Fine powder for making tracks at Thredbo

WHEN the snow is tumbling down, the untouched ski runs at Thredbo can feel like heaven on earth, writes Angela Saurine.

lantern apartments

IT'S one of those days skiers dream of. As we drive along the Alpine Way towards Thredbo, heavy snow begins to fall around us.

We haven't reached the ski tube terminal yet and we know if it's dumping this much at road level we'll have a great day on the mountain. As soon as we arrive we quickly change in the carpark toilet and head to the lifts.

At the top of Gunbarrel Express we spot a ridge covered with untracked powder to the right.

After a few delightful turns we head into the trees where we find nice, wide open stretches of virgin snow ... run, after run, after run. It is up there with the best quality snow I have ever skied in Australia, despite the wind and freezing temperatures.

It's a different story, however, when we head up Kosciuszko Express and are confronted with a complete whiteout. I can't even see a metre in front of me, soon lose my companions, and have to navigate my way down the hill at a resort I don't know well.

I figure if I just head downhill, slowly, I will get to the bottom eventually. After about 200m, visibility improves and I spot my friends about halfway down.

By now we are cold and our ski pants and gloves are soaked through.

We decide to call it a day and head to the Thredbo Alpine Hotel to thaw out in front of the large open fire.

Light, fluffy flakes continue to fall overnight and we awake to another 20cm of snow the next morning.

The Kosi Express is on hold due to strong winds, so we join the long queue for Snowgums chairlift before it opens at 8.30am. By the time we get to the top we spot the Kosi running so we ski straight over there, getting first tracks underneath the chairlift all the way to the bottom. It is one of the best runs of my life, and can only be described as heaven on earth. My thighs are burning, but I can't stop.

We follow each lift as it opens and get fresh lines each time.

We head up Karel's T-bar to Australia's highest lifted point, and ski the longest run in the country - the 3.7km Supertrail - from top to bottom.

The snow is so deep snow gums and picnic tables are buried.

I was once told that Perisher was the resort for serious skiers while Thredbo was the place to party. But my day confirms there is plenty of great skiing to be had at Thredbo too.

Thredbo has a village feel and great nightlife. One night we head to The Knickerbocker Bar and Restaurant - a jovial, European-style venue with schnapps, a talented accordion player and energetic Austrian dancers.

I choose a duck leg with broccolini and mashed potato for dinner, and don't have any room left for dessert.

The next night we head to the River Inn, which has a fun Bavarian Beer Hall with hearty meals and large outdoor terrace and barbecue which is popular on sunny days.

The other great thing about Thredbo is the range of accommodation in the village, from backpacker hostels to apartments, B&B's, lodges, hotels and chalets.

We decide to stay at Lhotsky Apartments - sister property to Lantern Apartments - which is a pleasant walk to the Village Square along a goat track past snow-covered trees and rocks and a pretty lake.

The comfortable two-storey apartment has two bedrooms with ensuite bathrooms with heated towels racks, and a slow combustion fireplace.

Best of all are the views over the mountains.

The writer travelled with assistance from Thredbo and Lantern Apartments.

Go2 - THREDBO

Getting there: Thredbo is in the NSW Snowy Mountains about 6 1/2 hours' drive from Sydney and 5 1/2-7 hours' drive from Melbourne. Snoexpress and Greyhound Australia have buses from Canberra and Sydney.

Staying there: Lantern Apartments offers a range of accommodation from one-bedroom apartments to luxury chalets. Winter prices for one-bedroom units start from $579 for three days from June 11 to 20 and $1745 for five nights from July 14 to August 17. Guests can also pay a 10 per cent deposit and a series of instalments via the Snow Season Payment Plan. Ph 1800 020 598

More: thredbo.com.au

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