How Adelaide’s ‘Mad March’ season is making it Australia’s coolest city
This city is no longer the quiet achiever - it’s making plenty of noise from its electric night-life to world-class dining. Here’s how it is stealing Melbourne’s crown.
Let me set the scene: it’s early evening, midweek, and there’s a buzz in the air as I stroll through a vibrant inner-city food precinct.
Alfresco diners fill restaurants and bars, tables spilling onto the footpath as waiters weave through the crowd, delivering plates of fresh seafood and glasses of crisp local wine.
From a nearby bar, the soulful notes of a saxophone fill the air. Couples hold hands, swaying to the music.
It has all the charm and energy of Melbourne’s Fitzroy or St Kilda, but here’s the twist.
I’m not in either. I’m in Adelaide, a city that’s quietly stealing the spotlight.
For years, Adelaide has been dismissed as a smaller, quieter sibling to Melbourne.
But now? It’s leading the charge, while Melbourne, once Australia’s cultural capital, is struggling to keep up.
Could Adelaide be Australia’s ‘coolest’ destination?
US publication The Wall Street Journal, recently claimed that “Adelaide might secretly be Australia’s coolest city”.
They weren’t wrong. Growing up in Melbourne, I remember what it was like before the pandemic – fashionable, European, effortlessly cool. It’s still all those things but Adelaide is definitely catching up.
Sadly, in early 2025 alone, popular Melbourne venues have been shutting up shop. Enoteca Zingara, Gingerboy, The Quiet Man, and the beloved Eveleigh cocktail bar among those calling it a day.
Inflation, post-pandemic struggles, and declining foot traffic have hit hard, with reports suggesting up to 50 per cent fewer diners in some areas, and the hospitality industry at “crisis” point.
Meanwhile, Adelaide is thriving after upping its game.
During the March long weekend, the South Australian government reported hotel stays hit record highs, with 10,662 rooms booked, and a staggering 91 per cent occupancy rate, generating more than $6 million in revenue.
The reason? Adelaide’s unstoppable events calendar.
From WOMADelaide and Adelaide Festival to the Adelaide Motorsport Festival and the world-famous Adelaide Fringe, the city is bursting with life.
Adelaide is having its moment
“Mad March,” as the locals call it, is the city’s biggest cultural moment, featuring the Adelaide Festival, WOMADelaide, and the massive Adelaide Fringe, the largest arts festival in the Southern Hemisphere.
This year, more than 6,000 artists from across the world have descended on the city, bringing a mammoth 1,400 shows across 500 venues.
I’ve been to Stockholm Fringe, Edinburgh Fringe, and beyond, but right now, Adelaide has that same electric energy.
If you’re planning a visit, stay where the action is. Hotel Indigo is as cool as they come.
Colourful, hip, and incredibly stylish, with funky artworks, exposed archways, and sophisticated copper detailing.
Downstairs, Market & Meander Bar serves up an Italian-inspired menu worth lingering over, but my personal tip? Head to the Merrymaker rooftop bar for a cocktail and a breathtaking sunset view over the city.
Best of all? Adelaide is a place where you can also practically walk everywhere. Within 15 minutes, I’m at dinner, and trust me, this city knows how to eat.
‘A culinary playground’
Melbourne might claim to be Australia’s foodie capital, but Adelaide is proving it’s a culinary playground in its own right, with world-class chefs and a mouth-watering selection of cuisines.
Dinner at Leigh Street’s Shobosho is a theatrical experience in itself. The intimate Japanese restaurant is complete with traditional wood panelling, and an open kitchen which fires up sizzling, smoky dishes.
From silky salmon tataki, briny-fresh Smoky Bay oysters to perfectly charred broccolini, it’s hard to pick a favourite, but the star of the show, a melt-in-your-mouth wagyu rump, has been cooked to absolute perfection.
The next morning, I head to Part Time Lover, a hidden bistro with serious Melbourne cafe vibes. Think granite counters, lush greenery, and the kind of coffee that makes you want to stay all day.
Breakfast is pure indulgence, eggs on toast with whipped ricotta, salty prosciutto, and a drizzle of fiery chilli honey. Simple, yet unforgettable, and a mix of sweet and spicy flavours that both confuse and delight my tastebuds.
The (Adelaide) hills are alive
The Adelaide Hills are famed for their wineries but unlike Melbourne’s Yarra Valley (over an hour away), I can be there in just 15 minutes.
Today, though, I’m here to check out Panorama, a Fringe installation in the historic Sleeps Hill Tunnel, that’s returned for an encore after a stellar 2024 season.
Walking through the 377-metre passage, I watch as projections bring its history to life, from its early steam train days to its use as a wartime treasure vault, and its transformation into a mushroom farm.
It’s an unexpected gem, and one of the highlights of my trip. But it’s worked up an appetite for more food.
Lunch at Osteria Oggi in the city’s CBD is a love letter to Italian cuisine.
Handmade pasta, rich sauces, and a wine list that rivals the best in Melbourne.
If you go, order the Burrata (it comes with smoked tomato, white anchovies and basil) along with the Rye Pappardelle, which is made with a duck and porcini ragu.
Both are next-level.
Exploring Adelaide’s Central Market
After lunch, I wander through some of Adelaide’s charming laneways, full of murals and street art, before landing at the iconic Central Market.
It’s like Melbourne’s Queen Vic Market but more quaint, and even cooler.
Katina from Flamboyance Tours takes me on a sensory feast, trying out fresh local produce including artisan cheeses, empanadas, and Bung fritz, a smoky, German-inspired meat delicacy.
I’d never heard of it before, but I’m told it’s a South Australian speciality, and it’s weirdly delicious.
Life is but a dream
As the sun sets, I return to The Garden of Unearthly Delights for more Adelaide Fringe magic.
The happy vibe is palpable and it’s busy, with hundreds packing out the pop up bars, and walking in droves to upcoming shows.
This time, I make my way through Dream State, an immersive, surreal experience that quite literally feels like stepping into a dream.
Dinner tonight is on Rundle Street at Paper Tiger, where Southeast Asian street food gets a modern twist.
The neon-lit, Hong Kong-style of the restaurant adds a special energy to the space, making it the ideal spot for people watching.
The best part is the menu. Grilled scallops, charred eggplant, fragrant chicken curry, and an ice-cold King of the Jungle cocktail – the perfect way to end the night, and my time in Adelaide.
Watching the other diners around me deep in conversation, I have a realisation.
While it’s true that Adelaide is smaller than bigger cities like Melbourne, Adelaide is very happy doing its own thing.
Yes, Adelaide is far smaller than bigger cities like Melbourne, but no one really cares about that.
There’s something about Adelaide that’s unbothered and unpretentious that makes it undeniably cool – and because of this more tourists are gravitating towards the city.
A charming place with ‘exceptional’ experiences
Getting to Adelaide is a breeze, given the South Australian capital is one of Virgin Australia’s most popular domestic destinations.
“We currently operate 174 return services per week to Adelaide from Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne, Perth, Gold Coast, Canberra, Alice Springs, Cairns, Hobart and Launceston,” a Virgin Australia spokesperson told news.com.au.
“From Brisbane, Virgin Australia operates five return services a day, from Sydney there are six return services per day and from Melbourne, we operate ten return services per day. Our services from Cairns, Hobart and Launceston are subject to seasonality.
“Whether it’s exploring vibrant markets, savouring world-class wine and fresh local produce, or strolling through picturesque parks, it’s easy to see why our passengers love visiting Adelaide.
“With its seamless blend of nature, culture, and exceptional experiences, this charming city never fails to captivate.”
Adelaide’s ‘Mad March’ Festival Dates
The 2025 Adelaide Fringe Festival ends on Sunday March 23, 2025.
In 2026, WOMADelaide will be held from March 6 to 9. The Adelaide Festival will be held from February 27 to March 15, and the Adelaide Fringe will be held from February 21 to March 23.
This writer travelled to Adelaide as a guest of the South Australian Tourism Commission