Sydney's Harbour has so much to sea

SYDNEY has plenty of attractions to lure people in for a weekend, whether it's shopping or nightlife, special events or the big-city vibe.

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LOOKING for a fun family weekend on an ocean theme? Sydney's Darling Harbour will have you breaking out in sea shanties in no time, says Brian Johnston.

But only a yo-ho-ho from all the urban glamour, there's also family fun and relaxation of the sort that celebrates another of Sydney's assets, its harbour setting and watery heritage.

Start at a place that ought to keep the kids busy for a couple of hours or more.

The National Maritime Museum is one of the country's best museums of any sort.

Although it has everything from old pearling ships to a 1950s naval destroyer, its remit goes far beyond just ships to cover immigration, defence, trade and how the ocean is connected to the history of Australia's development.

It also goes a long way to explaining how oceans have influenced our entire culture in a nice reminder that we're islanders, even if our island is a big one.

Two highlights are floating on the waters of Darling Harbour outside.

Duyfken is one of the museum's newest attractions.

The replica of a 1606 Dutch East India Company sailing ship, Duyfken first brought Europeans to the shores of Australia in cramped conditions that you can explore by climbing down ladders, crouching in confined spaces and poking around the holds.

The ship is laid out and furnished as it would have been in the 17th century, and informed volunteers are on hand to answer questions.

Nearby is the HMAS Onslow, an Oberon-class submarine decommissioned in 1999 and still close to operational condition.

It's a rare peek into the secretive world of submarines and, once again, ex-submariners are on hand to answer questions and talk about life on board.

What it has in common with a Dutch sailing ship is cramped conditions. Sailors had to hot bunk, and a minuscule galley served meals for 64 crew members every day.

Fortunately these days you don't have to pick weevils out of your biscuits before dining at Darling Harbour, which has a huge range of eateries to suit all tastes.

Wander around the shoreline and settle into a terrace table at Nick's Seafood Restaurant, where you can watch yachts dropping anchor in the marina.

The restaurant specialises in local lobsters and Sydney rock oysters shucked to order, and Nick himself wanders about chatting to customers and keeping an eye on the service.

Many couples indulge in the wildly extravagant seafood platter for two. Other options include char-grilled baby octopus with a mango salsa, or fresh mussels in a tomato and chilli sauce, soaked up with hunks of bread.

To continue with the ocean theme, Sydney Aquarium should be next, particularly if it has been a while since you've walked through its underwater tunnels to admire manta rays, turtles and sharks.

A return visit is about reliving this old favourite but there are some new arrivals.

Two dugongs named Pig and Wuru are marvellous, cruising along like benevolent water cows, munching on the seagrass that is dropped in frames on to the floor of their enclosure to mimic natural conditions.

This is a rare sight indeed. These are the only captive dugongs in Australia, and among just a tiny handful worldwide.

Another fine way to spend the afternoon is on a Magistic Cruise that will take you beyond Darling Harbour to all the scenic delights of Sydney Harbour.

You can even do a lunch cruise if you fancy a sensational buffet and a glass of wine as the Opera House, harbourside mansions and islands float by.

Is it touristy? Of course. But sometimes you have to let your hair down and do touristy things.

After all, there's a reason people come from the far reaches of the Earth to admire our beautiful city. Get out and about and remind yourself how lucky you really are.

The writer was a guest of Accor Hotels and Sydney Harbour Foreshore Authority.