Classic tastes of rainbow land

SHERIDAN Rogers experiences Lismore's laid-back lifestyle where the mix of old country town and alternative lifestyles finds a happy balance.

Northern Rivers ... on a warm sunny day, it's heavenly to sit outside under the trees – and on a rainy day, you might catch a rainbow / Lismore City Council

IT'S a sleepy Monday night in Lismore, northern New South Wales, and I'm driving around the CBD looking for somewhere to dine.

A few places are open at the Wilsons River end of Woodlark St including a fresh bright vegetarian cafe called Sweet Pea Gelato and stylish-looking Zen Sushi. Both are proudly displaying "Open until 8pm" signs, but they're a bit casual for dinner.

There's movement opposite at the Richmond Hotel so I wander over and am tempted by the menu at Miss Lizzie's, a smart brasserie adjacent to the pub.

It's hard to choose between the oven-baked half shell scallops, the pan-tossed Asian-style prawns or the veal shank with lemon thyme and tomato ragout – and they're just for starters.

I settle on the char-grilled prime rib eye on the bone, served with potato gratin, vegetables and rich port wine jus. It's pink and juicy and slightly charred on the outside and the potato gratin is rich and delicious.

There are a number of good wines by the glass, which means I can enjoy a wine with my meal and still be able to drive safely back to my B&B 20 minutes out of town.

Not that I'm in a hurry to leave; there's a warm buzzy feeling to the room and some good jazz playing in the background. Not bad for a Monday night in a country town in regional NSW.

It's not until later in the week that you'll find a number of other good eateries open at night, including the award-winning pizzeria Fire In The Belly, the smart Italian La Baracca (for tasty seafood and pasta dishes), Left Bank (for inspired contemporary salads and pastas) – and, last but not least, the excellent Paupiettes.

Owner and chef David Forster is a local lad who trained at Paupiettes and eventually took over with wife Shirley 16 years ago. They expanded the French menu to include Asian and Mediterranean-inspired dishes, but are now returning to classics like an intensely flavoured sweet potato and prawn bisque and melt-in-the-mouth red wine and tomato braised lamb shoulder. There's coq au vin too, and regular customers won't let him take the duck confit or pork belly dishes off the menu.

Despite its rather austere atmosphere, you'll travel a long way to find food of this standard in country NSW. A busy regional centre, Lismore is better known for its lunchtime eateries and cafes.

Dubbed "the alternative capital of Australia" in the early 1970s and situated in what's called the "rainbow region" not far from the hippie town of Nimbin, it's a mix of old country town and alternative lifestyles.

If you're in town on a Tuesday morning, wander out to the Rainbow Region Organic markets at the showground where you'll get a taste of 1960s style hippiedom.

Touted as the only true organic market in the area, you can sample injera (Ethiopian pancakes), dosas (South Indian pancakes), local organic coffee, wheat grass juice, organic macadamias and Goanna Bakery breads.

Later in the morning, grab a copy of the Cafe & Culture Trail Tour from the Visitor Information Centre and take a walk around the thriving shopping block (known by the locals as the "blockie").

Each of the cafes on the trail showcases the works of local artists, creating what is essentially a living gallery on the block.

Included on the trail is Left Bank Cafe (in a pretty setting next to the art gallery), The Loft, Mecca Cafe (a true mecca for art deco lovers, this is Lismore's original retro diner-style cafe with a modern touch) and Caddies Coffee (where I tasted some terrific lemon myrtle fudge).

Cake lovers will enjoy Dragonfly (all the cakes are baked in-house and offer something different) and chocolate lovers will be in heaven at The Chocolate Bar. Trust me, the liquid chocolate is well worth trying.

Interspersed between the cafes you'll find plenty of quirky retro and secondhand shops, art galleries and antique shops plus a good kitchen shop called Pepper Tree Kitchen, which conducts cookery classes featuring local chefs.

Foodies will love Howard's Butchery & Delicatessen in South Lismore, though it's easier getting there by car than by foot (great for stocking a hamper or barbecue if you're staying in a B&B out of town).

Ten minutes or so out of town is Eltham Pantry. It's set in a wooden cottage overlooking green pastures and pecan trees, with excellent coffee and great cafe food (the mushroom lasagne is divine).

On a warm sunny day, it's heavenly to sit outside under the trees or on the balcony imbibing the fresh country air – and on a rainy day, you might even catch a rainbow or two.

The writer was a guest of Lismore Council

The Sunday Telegraph