Inner beauty at Byron Bay's Crystal Castle

EVEN if you aren't a New Ager looking for nirvana, beautiful Crystal Castle near Byron Bay is well worth visiting, as Brian Johnston discovers.

Crystal Castle lotus cafe

I'M HAVING my aura read, and apparently all that muddy yellow emanating from the top of my head means I'm undergoing a period of uncertainty and indecision.

Maybe there's something in this aura reading business, after all.

I was indeed rather uncertain whether I wanted my aura read, let alone by a stranger called Corinne, who is calmly observant and has a voice so soothing it would hypnotise a snake.OK, so maybe Crystal Castle did get its start decades ago thanks to Byron Bay hippies, who rocked up here to buy healing stones from owner Naren King.

But things have moved on, and Crystal Castle is now a well-organised, sophisticated tourist attraction.

My first surprise is the rather fine cafe, where I stop for my mid-morning coffee before exploring the attractions.

The veranda has a stunning view over Byron's lush green hinterland.

Below spread subtropical gardens that are reason enough to visit Crystal Castle, whether or not you're interested in New Age philosophies.

Heliconias erupt in orange, flowering gingers in red, brilliantly contrasting with bananas and bamboo.

The gardens are cleverly divided into different areas, providing a great sense of variety and tranquillity.

I take a meditative walk to the middle of a labyrinth, amble through sun-dappled bamboo groves, and sit in a raked courtyard presided over by a serene Buddha.

There are Buddhist and Hindu statues dotted throughout the gardens.

Many visitors leave coins tucked into the statues' elbows and the folds of their robes for good luck.

Also on display are some impressive geodes. The children will enjoy cracking a mini geode and becoming the first humans to see the glittering crystals that are embedded in these 100 million-year-old rocks.

Adults can have psychic and astrological readings, buy recordings of whale song and browse books on everything from aromatherapy to Zen meditation.

Before the morning ends, I have my hands on metal plates and pop! Corinne produces a Polaroid of the electromagnetic fields emanating from my head. She passes quickly over my muddy yellow, and enthuses over the greens bursting out of my left side, which indicate renewal and personal development.

As I leave, she puts a cornelian into my hand, which she says is for creativity and motivation.

Odd. I feel just the opposite of motivated in Crystal Castle, but in a good way. I find it an unexpectedly magical place, where I feel relaxed enough just to sit and do nothing at all.

Put it down to mystic auras, rune lines or a hippy vibe if you like.

As far as I'm concerned, I'm happy just because I'm in a nice place on a sunny day. And that's what any holiday is all about.

Brian Johnston was a guest of Legendary Pacific Coast and Britz Campervans. Follow his travel blog at www.thoughtfultravelwriter.com

Go2 - CRYSTAL CASTLE

Getting there: Crystal Castle is 40km north of Ballina near Mullumbimby. Virgin Australia flies to Ballina/Byron. See virginaustralia.com, ph 13 67 89.

Getting around: Britz Campervans has a wide range of motorhomes and campervans for hire, allowing you to explore the NSW Northern Rivers region at leisure and on a budget. See britz.com.au, ph 1800 331 454.

Staying there: Shaws Bay Holiday Park is between river and beaches in Ballina and has powered and unpowered sites, as well as cabins. See northcoastholiday parks.com.au, ph 1800 684 334.

The spacious Ramada Hotel & Suites is right on the Richmond River in downtown Ballina and has a terrific restaurant. See ramadaballinabyron.com.au, ph 1800 826 181.

Doing there: Crystal Castle, see crystal castle.com.au, ph 6684 3111.

More: pacificcoast.com.au

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