Treasures of the wild west

AMAZING surf, mystery caves and gourmet delights are the treasures on a scenic drive from Cape Naturaliste to Cape Leeuwin.

escape wa

IF I'd been awake long enough, I could have seen the moon and then the sun rise over Western Australia's Geographe Bay, but it seems I'm always late during the scenic drive from Cape Naturaliste to Cape Leeuwin.

Beaches, forests, wineries and photos all add up when you're stretching time.

I wake up late in Dunsborough and drive up to nearby Cape Naturaliste, stopping in at picturesque Meelup Beach, Eagle Bay, and breakfast at Bunker Bay as the aqua sea creeps in.

Dropping in at the lighthouse for a last glimpse and stroll there's still so many coastal walks undone and at 135km the walk to Cape Leeuwin unfortunately isn't an option.

I branch off for a quick look at the huge honey-coloured Sugarloaf Rock before I rejoin Caves Rd and head to Yallingup.

Taken from an Aboriginal word for "place of love", it's easy to develop an instant attraction to the town.

It has houses on the hill, a surf school and beaches suitable for surfing and fishing plus nearby Ngilgi Cave.

Heading a little farther down the coast I get my first real "wow" moment at Canal Rocks.

The powerful Indian Ocean has worn at the faults in the volcanic rock, creating a series of islands separated by canals.

As I stand on the timber bridge linking the islands, the place seems to have a coastal Venice feel with waves breaking dramatically over the rocks and surging through the canal below.

The bridge also makes access to the islands possible for adventurous fishermen.

It's a scenic spot. I stand with the coast to the north covered in vegetation under heavy cloud and the sunlit coast to the south adorned with golden dunes among vegetation.

Back on the road, I'm soon on a bottle shop tour as I recognise the labels of the different wineries as I pass by.

If I ever needed a co-driver it's now. I play designated driver, imbibing nothing and counting more than 10 wineries sliding past with signs for others attempting to lure me even farther from the road.

Diverting from Caves Rd near Gracetown, I decide to check out the Margaret River region's surf breaks, starting with North Point.

Under the right conditions it's a daunting, long righthander and as a non-surfing albatross I can only watch with a twinge of envy as surfers make the drop.

Back on the road, I drive past the Margaret River Venison and am soon at the crossroads between Margaret River and Surfers Point.

It's a tough choice.

Australia's tallest hardwoods
If I go into Margaret River I won't have time to properly enjoy epicurean foods, the hemp shop or the fudge factory, and I'll be too late to take the coast road.

So I head towards Surfers Point instead and walk around to watch the Margaret River mouth carve a sandy channel into the ocean below.

I'm missing things again as I quickly drive past Calgardup, Mammoth, Lake and Giants caves.

Then I have to stop and pull over abruptly before someone runs into me.

It's my first glimpse of the giant karri trees.

They're Western Australia's tallest hardwoods, growing up to 75m - and there's a whole forest of them.

Picking up the pace again, I make a quick detour to Hamelin Bay, which is a haven for giant stingrays that feed off fishermen's scraps at the jetty and boat ramp when boats come in early morning or late afternoon.

Somebody told me the hungry stingrays will nibble on your toes like the exfoliating garra rufa fish but it's not advised. Fortunately I don't have to test that as I'm too early to be considered afternoon tea.

Passing Jewel Cave on the main road, I pull into Augusta and head straight to the base of Cape Leeuwin lighthouse just in time for the last tour.

They're strict on departing times and I should have been here at least five minutes earlier.

At 39m, the seven-storey still-operational lighthouse is mainland Australia's tallest.

It has an effective range of 100km and is set up with free powerful mounted binoculars at the bottom for whale watching.

On the way up its 186 steps our guide tells us facts of its 104-year history, such as the tough life of the keeper when the lighthouse ran manually, using a clockwork mechanism and kerosene burner.

In 1982, it was one of the last lighthouses in the world to be converted to electricity and automation followed in 1992.

The area surrounding the lighthouse is also interesting as it's the most southwesterly point of Australia and the swirling meeting point of the Southern and Indian oceans.

There's also a calcified waterwheel and flume which supplied the lighthouse and nearby buildings with spring water.

Glancing at the sinking sun I remember I need to reach my accommodation in Pemberton by dark.

I'm late again.

The writer was a guest of Tourism Western Australia

Go2 Dunsborough

Getting there: Dunsborough, the nearest town to Cape Naturaliste, is 250km south of Perth via the Kwinana Freeway. Augusta, the closest town to Cape Leeuwin, is 95km south of Dunsborough via Caves Rd. Qantas, Jetstar and Virgin Australia fly to Perth.

Staying there: Some options include Augusta Hotel Motel (08 9758 1944, and Turner Caravan Park (08 9758 1593.

Doing there: Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse, Ngilgi Cave, Yallingup, Canal Rocks, stingray feeding at Hamelin Bay, Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse, whale watching, local wineries, Mammoth Cave, Lake Cave, Giants Cave, Calgardup Cave and Jewel Cave.

More: www.margaretriver.com.au or www.westernaustralia.com

Tips: More Australia holiday ideas