Eurobodalla Shire: Inside the hidden parts of the NSW south coast
Surrounded by crystal clear waters and hundreds of playful seals, this Aussie island gem has become my new favourite coastal escape.
Australia is no stranger to lush island escapes.
From the crystal clear waters that surround the Whitsundays, to the pines that cover Norfolk, we are spoiled for choice when it comes to island escapes.
But a tiny spot of land off the coast of NSW, just moments by boat from the sleepy township of Narooma, is a nature-lovers wonderland and an island you may never have heard of before.
After spending what felt like an eternity cooped up in my own city like almost everyone else on the east coast this winter, I plan on making one of my first trips out of lockdown to visit the Eurobodalla Shire for a long weekend of sand, sun and a magical swim with a few hundred friendly seals.
Some may not have visited the region before (or even heard of the ‘Eurobodalla Shire’, to be honest) but when you arrive you will be swept up in the natural beauty that surrounds the picturesque townships.
During my very first visit in 2020, I was busting to see how the bush and beaches between Batemans Bay and Tilba Tilba had recovered after the devastating 2019 summer bushfires.
With the region being covered by almost 80 per cent bushland, this slice of Australia had faced a double whammy of destruction from the bushfires followed by the impact COVID-19 has had on tourism across the country.
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Winding down the Princes Highway, the scars more than a year on from the devastation have begun to heal, with new life and green shoots a stark contrast to the sporadic charred logs that remain roadside.
Cruising past the white sands of Bawley Point, Pebbly Beach and South Durras – my first trip to the region was like uncovering a secret on the south coast. The beaches were untouched and almost empty as the bush rolled onto the sand, with a few kangaroos sunning themselves as we cruised on by.
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So with NSW regional travel officially open for business, this is the best way to spend a long weekend exploring one of Australia’s untouched slices of paradise.
STAY:
It’s not quite the Eurobodalla Shire, but no visit down south is complete without a stop into Bannisters by the Sea. Surrounded by the nature – and not skimping on luxury – Bannisters is a well known sea-escape for those wanting to forget the hustle and bustle of city life.
Rick Stein’s restaurant, which is just footsteps from your room, serves more seafood than you’ll know what to do with. Freshly shucked oysters, prawns on ice, fish tacos – if you’re a pescetarian you are in for an evening of heaven.
Listing a bunch of local wines, the restaurant is a real indulgence but it doesn’t come cheap, with the average main costing around $40. But with the silly season around the corner, it’s worth the splurge – especially if you opt for the restaurant’s signature ‘fish pie’ while overlooking their lush plunge pool.
Less than two hours further south, and you will arrive in the Eurobodalla Shire.
For the weekend, I spent two nights in Narooma which is close to a five-hour drive from Sydney or two from Canberra and is the perfect base for everything in the region.
The beauty of Narooma – and landing a room at The Whale Inn – is that you’re just footsteps from the best restaurants, bars and beaches the region has to offer.
The Inn itself it quaint and unassuming. There’s the simple necessities needed for a beach stay and some pretty sensational views. But let’s be honest, you’ll be spending more time on the sand than inside.
EAT:
Sitting on top of a hill, the almost unobstructed views from the Whale Inn’s in-house restaurant are second to none. Grab a seat at sunset, and order a round of the region’s fresh Sydney rock oysters while watching the sun go down is a pretty spectacular way to start your stay.
The prices are decent given it’s a local favourite, and you won’t walk away needing a spot to fill.
The new kid on the block, and a must-visit while in the region is the new Merivale hangout called Quarterdeck. Set on Narooma’s Wagonga Inlet, Quarterdeck's menu uses fresh produce sourced from the south coast. Some of the key dishes include the Snapper ceviche and the grilled pork belly tacos. Grab a drink, and enjoy the sunset from this new favourite.
For a real mid-arvo meal like no other, you can’t go past a few hours on the water throwing back a some local oysters straight from the Clyde River. Think of this experience with Region-X Kayaks as a wine tour on water … but with oysters.
You paddle to some of the most successful oyster farmers on the south coast and learn about how they farm in Batemans Bay. But the best bit of course is that you get to taste test some of the freshest oysters possible taken from the river moments before they land in your mouth. From just $59 for the tour, it’s a standout experience in the region – especially at sunset.
All that physical activity calls for a cold one, especially in the middle of summer.
If you’re in the mood for a local brew, stop by local hangout Big Niles for a paddle of beers or just a pint made on site.
It’s off the beaten track in Dalmeny, but the shipping container is loved by locals and with a bit of luck, you might catch Niles himself between drinks.
PLAY:
No visit to the region is complete without a trip to Montague Island off the coast of Narooma. Surrounded by a few hundred friendly locals (yes, I’m talking about the resident fur seals), this is a nature encounter like no other. The trip itself is about 20 minutes off the coast, but once you arrive on to the island you won’t want to leave.
As the second largest island off the coast of NSW, what brings tourists to the island is the abundance of seals and Little penguins – both of which will join you for a swim.
As you can only get there with a chartered tour, Wazza – who has been running tours for more than 20 years – knows all the best spots for a seal swim.
And if you’re in no mood to leave, you can even rent out the lush lighthouse residence for a few nights – with the lighthouse on the southern end of the island available for overnight stays.
Keeping on the adventure theme, take a drive along the coast to Broulee for a surf lesson. The waves are small and the water is crystal clear, making it the perfect training ground for first-timers.
Instructor Shane from the Broulee Surf School will give you a good laugh and is as patient as they come.
But from sand to the surf, there’s really no better way to take in all the far south coast has to offer than with a trip in the sky.
Now, a short flight with South Coast Seaplanes from Moruya river start from $188 for a 15 minute flight, so while it’s an investment the views are well worth it every dollar.
I jumped on the Montague Island tour, which went for around 40 minutes along the coastline and out over the island.
With the hinterland on one side and the island on the other, the photo opportunities are endless – and really makes the best way to end your stay.
This journalist visited the Eurobodalla Shire as a guest of Eurobodalla Tourism.
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