Food for the soul in Mullumbimby

ON the northern New South Wales hinterland trail, the village of Mullumbimby offers some good reasons to make a pitstop, writes Natascha Mirosch.

Milk and Honey ... pizzas are what locals and tourists alike flock here for – thin, smoky bases with pared back toppings such as prosciutto, ham or salami as well as imaginative salads, like apple and walnut / Kevin Ball

ON the northern New South Wales hinterland trail, the village of Mullumbimby offers some good reasons to make a pitstop.

1. Mullumbimby Chocolate Shop

YOU'LL be like a child in a candy store.

Owner Sharon Allen keeps a close eye on things, though - don't expect to be allowed to buy gobstoppers if you don't yet have your second teeth and unless you specifically have permission from your mum, no more than $2 worth of lollies at a time.

You'd think it would be mainly children who frequented the shop, but these days apparently half the customers have their driving licences. There's no limit on how much grown-ups can spend and it's easy to go mad with old faves like pineapples, milk bottles, and caramel buds for 10 each.

There are chunks of Blackpool rock, bananas, locally grown chocolate-coated macadamias, handmade chocolates and local biscuits.

Locally crafted pinatas hang from the roof, ready to be filled for a party. Lollies are put into candy striped bags, although if, like one customer who doesn't want his wife to know about his habit, Allen keeps a stash of discreet brown paper bags.

Where: Shop 1/104 Dalley St, Ph: [phone]

2. D-Lush Gourmet Takeaway

YOU couldn't be in this part of the world without a coming across a fresh juice bar. D-Lush is all that and more.

Try a "funky fusion", with carrot, apple, celery, beetroot and ginger. If you're feeling a bit under the weather, add a shot of vitamin C or echinachea to rev up your immune system.

According to D'Lush's mission statement they are "committed to promoting food of the highest quality, prepared on site". The food is also of local origin and organic where possible.

Pick up an organic spelt Turkish bread or freshly baked baguette filled with Bangalow ham, one of a selection of freshly made healthy salads, or have a coffee and choose from a range of cakes and slices such as gluten-free chocolate and raspberry cake. There's also a small deli range with imported cheeses, locally made smallgoods and more.

Where: 28 Burringbar St, Ph: [phone]

3. Bombay Cherry

YOU'LL smell the nose-tickling spices before you reach the doors of this place, where a flower garlanded statue of the goddess Maharani stands guard.

During the day you can call in for coffee and cake. At night it transforms to a chic curry house offering a mix of north and south Indian food. This is a family operation, with mother and son working kitchen and floor.

There are gluten-free curries, thalis (mixed platters), dairy-free curries and no thickeners are used apart from coconut milk. There are lots of vegetarian options like korma, or chana masala (chickpeas cooked in tomatoes and onions with fresh chilli). The most popular dish is lamb sagwala, made to their own recipe.

All the spices mixes are blended in-house, arriving monthly with rice from India. The rest of the produce is local fresh vegetables, high quality beef, lamb and chicken. Grab a cooling rose lassi to accompany the spicier offerings.

Where: 1/53 Stuart St, Ph: [phone]

4. Santos Trading

LOCATED in the old Westpac bank building, this store flutters with peace dove flags and buzzes with basket-toting locals. It represents the ethos of the local community. There is everything from worm farms to organic flour, Garnisha pastes, Tommy Toe eggplant pickles, umboshi paste, brown rice and miso. Containers hold help-yourself dried fruits, seeds and nuts, flour and cereals and there's a range of Fairtrade goods like coffee and chocolate.

Local produce is well represented here: Byron Bay coffee, the psychedelic sounding but quite innocuous Mullumbimby magic salad dressing, biodynamic fetta, and a black rice pudding. Pick up some breakfast supplies, relax with Hari Har Chai, and feed your body good stuff like biodynamic yoghurt, organic muesli and bread from the Goanna bakery. A greengrocery section offers a selection of local fruit and veg and there's a terrace cafe.

Where: Burringbar and Stuart streets, Ph: [phone]

5. The Middle Pub Brasserie

LIKE all good country towns, this one boasts a fine old pub.

Locally known as "The Middleby" the historic Commercial Hotel is dark and cosy with wooden floors and VJ walls, fireplaces and historical pictures. There are lots of corners to nurse a beer or tables where you can challenge a mate to game of pool, or bars to perch at and share a drink with a laidback local.

The brasserie, in the centre of the pub, like the rest of it has been renovated recently; modernised without losing the country charm.

The menu is full of traditional pub fare, like beef and Guinness pie, as well as more modern dishes such as fettuccine, healthy salads and homemade burgers. The wine list is not huge but pretty much what you'd expect and decent enough to accompany your garlicky chicken Kiev and chips.

Where: 46 Burringbar St, Ph: [phone]

6. Mullumbimby Fresh Fruit Market

Where: Burringbar St, Ph: [phone]

THERE'S an earthy country feel to this fruit and veg shop which opens on the main drag.

Neat piles and pyramids of fresh fruit invite you to fill your basket with often locally grown produce - huge pumpkins when in season, local limes and pawpaw, bananas and lettuce. There are two fruit and veg deliveries a week, so it's always fresh and seasonal.

As well as the usual carrots, potatoes and apples you sometimes can pick up more exotic fare: galangal and globe artichokes, dragon fruit and jabotica, as well as plumcots, a mix of apricot and plum. Expect typical old-fashioned service.

7. Cafe Ripe

POPULAR for breakfasts, which are served until 11am, grab a paper and settle in for a Merlo coffee and breakfast.

Order a plate of organic eggs, sourdough or gluten-free rice bread or perhaps with some sweetcorn fritters and avocado salsa and salad accompanied by a fresh-squeezed juice.

A blackboard offering daily lunch specials may have Yamba prawns, flash seared with brandy and cream, garlic and a chilli reduction or other well-constructed lighter-style meals. There are handcarved tables, mustard cement floors and cream walls inside and a peaceful and lush garden outside.

Where: 72 Burringbar St, Ph: [phone]

8. Mullum Zest

THE lime green walls and low-set coffee tables invite the diner in, but if you fancy eating alfresco, continue through to the lovely garden out the back, at night lit by fairy lights. The menu is fairly extensive and casual.

Grab a BLT, or chunky sourdough toast with smoked salmon, capers, and cream cheese, jacket potatoes, vegetable spring rolls, eye fillet skewers or a Caesar salad. There are lots of magazines and newspapers to browse while you drop in for a Di Bella coffee and friand, a peppermint chocolate slice or citrus tart.

The atmosphere is usually buzzing with music playing. Before the courtyard garden is a small bar where you can order a Toohey's New, VB or Crown Lager beer, spirits and a limited number of wines.

Where: 72A Burringbar St, Ph: [phone]

9. Milk and Honey

WOODSMOKE gently scents the air at this end of town as the woodfired pizza begins its slow burn through the day to feed the night-time crowd. Clean and modern looking, there are polished cement floors, white walls and wenge wood tables. The kitchen is open plan, and the pizza makers are kept busy, providing a show in itself.

The pizzas are what locals and tourists alike flock here for - thin, smoky bases with pared back toppings such as prosciutto, ham or salami as well as imaginative salads, like apple and walnut.

Desserts, too, are interesting and worth saving room for - chocolate mousse with praline, and fresh vanilla ice cream or lemon curd tart with passionfruit. Milk and Honey is only open in the evenings and its popularity means it's best to book.

Where: Shop 5, 59a Station St, Ph: [phone]

10. Cafe Poinciana

HIDDEN away in an oasis garden, this licensed cafe was once two old houses, converted into this unique eating spot in 1990. It has a courtyard dining area full of mature shady jacaranda trees, as well as a rattan-roofed, open-sided area, built around a massive old mango tree. Through a doorway is a bar area where you can grab a beer or a cocktail and they'll soon be offering live music.

Hippy chic rules here - horizontal VJ walls are painted in faded multicoloured strips, there are fluttering modern versions of prayer flags, huge pendant lights and screens. Dotted around are big comfy leather couches and coffee tables and a communal table.

All the produce is fresh, local and organic when possible. The menu is eclectic but there's a slight Caribbean/South American slant in dishes like Jamaican grilled jerk chicken or a Cuban marinated fishburger. The brave can get a jump start to their day with a brunch cocktail like a Bambuddha, a champagne and guava juice.

Where: 55 Station St, Ph: [phone]

ALSO IN MULLUM

Mullumbimby Museum Market: Stuart St, third Saturday of the month.

Delissimo, Industrial Estate, Manns Rd: A wholesale store specialising in homemade biscuits with seconds available.

Three Ways Cafe, Wilson Creek Rd, Huonbrook: A great drive will bring you to this mostly vego wholefood cafe nestled in the hinterland.