Lovely 'Lonny' comes of age

FOR years Launceston played second fiddle to Hobart, but now Lonny – as the locals call it – has blossomed into a perfectly luxurious destination.

Gourmet stop ... Stillwater River Cafe is housed in an 1830s flour mill and its original bluestone wine cellar holds more than 400 labels.

ONE minute I'm sitting in a taxi stuck in a traffic jam in Sydney, all shock jocks, road rage and city angst.

Two hours later I'm a world away in Tasmania, having brunch overlooking the Tamar River and being soothed by birdsong and the gentle click-clack of sailboat rigging.

The pelicans are practising their smooth watery landings, gliding down like Catalina seaplanes and leaving a nice neat wake as they taxi towards the boat dock. There are smaller birds, too – swifts, perhaps – wheeling and diving overhead and making high-pitched calls.

This view is not from a bird hide in a national park or a tinny in the middle of one of Tasmania's lonely lakes, but from a balcony at the Peppers Seaport Hotel in the heart of Launceston.

For years Launceston – "Lonny" to the locals – has played second fiddle to Hobart. Possibly even third fiddle if you include the collective draw of Tasmania's many natural wonderlands, mercifully protected from logging by World Heritage status.

But the city is now emerging as a perfect short break destination. And don't think it's all mum-and-dad B&Bs with doilies; Lonny is all grown up and luxurious now, as well.

Peppers Seaport is a smart, urban-style luxury hotel with a touch of Scandinavia about it. There is a lot of calming Arctic white and cool blue in the exterior decor, and the designers have used steel and blond wood to great effect inside.

It has been built to resemble a ship and stay true to its nautical surroundings. The hotel is built on the site of an old dry-dock and has been a key part of the big rejuvenation of the Seaport Dock area of the city.

The gentrification has also seen an influx of restaurants and cafes, which has made it Launceston's hip place to be.

Try to get a River View Room to watch the pelicans or, even better, splash out on a suite, which should really be called an apartment because it has a well-equipped kitchen, washing machine, dishwasher, coffee machine and stove, and enough space to have a dozen friends around for supper.

It's very much part of the new-look Launceston: fresh, modern, enviable. It's the kind of place you drop in to to spend a few days sipping fine pinot, nibbling great Tassie cheeses and having some well-deserved lie-ins, but you end up exhausting yourself having fun on day-trips, picnics at the coast, strolls up the Gorge, or even a big day out to climb Ben Lomond.

Launceston's history is enough to keep you occupied for a few days. It is the third oldest city in Australia, after Sydney and Hobart, and has preserved much of its heritage – especially its architecture.

You can go on guided tours of the city centre, churches or pubs, or do it on your own with a map.

A real treat is a leisurely stroll up the Cataract Gorge in the cool of the evening when the water is as clear as glass. This is the same water that goes into Boag's beer, so it's no wonder it tastes so good.

To get even closer to nature, drive north of the city for about 10 minutes to the Tamar Island Wetlands Conservation Area.

Keep a lookout for eastern banjo frogs, Tasmanian tree skinks and, if you're lucky, an echidna snuffling around on the boardwalk.

The ethos in Launceston is to try to surround yourself with nature even in the city centre – which is why it's the perfect spot for a restaurant celebrating Tasmania's countless gourmet delicacies.

At Stillwater River Cafe you can dine on all sorts of delights, from wallaby accompanied by jerusalem artichokes to truffled quail with celeriac puree and a green pea and asparagus salsa.

The restaurant is housed in an 1830s flour mill with beams of Oregon wood, and kauri pine floors from New Zealand. From the original bluestone wine cellar you can choose from more than 400 labels.

If you can stir from your eyrie at Peppers, that is. On a mid-March visit, I found sitting on the balcony inspiring as well as relaxing.

It was early autumn, and on the boisterous air was the scent of a new season. The first leaves were falling, the days getting noticeably shorter.

It made me want to climb aboard a sturdy vessel and sail off and discover something, much as John Batman did when he cruised out of Launceston, crossed Bass Strait and founded Melbourne.

But then the pelicans started flying past again and the Moorilla Estate pinot tasted so good and I was due to be dining on seared scallops and a steak in native pepperberry sauce for supper.

So I think I'll stay put after all.

The writer was a guest of PeppersSeaport Hotel.

The Sunday Telegraph