Liam Bartlett swims with whale sharks on the Ningaloo Reef
THE 60 minutes reporter manages to convince his family to take a swim with the world's biggest fish on the Ningaloo Reef - a majestic experience.
THEY'RE the rock stars of Ningaloo Reef and I was determined to get my family a front-row seat to see them play.
A little over three years ago, we filmed a story for 60 Minutes on the worldwide bid to protect the mighty whale shark and I vowed then to come back and let my children experience the same rush of being up close and personal with the biggest fish in the ocean.
One thing I didn't count on was the typically teenage reaction to the title. Despite seeing the broadcast story and knowing that I was alive and well, my 15-year-old son was not buying it; "You want us to swim next to it? That's not a holiday, that's more like a festival of fear."
That, of course, did nothing to mollify my 12-year-old daughter's apprehension, who quickly added, "Well, Dad, there must be a reason that it has the word 'shark' in its name."
Terrific. All I needed was for our youngest to bail out and the whole plan was on the rocks. Fortunately, at 10, he's not old enough for cynicism and still up for adventure so, after bribing my wife with a 4-star stay at the Novotel, the best pub in Exmouth, I had a quorum and the family vote was a foregone conclusion.
Ningaloo is arguably the most spectacular, certainly the most accessible stretch of coral coastline in Australia and, apart from playing host to these marine superstars from March to August every year, the diving, fishing and swimming possibilities are endless. We booked a whale shark discovery tour with Ocean Eco Adventures, run by Andy Edwards, a 17-year veteran who skippers a beautiful big boat called the Keshi-Mer (sea pearl) .
I figured we would arrive and settle in a few days early to soak up the sun and sneak in a couple of snorkelling sessions to get the kids match-fit.
In theory a good move, but a stumble on the reef at low tide on the first day meant a trip to the local hospital to treat my wife's badly cut big toe. The doctor's instructions were simple: keep the dressing dry for 10 days. Perfect. She swears it wasn't an elaborate plan to avoid the big one but as a long-standing husband, I remain deeply suspicious (memo: make sure the entire family has rubber reef shoes).
Sideshow over and reassurances patiently repeated, the day dawned in good style with a fair wind from the east and a 1.5m swell that looked pretty reasonable.
Although the weather on the northwest tip of Western Australia is usually dependable, the conditions on the day you book remain a lottery and, in recognition of that, a refund is given for inclement weather largely because of safety concerns getting in and out of the boat. That said, so far this season only one day has seen a cancellation.
We were picked up from the hotel and spent the bus journey to the Tantabiddi boat ramp discussing the biology of these marvellous creatures that can reach a century in age, 21 tonnes in weight and 18m in length and the most important part, they eat plankton, lots of plankton drifting around on the ocean currents after the coral spawns up and down the reef.
I think I said that three times. One as fact, twice after one of the scone grabbers pointed out they had huge mouths and the third time as simple, positive reinforcement. That amateur psychology was about as successful as a full lobotomy after the on-board briefing from first mate Natalie Chilvers who asked, "OK, who knows if it's a whale or a shark?"
This proved a rhetorical question as she plunged on, "That's right, it's a shark from the shark family, so it doesn't have to come up for air."
Great. All my calm, fatherly stuff out the window or, in this case, completely overboard.
Fortunately, Skipper Andy took us first for a preparatory snorkel. A chance to test the currents and get the children comfortable with the deep, with the incredible array of coloured fish and corals turning their minds from what-if to wonder.
The crew could not have been more attentive or more professional and, after they were satisfied the tour group was ready, it was out through the passage and along the coast to search for the star of the show.
Like the other six tour operators at Ningaloo, Ocean Eco talks to a spotter plane that continually monitors the reef for positive sightings.
Within 30 minutes of our expedition, the call came over the two-way - "I have a shark for you" - and pilot Serene radios in the GPS for Andy to line up the vessel.
Moments later we are in the water swimming alongside one of nature's truly majestic creations. The kids' eyes were as wide as their goggles and the memories will be there forever. Luckily for us, that first shark happily cruised near the surface for the best part of 40 minutes, giving all of us a fantastic experience.
On top of that, all day we were treated to multiple humpback whale sightings - some estimate numbers migrating past Ningaloo now at 43,000 plus - and a chance to snorkel with a manta ray.
Throw in a constant stream of delicious food and snacks and a wonderfully friendly crew and it was a sensational day.
That's not to say, of course, that this is for everyone.
Ningaloo is not a cheap place to get to and the whale-shark tours are not inexpensive but in this fast-paced world, if you want an interactive experience with nature that you will never forget, this has to be one of the best on the planet.
Just don't tell your children it's a shark.
Go2
- NINGALOO
-- Getting there
QantasLink flies from Perth to Learmonth Airport.
See qantas.com.au
-- Staying there
Novotel Ningaloo Resort, Madaffari Drive, Exmouth. See novotelningaloo.com.au or ph (08) 9949 0000.
-- Swimming with the whale sharks
Ocean Eco Adventures, see oceanecoadventures.com.au or ph 0427 425 925.
-- Driving around Exmouth and surrounds
Budget Car Rentals, cnr Murat Rd and Pellew St, seewww.budget.com.au or ph (08) 9949 1534.