Gourmet trail of Albany delights

A 75KM gourmet food and wine trail in Western Australia doesn't just indulge the tastebuds, it's a feast for the eyes as you travel through stunning countryside.

Cosmopolitan ... the food and wine trail starts in the heart of Albany, which exudes a historical maritime feel combined with modern-day vibrancy / WA Tourism

THINK of Albany and glorious images of the wild coastline, tranquil bays, sugar-white beaches and mighty whales spring to mind.

But this nature-rich holiday hot spot in the Great Southern is also emerging as the place for gourmet food and wine.

The green, fertile plains nurture an ever-increasing range of fresh produce, as more and more producers find new and exciting ways to sell their wares.

The newest initiative is the Go Taste Albany food and wine trail. On this 75km journey through rolling hills and along stunning shores, discover wines, locally brewed beers, organic farmhouse cheese, seafood, strawberries and more. The trail has a dozen attractions, and more will open soon.

Oranje Tractor Wine's Murray Gomm said the trail was not just about indulging the tastebuds, but was a total "slow food" experience based on savouring good food, good company and good wine.

"The thing that unites us here is that visitors are actually meeting the producers at the farmgate," he said.

The relationship gained by meeting the owners fosters a new appreciation of their products.

You can understand the owners' passions for their products and hear tales of the sweat, the laughter, the hard work and the joy of getting the product just right.

Go Taste Albany starts in the heart of the town, which exudes a historical maritime feel combined with modern-day vibrancy.

Here, near the shores of Royal Princess Harbour, are Alkoomi Wines and Olive Oil.

The cellar door offers the products developed at Alkoomi's Frankland River winery and olive grove.

Owner Merv Lange is typical of the down-to-earth and unpretentious wine producers of the area. His winery was born as a result of poor farming returns in the 1960s.

"We approached the Agricultural Department at the time about what to do and ran into a bloke who said, 'Why not try grapes?' " Mr Lange said.

"When we first planted, we never intended to make the wine ourselves. We were typical farmers who just thought someone would buy the grapes. But I ended up making it myself.

"Now, sometimes we'd prefer to be judged on the quality of our worst wine – that shows how good we are across the board."

Just a few shopfronts away is JD Designs, which sells tasty goodies of the region. You can order a picnic hamper here to enjoy along the Albany tasting trail.

Next, jump in the car and head out of town to Oranje Tractor winery. Mr Gomm and his partner, Pam Lincoln, have a delightful cellar of organic wines in a business based on lifestyle, not just profits.

"When we were in Perth we felt like the wheel was turning, but the hamster was dead," Mr Gomm said. "We wanted to reconnect with nature and offer the whole slow-food experience."

Oranje Tractor also has Mediterranean platters and sells cheeses from nearby Over the Moon cheesery.

Over the Moon owners David Schober and Juliet Bateman have six brown swiss and jersey cows, which use Albany's sweet grasses to produce a heavenly range of cheeses.

The cheeses are made at a new cheesery and are sold at outlets like Oranje Tractor.

Next on the agenda is Mt Romance: The Sandalwood Factory, followed by three more vineyards.

Stop at the Freshpict Strawberry Farm for strawberries, sorbet, toppings and wines.

Then head to the coast to taste fresh seafood at The Squid Shack, overlooking the harbour.

Pop back to town for a beer and a meal at the new Tanglehead Brewing Co's trendy bar and restaurant.

The refurbished historical building is filled with a big, happy crowd during the week, which is just what managing director Allan Kelly wanted to achieve.

"It was a big risk to see if people would take to it, but it's really taken off," he said. "In the first week we had people coming back two, three times."

Several varieties of excellent beers are brewed on the premises, which also has a stylish restaurant and beer garden.

Leave yourself enough time to "digest" Flinders Park Lodge.

Owners Scott and Rosie Deveson started the business less than a year ago and have put their hearts into transforming the historic building into a work of art.

Ms Deveson's exuberant personality is evident in the decorations. The designs are rich, vibrant and full of life.

The lodge's windows overlook hectares of rolling gardens, which tumble down to a picturesque duck-filled pond.

Like many in the region, the Devesons gave away a high-flying, international lifestyle and moved to Albany for a simpler, more contented way of life. And they couldn't be happier.

"Albany just has this unique sense about it. We fell in love with it," Ms Deveson said.

"We wanted somewhere where we could bring the kids up and have a home business. We're concentrating on making this the best bed and breakfast it can be."

After a visit here, enjoying a chat and a wine while admiring the garden views, it's obvious the duo's efforts are paying off.

The Sunday Times