Margaret River - like Byron with wineries

THINK of WA's Margaret River region as being like Byron Bay with Hunter Valley wineries, writes a totally mesmerised Bill Rule.

Fine drops ... locals will tell you that Vasse Felix was the first winery in the Margaret River and arguably still the best / WA Tourism

SINCE moving to Western Australia in 2004, my wife and I have hosted family and friends from the eastern states many times. After a night or two in Perth we've given them all similar advice: "Get out of our house!"

That's right, we've brutally suggested they drag themselves away from my, ahem, hypnotic personality and head down south to the Margaret River.

It's the perfect place to holiday in Australia. Beaches, wineries, whale-watching, forests, restaurants, art galleries, indulgences and treats. I describe it to east coasters as Byron Bay, with Hunter Valley wineries.

My first trip south was in 1995 and my last was two weeks ago.

Along the way I've made a few faux pas: gone at the wrong time, drunk dud wine, stayed at houses ghosts wouldn't haunt, paid for overpriced food, lost the family looking for "that" hidden beach, lost to my mother-in-law at table tennis. You get the picture.

We now know the southwest well enough to plan a perfect holiday (or weekender) every time.

The area we tend to fossick around stretches from Busselton to Hamelin Bay (south of Margaret River township). All up it's about 80km north-to-south and pushes in about 20km from the coast.

A good central place to base yourself is around the coastal holiday town of Dunsborough.

From our wealth of experience here's a humble insight into places to go and things to do to help you conquer the Margaret River.

Beaches

Yallingup: The beach that, in my opinion, encapsulates the southwest. Monster waves from an angry Indian Ocean are torn apart by surfers out past the reef yet, closer to shore, a peaceful lagoon provides an ocean pool for swimming and snorkelling.

Meelup: Facing east, Meelup Beach is protected from the wild winds of the Southern Ocean. On summer mornings it's like being on a Whitsunday island. On magical nights you see the moon rise.

Castle Rock: Stunning. A tranquil beach that's sensational for snorkelling and fishing. Great picnic and barbecue area too.

Smiths: Reminds us of what Bondi Beach must have looked like 150 years ago. A great escape.

Wineries

Watershed: A magnificent estate. Set up in 1999 by Geoff Barrett, who is now living his dream of running one of the most successful vineyards in the district. Years of research by Barrett and his team is now being rewarded with annual awards for their wine and food. Take the tip, if the pork belly is on the menu, don't hold back. [phone].

Cullen: Diana and Kevin Cullen first planted vines in 1971; today their daughter, Vanya, is the star of the show. Cullen is the first winery in Australia to form a carbon-neutral policy sourcing natural power from Albany windfarms. It's a great setting for lunch.[phone].

Clairault: Hidden amongst the trees, this is a great venue for a bottle of semillon savignon blanc and a lazy afternoon nibble. In winter sit inside next to a blazing fire. [phone].

Vasse Felix: Established in 1967 by Dr Tom Cullity, Vasse Felix was the first winery in the Margaret River and arguably still the best. Locals believe there is no other winery down south. [phone].

Leeuwin Estate: Famous for Art Series chardonnay and their annual concert. Worth a visit for the experience. [phone].

Wills Domain: Arguably the best valley views in the southwest and their food is excellent. A chorizo platter and a glass of chardonnay has tempted us many times. [phone].

Laurance: You won't miss this one. Almost 15m above the lake, a gold statue of a lady about to dive into the water catches the eye. Laurance has quickly become a popular venue since 2001. Beautiful setting and great playground for kids. [phone].

Eats

Bax on Dunn Bay: What a great night out in Dunsborough. Delicious food in a setting that makes you feel so comfortable. Keep in mind it's only open for dinner. [phone].

Wise Winery: The wines are good but the restaurant is even better. Sitting high above Meelup Beach you can do everything you should be doing when holidaying in the southwest: eating great food, drinking beautiful wine and looking out over the Indian Ocean. [phone].

Food Farmacy: Very popular Dunsborough restaurant with beautiful rabbit sausages (true). Great range of upmarket or mainstream meals and the chocolate tapas dessert plate means you can try everything that's sweet. [phone].

Luxury stays

La Foret Enchantee: Friends who have stayed here almost fainted in awe describing their luxurious weekend. Chandeliers, gold silk, iron and glass furnishing, marble finishes and an incredible Hawaiian massage called a "huna". Book it, Danno. [phone].

Empire Retreat: Hidden off Caves Rd, in between Dunsborough and Yallingup. You can book per night but it's worthwhile asking about their therapeutic packages, which include treats such as the "hot rocks massage", the "thermal facial synergy" and a "detox marine mineral body wrap". Lush with a capital "L". [phone].

Quay West Resort Bunker Bay: Classy, yet not as expensive as other five-star resorts in the area. Book out a chalet and "bunker" in for a romantic weekend or head up to the restaurant and bar overlooking the Indian Ocean. The wet-edge heated swimming pool is a magnet for kids. [phone].

Cape Lodge: When The Police toured Australia earlier this year, Sting chose to stay here with his family. Good choice. It made Conde Nast Traveller's Gold List last year for the World's Best 100 Hotels and came fourth in the world for food. An exquisite place to stay. [phone].

Medium and budget

Seashells Caves House: This grand lady is more than 100 years old but still provides memorable moments for all who visit her. The art-deco hotel sits on 2ha of beautiful gardens and is a 10-minute walk from Yallingup Beach. A perfect base for a holiday. [phone].

Dunsborough Rail Carriages and Farm Cottages: Unique farmstay where you can feed kangaroos as well as a host of other farm animals. Accommodation options include a farmhouse and cottages for families or restored rail carriages for couples. You can bring your pet too. It's also close to Dunsborough township. We book in here with the kids at least once a year and have a ball every time. [phone].

Yallingup Beach Holiday Park: Western Australia's best caravan park location. Overlooks Yallingup Beach and you can stay in ensuite cabins, standard cabins, pitch your tent or unpack the caravan. Idyllic Aussie holiday guaranteed. [phone].

Wildwood Valley Retreat: Hidden high in the bush between Dunsborough and Yallingup with views to the ocean. Great value with lots of accommodation options. There's a wood-fired pizza oven outside. [phone].

The Sunday Telegraph