48 hours in Broken Hill

A MAGNET for artists, mining town Broken Hill in New South Wales offers impressive scenery, culture and foodie opportunities.

Escape Broken Hill

A ROCKY ridge in outback western New South Wales, known locally as "the broken hill", turned out to be the top of an ore body containing the world's richest source of silver, lead and zinc.

A 7km tailing mound, like a man-made Uluru, dominates the cityscape. Humble corrugated-iron shops sit proudly beside ornate municipal buildings. A heritage spire shares the skyline with a modern communications tower.

It's a "take us as you find us" town, but the welcome is as big and warm as the Outback on its doorstep. You could spend a week in Broken Hill, but if you have only 48 hours, here's my pick.

-- Day 1--

* Morning

To get a handle on Broken Hill, you need to understand its mining heritage and the best place to start is the Albert Kersten Mining & Minerals Museum, or Geocentre.

Despite its name, this is an engaging, modern museum with interactive displays and an excellent short film on how the local ore body was formed. There are samples of weird and wonderful crystals, a 42kg silver nugget, and the Silver Tree, an intricate table centrepiece from the late 1800s.

White's Mineral Art & Living Mining Museum, built by ex-miner Bushy White to replicate an underground mine, is crammed with memorabilia, old photos and models depicting work in the mines, along with Bushy's mineral artworks.

Through a grainy video you'll learn about Charles Rasp, who pegged the first claim, the formation of BHP and mining innovations. Check out Betty White's handmade dolls and bears next door, too.

See visitbrokenhill.com.au. 

* Afternoon

For lunch with a view, drive to the architecturally award-wining Broken Earth Cafe & Restaurant atop the Line of Lode mullock mound.

Absorb the panoramic views from The Big Chair a seriously oversized park bench and visit the Miners Memorial, where the deaths of more than 800 miners are remembered on glass panels (the youngest was 12 years old). Broken Hill is an absolute magnet for artists and you can see their work on a walk around town sculptures by Pro Hart, Aboriginal story poles and vibrant, graffiti-free murals.

Pop into the many galleries, from mosaics to photographs, and you're likely to meet the artists at work, such as Howard Steer, the "Flying Doctor" artist, who's happy to stop for a chat.

For a huge selection of art, jewellery and quirky collectables from metal ants to edible Outback Droppings stop by the Silver City Mint & Art Centre, home to the world's largest painting.

See brokenearthrestaurant.com.au; howardsteerart.com.au; www.silvercitymint.com.au.

* Evening

Spend the evening at the grand old dame, the Palace Hotel, featured in the movie Priscilla, Queen of the Desert.

With a fresh lease on life from new owners, the bar and restaurant is open Tuesday to Saturday. Take in the massive murals adorning the stairwell, hallways and pavilion, then chat with the eclectic mix of locals and travellers at the bar over a tapas platter before dinner.

See thepalacehotel brokenhill.com.au. 

-- Day 2

* Morning

Go back to class at the School of the Air (book through the visitor centre) for an insight into the logistics of isolated learning.

Banks of computers, cameras, monitors and electronic whiteboards replace the simple radio of yesteryear, but not the patient teachers.

Equally impressive are the skills of the Royal Flying Doctor Service, whose history is told through a heart-tugging video of real-life stories.

Walk through the museum exhibits before a tour of the facilities, including the hangar.Alternatively, take a walking tour (Monday, Wednesday, Friday from the visitor centre) with volunteer guides, whose personal perspective and local anecdotes add flavour to historic landmarks (such as the Titanic memorial), miners' stories and the trade union movement.

See www.schoolair-p.schools.nsw.edu.au; flyingdoctor.org.au; visitbrokenhill.com.au. 

* Afternoon

Lunch at Charlotte's at the Grand or Thom, Dick & Harry's in Argent St before driving to the Living Desert Flora & Fauna Sanctuary and Sculpture Walk, about 9km from town.

The Cultural Walk in the Living Desert, lush with growth after recent rains, takes about 1 1/2 hours, past a quartz quarry, prospector's mine, Aboriginal story poles and scenic lookout.

Atop a nearby hill, 12 stone sculptures stand sentinel against the expansive blue sky, the result of a sculpture symposium in 1993.

Listen to the crickets and birdsong while taking in the 360-degree views of the Outback, highlighting just how isolated Broken Hill is.

See visitbrokenhill.com.au.

* Evening Watch the sun set over the sculptures or head back to the heritage-listed Astra Hotel in town. Enjoy a well-earned drink under the historic veranda, followed by a light meal in the wine bar or a la carte dinner in the dining room.

See theastra.com.au

The writer was a guest of Outback NSW Tourism.

*** Go2*** 

BROKEN HILL

-- Getting there --

Regional Express (Rex) flies direct to Broken Hill from Sydney. See rex.com.au or qantas.com.au.

A variety of car hire companies operate out of Broken Hill and Mildura.

-- Staying there --

Stay in the 1889 mural-adorned Palace Hotel in the main street. See thepalace hotelbrokenhill.com.au or ph [phone].

The Imperial Fine Accommodation offers heritage ensuite rooms in another beautiful old building.

See imperialfineaccommodation.com or ph [phone].

Emaroo Argent is a self-contained cottage a short walk from town. See emaroo cottages.com.au or ph 0418 862 260.

-- Doing there --

Call into the visitor centre for maps and guide books. Many museums and galleries don't open until 10am and opening hours are a guide only, so it pays to ring and check first.