetree Estate and the feeling's mutual. "We're more about quality rather than quantity," says owner Jane Tucker, proud of an organic approach that aims to eliminate all the nasties.

"It's more work when you take this approach but you're looking after the health of the plants and soil and the people who drink it, of course."

Margaret River is famous for its consistency in cabernets, shiraz, chardonnay and semillon sauvignon blanc blends.

Old methods remain, but suddenly wine and food is being handled with extra care for paddock-to-plate perfection via more environmentally conscious methods.

While navigating the region's winding country roads by car, an endless supply of vineyard eye candy, and all that's alluring in between by way of chocolate factories, caves, beaches and trails, is always on show.

See margaretriver.com/what-to-do/2-wineries

Best for small luxury hotels

Cashed-up visitors to the region face the tough choice between two of the best, multi-award winning small luxury hotels on the planet within 10 minutes of each other. Looking for either high-end country escape in the forest or perhaps some beachfront bliss is more your thing?

Then say hello to Cape Lodge and Smiths Beach Resort and take your pick.

Cape Lodge is a prestigious venue with 22 rooms and suites, an executive five-bedroom house, all surrounded by a vineyard, enchanted bushland and lake. When not losing yourself in the grounds' gardens fit for a fairy, there's a tennis court and free-form swimming pool that may come in handy for burning those extra calories you're doomed to load up on at the venue's restaurant. Dynamo chef Tony Howell's offerings are melt-in-your-mouth world class, earning for Cape Lodge multiple "Best Food" awards on a global scale.

"It's the culture of hospitality at Cape Lodge that makes the difference," the lodge's Drew Bernhardt says. "Combine that with a tranquil vineyard country estate setting in the heart of one of the most beautiful wine regions, our amazing food and the pristine environment of the region that obviously makes our lodge a pretty special place."

Skip up Caves Rd a little and before long you'll float into another fantasy world, this one overlooking the Indian Ocean at Smiths Beach Resort. Think panoramic ocean views, one of the world's best surf beaches, with wineries, shops and attractions all nearby.

Best for breweries

"Look out for my little explosion," Eagle Bay Brewing Company's affable head brewer Nick d'Espeissis says as I step over a spill in the brewery he co-owns with siblings Adrian and Astrid.

The brewery is a new addition to the Eagle Bay family farm and vineyard that the trio's father, John, has worked since 1950.

It's modern with a relaxed restaurant vibe, great food and a 1000ml micro-brewery overlooking the farm and Indian Ocean.

Like a mad professor busy with his lab toys, d'Espeissis explains in scientific detail the reason behind some foam overflow on the ground and says the region's quality craft beers is a happening scene pushing the boundaries.

"I guess sometimes you try to squeeze a little bit more volume and a bit more body to see what you can get away with and obviously I cooked up a bit too much."

In a region famous for its wine, the past decade has seen several breweries sprout as the craft beer movement kicks in and attracts all types including families, beer lovers, grey nomads and young people. From tastings of ales, lagers and pilsners to Belgian IPAs, kolsch and apple ciders, the brewers around these parts take it mighty seriously, too.

"My drive is about making a good beer, that's what I'm concerned about," Jared Proudfoot, head brewer at Cheeky Monkey Brewery and Cidery, tells me during a tasting session. "And to see people enjoy it, and our facilities, that's rewarding, too."

Best for adventure

For the adventurous at heart there's stacks to do, from caving and mountain biking to horse riding and cultural tours, but one can't visit Margaret River and not factor in a day with Margaret River Discovery Company's Sean Blocksidge.

The former winemaker has a firm belief that "if you love what you do, you never work a day in your life" and weaves together a tour that links the best wines with the great outdoors. Refreshingly, he's open to veering off the beaten path, too.

"It's not so much a wine tour but we take a look at the geology and ecology of the region and relate it back to the wine and what makes our wine so special," Blocksidge says as we drift out in a canoe to paddle down the mirror-like Margaret River.

"It's about taking you behind the tourist facade, away from the masses and introducing you to people and places you won't find on your own."

The tour includes a 4WD journey through the bush, a stop at an ancient waterhole to view some marron, a gourmet lunch at a spectacular winery and a stroll out to the Willyabrup Cliffs on the Cape To Cape Track.

Best for foodies

One of the best things about following your nose in Margaret River country - quite literally - is the chance to stumble upon so many different food experiences, whether it's letting your senses loose in a chocolate factory such as Gabriel or the Margaret River Chocolate Company, an olive oil farm deli, tasting room and cafe at Olio Bello, or getting down to earth at a burgeoning yoga retreat called Samudra where you can explore the "superfood elixirs" of life at a funky vegetarian alfresco Kombi cafe serving hand-crafted nutritious meals from the garden out the back. Go easy on those green smoothies though.

Being a choc-a-holic myself, Gabriel Chocolate in Yallingup was a no-brainer for some free tasting of the day's fresh fine chocolate from cacao beans sourced from six regions of the world.

"We make all our chocolate from bean to bar using all natural ingredients," Gabriel says, while one of his assistants whips up a knockout hot chocolate. Gabriel roasts the cocoa, hand sorts, grinds, conchs, tempers and pours - in other words, he's creating the whole shebang and not just merely melting imported chocolate for blends or to enrobe other products.

It's no Willy Wonka set-up, but glass windows allow visitors to view the chocolate factory in action as the "food of the gods" is created and the shop sells all sorts of variations in neat little square bars.

So what's the secret to making delectable chocolate? "Good ingredients," Gabriel says, "And if you keep the chocolate-making process quite simple it's going to taste great."

The writer was a guest of Tourism Western Australia.

Go2 - MARGARET RIVER

Getting there: Virgin Australia flies direct to Perth from Darwin once daily, Brisbane and Sydney four times on a weekday and Melbourne five times on a weekday.

3 WAYS TO DO MARGARET RIVER

1. Budget

See: The Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse guided tour ($13 for adults, and $30 for family of four) and Maritime Museum reveal a fascinating history lesson with great views.

Sleep: Taunton Farm Holiday Park is a farm-themed caravan holiday park with no traffic noise and is close to everything. Powered sites from $39 and family cottages from $110.

Eat: Blue Ginger Fine Foods in Station St, Margaret River. Incredibly good value for sensational coffee and a beaut range of continental, Asian and wholefoods to stock up on.

Do: Fishing. An abundance of waterways means there's something for everyone.

2. Mid-range

See: Whale watching as the southern right and humpback whales make their annual pilgrimage to the waters off Cape Leeuwin between June and September and then up to Dunsborough from September to December.

Sleep: Riverglen Chalets has 14 self-contained chalets set on 2.8ha of bushland and gardens.

Eat: Driftwood Estate restaurant, Caves Rd, Wilyabrup, is open Thursday to Monday for dinner and has a winning two-course menu for $39.90.

Do: Koomal Dreaming with Josh Whiteland offers culture-based tours include bush tucker tastings, bush medicine talks and more.

3. Luxury

See: Christian Fletcher's galleries in Margaret River, Dunsborough and Mandurah feature the work of this world-class photographer.

Sleep: Injidup Spa Retreat has ocean views, 10 meticulously fitted out villas designed in a way to blend in with the environment, spa and more. Villas from $650 to $900, including bottle of wine and brekky hamper.

Eat: Lamont's, Smiths Beach Rd, Yallingup, has arguably the best food in the region, with fresh seafood and killer desserts.

Do: The "Ladies of Lifestyle Margaret River" drive you around in 1950s-style vehicles to prestigious wineries, creative outlets and secret locations.
 

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