Best food, wine, tours and hotels in Perth, Western Australia

THERE'S plenty to tempt just about all the senses in Australia's fastest-growing capital city.

Ryan Mossny leading a Two Feet and a Heartbeat walking tour in Perth. Picture: Supplied

BEST FOR DINING EXPERIENCES

Most Australians know how phenomenal our country's food scene is, particularly along the east coast. But "Perth is surging" in equal serves, according to Lord Mayor Lisa Scaffidi, who acknowledges the rise in funky bars springing up all over the city to complement the high-quality food and beverage experiences on offer.

"For a growing workforce and all the professional activity in the city, there was definitely a need for more bars and certainly more restaurants," Scaffidi says. "We've had a lot of high-end restaurants come into the frame and they're world-class, but what we're also seeing now is the development of a lot of mid-range restaurants coming into the city, too."

So what tickles the tastebuds of one of the world's most popular lord mayors? (she came second in last year's World Mayor Project). "My favourite cafe restaurant is Bar 1 and I love the new Trustee in the city but I've just discovered a new restaurant in Fremantle called La Sosta which is to die for - fantastic for cafe style. And for fine dining, Print Hall is also amazing."

Print Hall is an institution in Perth, a four-level dining and bar precinct that pays homage to its heritage-listed history, the old Newspaper House on St George's Tce. From the freshly baked pastries and in-house coffee roasters right up to a gastronomical adventure that awaits in the main dining room where gun chef David Coomer is driving a menu that includes one of the best degustation experiences on the planet, the options suit all-comers. Up the road, Trustee is also carving out a big reputation with bold beef dishes, rustic European peasant fare and killer desserts in a stunning setting in another of Perth's heritage buildings.

BEST FOR AQUATIC ADVENTURE

To swim with a wild dolphin in its natural setting is to truly understand the special relationship these lovable creatures have with humans, as Rockingham Wild Encounters founder Terry Howson well knows through his Swim With Wild Dolphins tour experience.

He's worked incredibly hard to make it all happen, too, since setting off 23 years ago in his father's 6m boat from "sunrise to sunset" every day to swim with the dolphins until he finally befriended them and earned their trust.

All up, it took him seven months in a display of unwavering patience and determination, and not a skerrick of food was used to lure them, either.

"Ours is a really natural partnership and we're really happy with that. I don't look into the spiritual side of it too much but I'm open-minded enough to know we're witnessing a connection between humans and the dolphins, most definitely," Howson says.

Based on the shores of the Shoalwater Islands Marine Park, only 45 minutes south of Perth, this multi-award winning marine wildlife cruise company is becoming world renowned for its Swim With Wild Dolphins experience, but also offers tours to Penguin Island and Seal Island as well.

After a quick run-through of the dos and don'ts, your group links up and jumps in, and before you know it the dolphins emerge in the distance and join in for a play and a splash. Best of all, we're not talking about a mere few minutes - the dolphins not only hang around for 75 to 90 minutes but they swim within a metre, mimicking you and showing off.

BEST FOR SMALL LUXURY HOTELS

West Australians have a rich history of casual elegance and The Terrace Hotel in Perth's "West End" on the corner of St Georges Tce and Mount St embodies that spirit while also retaining the building's historic charm. The hotel was originally known as Bishop's Grove and was built in 1892 by the Anglican Church. After a recent major revamp this sparkling 15-room deluxe hotel with bar and dining facilities in the heart of town is a cosmopolitan smash hit.

"The renovation has been very sympathetic to the age of the building," functions and sales co-ordinator Martina Long says in a Serbian accent that fits like an elegant glove in line with the European chic the hotel exudes. "It's stylish and intimate, yet has that open space vibe people love."

Upon entry, dazzling crystal chandeliers, fireplaces and luxurious furnishings are hard to miss as a beautifully restored jarrah staircase leads up to the rooms, two of which are disabled-friendly either side of the elevator. The Art-Deco style of the Front Terrace is reminiscent of the 1920s and faces on to St Georges Tce providing a people-watching space while you dine or enjoy live jazz. Two large front rooms either side of the main entry are for the internal dining area and there is a shimmering oak bar out the back, inviting wine cellar and private function room. The rooms are exquisite with custom furnishings, high-end fixtures and comfy pillows, plush beds and fluffy towels.

Beds are in demand in Perth and, though pricey, it's a case of getting what you pay for at The Terrace, which is in a great location close to all the action.

BEST FOR WALKING TOURS

Small group guided walking tours are often the best way to explore a city as you take your time soaking up the sights, learning its history.

Perth's Two Feet and A Heartbeat Walking Tours operate every day of the week with its finger on the pulse of the city's heartbeat.

It's a great way to get your head around what's what and where in Perth before digging deeper in an exploratory sense.

Ryan Mossny leading a Two Feet and a Heartbeat walking tour in Perth. Picture: Supplied

"We try to do things a little differently to your traditional tour and incorporate how the past has impacted the city and connect all the dots with what's happening in the city now, including some of the history, heritage and culture," Two Feet's Ryan Mossny says.

"We specialise in heritage tours, but we also do food and wine tours, and small bar tours."

Given an exclusive combination of all their tours in a one-hour brisk burst, it doesn't take long to realise Perth is moving quickly as new developments such as the $2.6 billion Elizabeth Quay project promise to bring the Swan River closer to the city and the new Perth City Link mission aims to reunite the CBD with the Northbridge entertainment district.

"In the past decade things have changed in Perth dramatically," Mossny says. "It's now the fastest-growing capital city in Australia. A lot of it is on the back of the mining boom."

BEST FOR WINE REGIONS

Swan Valley may be small on the Australian wine stage, but it's big on quality and diversity in a food and wine trail winding around a 32km loop and taking in more than 150 wineries, vibrant craft breweries, restaurants, distilleries, galleries and shops.

"We get 2.1 million day visitors a year to the Swan Valley," says Sascha Stone, the City of Swan's tourism development officer.

Recent additions pulling the crowds are WA's oldest confectionary company Whistler's Chocolate Co, a new cellar door at three generations-old Talijancich Wines, and a blend of rustic and modern charm at The Cheese Barrel cafe.

"The thing that really sets us apart is we have 180 years of history here," Stone says.

"So you'll often find the people who serve you at the cellar doors are the people who have grown and picked the grapes, lovingly made the food or crafted the products." swanvalley.com.au

The writer was a guest of Tourism Western Australia.

Mermaids in a tank at the Perth Fringe Festival. Picture: Supplied

MAKE IT HAPPEN

Getting there

Virgin Australia flies from Australia's east coast to Perth. Virgin Australia flies direct to Perth from Sydney four times on a weekday.

3 WAYS TO DO PERTH

1. Budget

See: The Round House and Whalers Tunnel in High St, Fremantle. Take in the views of the Indian Ocean and Bathers Beach.

Sleep: Perth City YHA Backpackers in Wellington St is the only 4.5-star hostel in WA. Share rooms from $35 a night and double private rooms with bathroom from $108.

Eat: Alfred's Kitchen in Guildford has been serving up old-fashioned hearty feeds since 1946. For $10 or less you can tuck into burgers, steak sangas or pea and ham soup.

Do: Head up to one of the best vantage points in the world, have a picnic or simply spend anafternoon wandering around and relaxing in beautiful Kings Park and Botanic Gardens.

2. Mid-range

See: Time it right and be a part of all the magic and fun of the Perth Fringe Festival from January 24 to February 23 next year.

Sleep: The Cottesloe Beach Hotel is a 100-year-old landmark Perth institution. The hotel recently underwent a comprehensive and very stylish makeover. Catch a sunset over the Indian Ocean from one of the grand old hotel's 10 second-floor rooms. Great dining areas and bars downstairs are a bonus.

Eat: Fascinating and thriving Moore & Moore Cafe in the West End of Fremantle where the coffee's great, the food's a winner and the decor is quirky.

Do: For a spooky night adventure try the Fremantle Tram Tours Ghostly Tour as you wander through Freo Prison and the Arts Centre and Museum Grounds (formerly The Asylum). Adults $70, children $50.

3. Luxury

See: The Van Gogh, Dali and Beyond exhibition of almost 200 works at The Art Gallery of Western Australia until the end of the year.

Sleep: Luxury accommodation is redefined at shiny and new Crown Metropol on the banks of the Swan River - plush, spacious, stylish and hi-tech entertainment facilities take it to a new level.

Eat: Fit for a king in Kings Park, Fraser's Restaurant offers some of the best seafood and local produce in WA, not just Perth. Enjoy the views while you feast and sip the goods chosen from a stellar wine list, too.

Do: Catch a show in the stunning Heath Ledger Theatre, State Theatre Centre of Western Australia.

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