Good oil on Mudgee's fine wine country

A LUXURY spa cottage is the base for Sheridan Rogers on her Mudgee adventures.

Mudgee vineyard/Bob Barker

SPRING was in the air as I wound my way over the Blue Mountains towards Mudgee.

Under looming grey clouds as I turned off the highway after Lithgow, the road was lit on both sides by flashes of brilliant green and yellow wattle.

As I drew closer to the town, the clouds lifted, allowing the last golden rays of sunlight to shine brightly on the magnificent sandstone escarpment to my right.

Mudgee is famous for its vineyard-studded rolling hills, its cellar doors, wineries, music festivals and pantry condiments; in fact, you wouldn't be far off the mark to call it the condiment capital of NSW.

I was on my way to check a few cellar doors and sample some of the award-winning extra-virgin olive oils being produced in the surrounding region which includes Rylstone, Kandos and Gulgong.

But where to stay? As with the cellar doors, there's an embarrassment of riches including a number of terrific places 10 to 15 minutes out of town, such as Mudgee Homestead and Wildwood.

However, I wanted to be closer in and settled on Evanslea, attracted by its luxury spa cottages and promise of beautiful English-style gardens, tranquil lake and tennis court.

Tucked away down a hedge-lined lane just off the main road through town, it's located on 3.6ha and fronts onto the Cudgegong River. The four cottages are scattered throughout the garden, guaranteeing privacy and peace and quiet.

Designed for couples, each comes with a spa bath in a corner of the main room, queen-size bed, fully equipped kitchenette, wood-fired stove (very necessary in a Mudgee winter), TV and CD player, air-conditioning and barbecue.

There's plenty of attention to life's little luxuries with complimentary chocolates, port, fluffy white towels and bathrobes.

You could happily tuck up here for the weekend and see no one, if it weren't for all those beckoning cellar doors.

Hosts Vicki and Andrew Hudson are typical "tree changers" who moved to Mudgee from Sydney's northern beaches five years ago. They are very welcoming but not intrusive (their house is completely separate from the cottages) and they also welcome pets.

In fact, their love of animals is part of the charm of Evanslea. They have three golden retrievers, a trio of maltese terriers, chickens, and three miniature horses. And, when I visited, Andrew was nursing a kangaroo joey (both he and Vicki are wildlife carers). But as

with their owners, the animals are not intrusive.

Vicki is a good cook and, if you ask for a catered breakfast, she will spoil you with delectable egg dishes and fruit concoctions with product from their orchard.

"Depending on the season, I'll do poached pears, baked apples, fruit crumbles, mango and passionfruit clafoutis and caramelised bananas," she says.

"I can't see why you can't serve dessert for breakfast."

Andrew's also pretty handy in the kitchen and will whip up one of his famous ham stacks if you ask. "Regulars often ask us for dinner which we'll provide if asked beforehand," Vicki says.

Talented local caterer Rachael McCarthy (ex Bizzy Birds at Rylstone) can also provide a sumptuous meal or picnic.

She makes good use of the abundant local produce, including fresh yabbies, Mudgee lamb and honey, Ormiston pork, organic vegetables, gourmet hazelnuts, High Valley cheeses and handmade feta from Alan Cox at Leaning Oak Winery & Dairy.

Matching the local wines with the various dishes is part of the fun, though choosing which of the many excellent wines to purchase is challenging.

I'd recommend a visit to Roth's Wine Bar, smack bang in the middle of town, for a bit of tasting before you venture out. Here, you'll rub shoulders with local winemakers and chefs and be guided in your choice of wines by the dynamic owners, Mandy and Simon Gilbert.

"Each wine passes a tasting panel before being selected for the wine list, so you won't strike any disappointing purchases," Mandy says. "The only choice is which variety or blend you prefer."

It's a great place to meet locals, catch some of the local gossip and imbibe a slice of Mudgee's history (it's been operating since 1923). On a Friday night, it's definitely the place to be – and only a 10-minute walk back to Evanslea.

The Sunday Telegraph