Wild whale adventures and winter warmer retreats in the Shoalhaven
Take a wild ride on the ‘Humpback Highway’ - The southern coast of NSW is an extraordinary wonderland of balanced high adventure possibilities and refined relaxation endeavours, but there’s one mighty beast of an experience that’s truly unforgettable ...
WILD WHALES
It’s a profound moment, one that passes you by in an instant, and yet the image remains seared into memory despite those few fleeting seconds.
Having scaled the Andes, swam with giant mantas and climbed into volcanoes over the years, coming face-to-face with a humpback whale is unlike any experience I’ve encountered.
And I did it only a few hours from where I live in Sydney.
Locals fondly refer to the area as the ‘Humpback Highway’ while a marine biologist will tell you it’s the Jervis Bay Marine Park, a wildlife sanctuary spanning 100km of coastline adjacent to the Pacific Ocean.
But none of that matters when you’re strapped into a full-body wetsuit, speeding away from land into the wild abyss of the sea as winds batter you from every direction and your sense of vulnerability grows with every nautical mile.
Pulling up some 10km off Australia’s east coast, our host and captain exclaims, “are you ready for this?!”
And in that moment the energy shifts. There’s electricity in the air.
The excitement becomes palpable as the massive tail of a humpback whale whips out of the sea just metres from the boat.
“Dive! Dive Dive!” Screams the captain.
Gulp! In we go.
Adrenaline eviscerates the cold. While above sea level the wilds of nature are howling at you, beneath there is an eerie calm and brooding omniscience to the indescribable vastness.
Then, just as I navigate the existential response one has when feeling completely exposed to the true forces of nature, a giant appears.
And then another.
Two humpback whales, swimming side-by-side, are holding my gaze.
I can see the detail in their eyes and that of the barnacles adorning their bellies.
It feels like forever, but was over in a flash; that moment burned into my mind forever.
I surfaced to elated yelps from other divers - “that was incredible!”
Indeed it was more than that, it was a true bucket list life experience never to be forgotten.
FLAVOUR TOWN
Naturally, high adventure should be complemented by casual luxury and effortlessly cool dining experiences.
Nestled unassumingly amongst local shops at Mollymook Beach is a world-class casual fine-dining destination.
Readily referred to as “out of this world” by both locals and tourists, the hip and humble eatery has carved out a niche of Asian-fusion for itself. Cult dishes like crispy miso potato with mushroom dashi and mie goreng spice delight diners, while a plethora of eccentrically-original cocktails charm the senses.
Gwylo is the kind of restaurant and bar that exudes a relaxed chic that would sit comfortably in the hippest neighbourhoods of New York and London.
Sitting at the bar will definitely provide the wildest ride, but there are booths on offer for that more relaxed and intimate vibe - just remember to book ahead of time.
LUXURY LODGING
With its origins steeped in the motel model and aesthetic of the 1970s, Bannisters by the Sea is truly a rags-to-riches redemption story of the highest and most luxurious order.
Originally built as a seaside motel in the 1960s, the site went through myriad transformations over the years until eventually becoming a beacon of potential to the likes of Rick Stein.
The British celebrity chef got involved after friend and owner Peter Cosgrove (no, not the former Governor-General of Australia) brought the location back to life with elegant flair in the 2000s.
In more recent years, interior designer Cameron Kimber and celebrated Australian fashion designer Collette Dinnigan have both made their mark on the secluded luxury retreat.
A visit to the NSW South Coast can’t be complete without indulging the fresh local seafood - and Rick Stein at Bannisters is destination dining at its best.
Sophisticated yet simple, and with a wine list to match, you can while away the night with grilled local lobster, some pan-seared salmon and mussels or just enjoy the exquisite sashimi.