Exploring the Blue Mountains' best gardens in Leura
SPRING is here, and nowhere is it more beautiful than in the Blue Mountains, discovers Brian Johnston.
THOUGH I occasionally come across eccentric people who don't like beaches, chocolate or classical music, I've yet to meet anyone who doesn't appreciate gardens.
I've seen all types in gardens, from tattooed bike riders sniffing at roses to businessmen posing under cherry blossoms.
Gardens are a delight for the soul, and surely spring is when they are at their best, at least in cold-climate destinations.
As warm sunshine gathers force, green buds emerge on the trees and bulbs produce a glorious display of yellow and red blooms.
Though the Sydney spring is relatively modest, you only need drive into the Blue Mountains to see a spectacular season.
Azaleas and rhododendrons erupt in scarlet and white, cherry blossoms produce a pink haze, and daffodils provide odes to joy along garden walls.
Many of the Blue Mountains' exotics were introduced by early migrants who missed European spring displays.
In the 1930s, Belgian-born Henri Van de Velde persuaded Danish-born landscape designer Paul Sorenson to create what's now one of Australia's most significant heritage gardens.
The gardens at Everglades Historic House feature spring blossoms such as crab apple, lilac and magnolia, and a terrace lined with weeping cherries in cascades of pink.
From one terrace, views fall away into the Jamison Valley, framed in wisteria-covered trellises whose drooping purple flowers mimic the mountains' blue haze.
Everglades is a National Trust property, but head to the Blue Mountains in early October and you get a rare opportunity to inspect private spring gardens, too.
Each year, the Leura Gardens Festival persuades private owners to open gardens to the public to raise money for the local hospital.
These gardens provide a range of sizes, styles and plants that showcase the best of spring flowers, particularly tulips.
The gardens vary from year to year, so visitors from previous festivals always have something new to admire.
Long-running festival favourite Shenstone will have its last open garden this year, as its owner is now in his mid-80s.
A marquee in Shenstone's grounds hosts horticultural talks and workshops on topics such as pruning, worm farms, sustainable gardens and the matching of exotic with native plants.
Leura Garden Festival runs from October 3-15 this year, with a $20 ticket covering entry to all the gardens, including Everglades.
A shuttle bus from Leura train station takes visitors around the gardens on a $5 all-day pass.
The festival also features art and music events on the final weekend, when stalls are set up along Leura Mall, which is lined by cherry trees.
Other cold-climate blooms at their best in spring are camellias, dogwood, iris, azaleas and bluebells.
Magnolias are the favourite of resident gardener Liz Riley at Waldorf Leura Gardens Resort, one of the original participants now returning to the festival after a long absence.
The historical Lady Fairfax Gardens, part of the resort grounds, are slowly being restored to their 1930s glory.
As well as several gorgeous magnolias, trees such as double cherries and lilac promise a fine display.
"I'm a nervous wreck, hoping everything comes off at the right time," says Riley. "Despite my helping hand, nature does its own thing."
But one thing you can be sure about. Nature never misses spring, and the result is always magnificent.
Brian Johnston was a guest of Destination NSW.
Follow his travel blog at www.thoughtfultravelwriter.com
GO2 - BLUE MOUNTAINS
Getting there
Leura is 99km west of Sydney via the Great Western Highway (M4) or rail.
Staying there
Waldorf Leura Gardens Resort is a participant in the town's garden festival and is set in landscaped gardens overlooking the golf course. Ph (02) 4784 4000
Eating there
Cafe Madeleine in Leura does excellent light lunches and terrific hot chocolates. Ph (02) 4784 3833
Doing there
Everglades Historic House & Gardens. Ph (02) 4784 1938
Leura Gardens Festival. Ph 0431 095 279
More: See visitbluemountains.com.au or Ph 1300 653 408
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