Beautiful National Parks on New South Wales' Northern Rivers
NSW's Northern Rivers region features a spectacular coastline and fertile inland valleys - perfect for sunny holidays, writes Brian Johnston.
It's not hard to see how the Northern Rivers region gets its name if you stay in Yamba, where the Clarence River empties into the ocean and the hinterland is a confusion of lagoons and water channels.
You can see the village of Iluka across the estuary, but by road you have to meander 40-odd kilometres along waterways just to get there.
A good way to see the watery setting is on a Sunday river cruise with live music and a convivial atmosphere.
Yamba is the sort of coastal holiday destination that families return to every year - and even into the next generation.
Estuary and ocean fishing, bowling under the Norfolk pines, golf, horse riding and water sports will keep the whole family amused.
And with 11 beaches, you could relax in a different spot every day of the week, and try everything from snorkelling to kite surfing or surfing.
To the south, Yuraygir National Park has 65km of undeveloped coastline with tranquil campsites and peaceful picnic spots.
Activities in Yuraygir include kayaking and boating on the Sandon River, whale watching, surfing and bushwalking.
Further information: yambansw.com.au
Where to Eat: Recently redeveloped Yamba Shores Tavern is right on the waterfront and has a bistro, cafe and restaurant, as well as a kids' playground.
BEST FOR RELAXATION: EVANS HEAD
There are few more relaxed spots along the far north coast of NSW than Evans Head, where the hustle of city life becomes a distant memory and the lazy, hazy days of summer take over.
The coastal town - the first commercial prawning port in Australia - retains a rather old-fashioned air and isn't for those looking for bustle and night life.
What you do get, however, is a region surrounded by protected bushland and wetlands and flanked by national park, great surfing beaches and a river that's perfect for fishing, boating and safe swimming.
Get an overview of this beautiful setting from Razorback Outlook, and walk or cycle through nearby Bundjalung and Broadwater national parks, where you might see kangaroos and echidnas. If you can make it here in spring time, then wildflowers are a spectacular reward.
The 3km Salty Lagoon track in Broadwater National Park takes you through wetlands full of birds, including herons, ibis, rare jabirus and sea eagles.
Just inland from Evans Head, Broadwater is noted for its sugar mill and antique shops, or you can visit the nearby New Italy Museum, which tells the story of the region's Italian immigrants.
Further information: evansheadnsw.com.au
Where to pause: Travelling the Pacific Highway and don't want to turn off to Evans Head? Stop at Woodburn, where there are picnic tables and recreation on the river.
BEST FOR ACTIVITIES: BALLINA
Many people think of Ballina simply as the location of the regional airport that serves as the holiday gateway to this scenic Northern Rivers region. That's a shame, since Ballina itself is a lively, thriving town that has plenty to offer visitors, especially those looking for a family-friendly alternative to Byron Bay, 30km to the north.
Ballina's beaches are beautiful and offer a great variety. You can take four-wheel-drives on to South Ballina Beach, enjoy horse riding along the sand, or surf the famous break at Seven Mile Beach at Lennox Head.
Freshwater Lake Ainsworth, separated from the ocean by sand dunes and curiously coloured by the surrounding tea trees, is the place for kayaking and swimming - the water is even said to have rejuvenating properties.
The whole family can also enjoy walking, cycling or rollerblading along Ballina's 14km of dedicated pathways.
A day's fishing on the Richmond River, or birdwatching at zones dedicated to the region's fabulous variety of waterbirds, also make for a good day out in beautiful surrounds.
Other activities include paintball, golf, tenpin bowling and skydiving over the coast.
Further information: discoverballina.com.au
Best for Camping: Shaws Bay Holiday Park sits at the mouth of the Richmond River, a five-minute drive from Ballina, and has on-site cabins and powered caravan sites.
BEST FOR LIFESTYLE: BYRON BAY
Byron Bay stands on a sweeping coastline of sandy beaches and turquoise waters where humpback whales, turtles and dolphins gurgle.
The climate is one of perpetual summer: you can swim, surf the waves, scuba-dive among manta rays and tropical fish, or kayak out among the dolphins.
In the hinterland, rugged mountains erupt in subtropical forest, macadamia farms and ancient volcanoes.
All this makes Byron Bay a magnet for anyone wanting a little time out - or even a lifetime. But while there are
still plenty of ageing hippies around, New Agers have since brought with them more sophisticated tastes.
If you think wind chimes are so yesterday, it's time for a rejuvenating spa. If vegetarian dahl seems spartan, then try sea scallops with cauliflower veloute at a suave restaurant.
The cappuccinos in the cafes are topnotch, penthouses overlook the beach, and shiatsu massage and meditation workshops cater to the well-heeled.
Over it all presides the town's famous lighthouse, which marks Australia's easternmost point. Locals head up the cliffs towards the lighthouse in the early morning, taking one of the most spectacular jogging routes in Australia.
If the sun and limpid blue waters don't cure your stresses and worries, the dancing of the dolphins surely will.
Further information: visitbyronbay.com
Best for Cruising: Byron Bay Eco Cruises takes you out on the Brunswick River for an entertaining guided tour of the riverine environment.
BEST FOR NATURE: TWEED HEADS
Tweed Heads sits in the compact Tweed area, which has less than 40km of coastline and a little rump of hinterland squeezed up against the Queensland border.
But it's hard to beat the combination of subtropical climate, fantastic beaches, national parks and perhaps
the most beautiful scenery anywhere along the NSW coast. From Tweed Heads itself, you can take a cruise on the river, or if you want to go on an adventure, hire a houseboat and set off on your very own Huckleberry Finn exploration.
Coastal towns such as Cabarita and Kingscliff (renowned for its surf breaks) offer an alternative to Tweed Heads, and have increasingly sophisticated shopping, dining and accommodation scenes, without having lost any of their laid-back atmosphere.
Don't miss heading inland, however, to enjoy the Tweed's stunning scenery of farmland and rainforest, backed by the distinctive cones of ancient volcanoes.
The heritage village of Uki has plenty of eco-friendly hideaways and country B&Bs, and a lovely river walk where you might spot platypus.
Murwillumbah, surrounded by sugarcane, banana plantations and dairy farms, is a good base for an exploration of Nightcap, Mount Jerusalem and Wollumbin national parks, where lyrebirds gather to dance under towering palms.
Further information: tweedtourism.com.au
Where to dive: Cook Island off Fingal Head provides up-close encounters with loggerhead and green turtles, as well as rays, wobbegongs and leopard sharks.