Sipping from the Cowaramup cup

DRUNKEN marsupials, Australia's tallest mainland lighthouse and a golden cow await Melanie Kent on a rural retreat.

Escape Cowaramup, WA

I'VE heard of a Coke-drinking camel in north Queensland and beer-guzzling monkeys in Thailand but the story of Skippy the Moet-drinking kangaroo captures my imagination as we relax outside our villa at Merribrook Retreat in Cowaramup.

Apparently, the family pet had roamed the 65ha bushland estate in southwestern WA, accepting treats and biscuits from amused patrons. It is therefore not surprising, living in a region with more than 130 wineries, that this bounding connoisseur should develop a penchant for the sweet juice of the vine.

The story goes that a representative from Moet and Chandon was watching the robins, thornbills and wrens dance around Merribrook Lake, when Skippy downed his glass of bubbly.

Owners Richard and Lorraine Firth are quick to assure us Skippy has long since left the area but the tale is no doubt a great icebreaker with those who stay in one of the 10 luxury villas.

Developed in 1984 by the confessed hippies, who were in their 20s, the retreat is bounded by a nature trail, perfect for walking off the blurred vision and impaired co-ordination this region can engender in visitors.

Keeping an eye out for the big grey with a glint in his eye, we dawdle past a rainbow of wildflowers, several lakes and the retreat's orchard and vegetable garden, the spoils of which are served daily at breakfast.

Later, a drive through lush forest broken with vineyards brings us to the nearby township of Cowaramup. Less well known than its neighbour Margaret River, it has its own array of local fare.

Affectionately known as "Cowtown", this lively little community owes its origins to the dairy farmer. Sucker that I am for photographing bovines, I soon come across local cowman Peter Duggan. Peter is a third-generation dairy farmer and, lining both sides of the road into town, his black and white friesians have become a symbol of the area.

In fact, the local Lions Club has installed a large golden cow on a pole in the middle of town and plans to embellish the main street with up to 30 more, just to push the point home.

Although the cream of local crops may now be sauvignon blanc, the dairy farmers have taken advantage of the passing tourist dollar, with Cowaramup now the centre for gourmet ice cream, Margaret River cheese and chocolates.

Tastebuds ignited, we head for nearby Vasse Felix winery, where we succumb to a pre-lunch wine tasting. Our viticulturist guide is a great sport but after my fifth unsuccessful attempt at aerating the vino in my mouth, he gives up and pours himself a glass to demonstrate or drown his sorrows. The 2009 cabernet sauvignon proves to be the perfect accompaniment to our lunch overlooking the vineyard from the timber deck of the winery's restaurant.

We had planned an extensive itinerary along the obligatory tasting route into nearby Margaret River, but after a three-hour graze on local marron, crispy duck and an exquisite salty caramel dessert, a less-structured afternoon seems more apt.

Instead, we meander over to the coast and clear our heads in the sea spray on a rock-hewn beach scattered with purple and white flowers.

Feeling more human, the next morning at the main lodge we are treated to omelets and a delicious chocolate fruit loaf, still steaming from the oven. We wash down our feast with local coffee under a sway of wisteria as we observe countless rabbits boldly making their way in the direction of the vegetable garden.

The retreat originally earned its reputation during the 1987 America's Cup, hosting journalists from around the world.

It makes a perfect sanctuary for when you are not out visiting the local caves, vineyards or beaches.

Looking to explore more of the coast, we journey south to Australia's tallest mainland lighthouse at Cape Leeuwin, a 30-minute drive that comes with an endless range of wine-bearing pit stops.

Climbing the spiral steps, the tour guide's resemblance to an old seafaring captain keeps us amused as we battle the winds at the top of the lighthouse to catch a glimpse at the spot where the Indian and Southern oceans meet.

Our bearded leader regales us with stories of explorers and shipwrecks, putting us in the mood for a fish-and-chips lunch in the seaside village of Augusta, and lining our stomachs for some more wine-tasting on the homeward stretch.

Back at our private villa, the bush aroma is as intoxicating as the velvety red we share while the sun recedes.

Heading for the double spa bath, we take care to bring our glasses inside, lest we be swindled by the drunken marsupial.

The writer was a guest of Merribrook Retreat.

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COWARAMUP

Getting there

Qantas and Virgin Australia fly daily to Perth from most capital cities. See qantas.com.au or virginaustralia.com.au From Perth, it is a three-hour drive to Cowaramup. See vroomvroomvroom.com.au

Staying there

The writer stayed at Merribrook Retreat, see merribrook.com.au A variety of accommodation can also be found at margaretriver.com

Doing there

Vasse Felix winery runs wine, food and cultural events and the restaurant is open daily for lunch.

See vassefelix.com.au Local tour operator Caveworks offers an Ultimate Pass, including entry to Jewel, Lake and Mammoth caves, as well as Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse. Ph [phone]. More: See margaretriver.com