Conquering Mount Kosciuszko

FROM glorioius sunsets to granite boulders, muster your strength and hit the track to experience all that Mount Kosciuszko has to offer.

A camp site along granite rocks at picturesque Mount Kosciuszko. Picture: Supplied

WE HAVEN'T even reached the top of the driveway and I'm tempted to ask "are we there yet?"

At this point, the prospect of a two day, nearly 25km trek through Kosciuszko National Park in the NSW Snowy Mountains is terrifying.

We've just left Stillwell Lodge at Charlotte Pass, where we spent a cosy night wining and dining around the fireplace. Rather than giving me strength for the journey, it has made me want to hibernate.

In a few breathless minutes, we reach our starting point and my motivation presents itself in the form of an inspirational view. Before me is a landscape of broad mountains, painted by the varying shades of alpine grasses and herbs. Gnarled snow gums are dotted here and there, but few trees grow at this altitude. In their place are mighty granite boulders, sculpted by Ice Age glaciers.

Like Lord of the Rings
Staring at the rock clusters is like looking at clouds – with a little imagination they take the form of mythical beasts and warriors. In the distance, behind a theatrical wisp of mist, Australia's highest mainland peak looms. It conjures romantic notions of the Lord of the Rings expedition to Mt Doom.

But unlike the hobbits' perilous journey, my group of seven is doing it in comfort. Local touring group K7 Adventures has all the thinking and planning taken care of. As we trek, our campsite is being prepared high in the mountains. Wheelbarrows are used to transport the gear, as vehicles are forbidden beyond a certain point.

Leading us there is alpine riverkeeper and K7 Adventures guide Acacia Rose. Daughter of ecologist Dr Alec Costin, who was instrumental in having grazing banned in the Snowy Mountains, Acacia has the mountains in her blood.

Falling into step as we ascend from a Snowy River crossing, she explains that, unlike her father, she is more interested in appreciating the beauty of the flowers than learning their names. Along the way, she points out the incredible diversity of low-growing plants and surreal glacial features, from lakes to gorges and rocky peaks.

We share snacks from our day packs overlooking the mystical Blue Lake. A massive slope leading down to the lake is covered in boulders, like a landslide frozen in time. Our lunch-stop view down to Lady Northcote's Canyon is equally awe-inspiring.

Top of the mountain
It's late afternoon by the time we conquer Kosciuszko and pose for the obligatory triumph photos. From there, it's a short walk to the campsite, where a pot of vegetable curry is bubbling on a butane stove. Another K7 guide, nature photographer Mike Edmondson, leads us to a nearby rock crop bathed in dusk light and shares some photography tips.

The moment the sun dips behind Kosciuszko, the mild day turns into a chilly, wind-whipped night. We huddle around the mess tent and gulp our dinner by the light of head torches and billions of stars. Acacia's partner and fellow K7 Adventures guide Peter Cocker keeps the dinner conversation rolling with stories of his mountaineering expeditions across the globe, perilous rescues and near-misses.

The next morning, with stomachs full of fruit and porridge, we follow Peter on the final leg of the journey. For those of us who have struggled with the concept of squatting behind a rock and using human waste containers, one of the most delightful sights along the way is Australia's highest toilet.

The next sign of civilisation is Australia's highest restaurant and bar, Eagles Nest. Settling in for lunch, we peel off jackets, rest aching limbs and marvel at the view of Thredbo Village and mountains as far as the eye can see.

I came, I conquered, and now there's nothing left to do but order the ultimate comfort food: a beef burger, fries and hot chocolate.

 Getting there
The Snowy Mountains are a five to six-and-a-half-hour drive from Sydney.
Flights are available to Canberra and Cooma with Qantas and Aeropelican
Hummingbird Charters has transfers between Canberra, Cooma and the Snowy Mountains

 Accommodation
Try Stillwell Lodge, at Charlotte Pass.

To do
K7 Adventures runs a range of tours in the Snowy Mountains
Visit www.visitnsw.com for more information.

The writer travelled courtesy of Tourism NSW and NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service

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 Top Tips: NSW Destination Guide