Bathurst's country food scene

BATHURST has evolved into a foodie centre, writes Brian Johnston while tucking into cakes and sipping schnapps.

escape Bathurst

"YOU must have a lemon tart - they're out of this world," says local B&B owner Christine Le Fevre firmly. "Until you've had one, or unless you die, you've no idea what it's like to go to heaven."

But lemon tarts aren't the only temptation at Legall's Patisserie, where a stream of locals depart, balancing boxes of profiteroles, macaroons and fresh croissants.

Behind the glass display case, the pear and almond tart looks like it could send me into raptures.

I never expected to find heaven in Bathurst, or even a decent coffee.

How wrong I was.

This elegant country town may be best known for V8 Supercars but the race is on to make it a regional food centre.

When Philippe Legall came to Bathurst in 1987 from the South of France, he had a culinary shock.

No longer.

"Bathurst has certainly changed for the better," Legall says. "It's a lovely place now with a great food culture, thanks to wonderful local produce."

To see what he means, I have only to walk along Keppel St from his patisserie and into Al Dente, which sources ham from Orange, smokehouse pate from Cowra and pesto from Mudgee. And at Hub Cafe the food is regional, with an inviting medley of influences from the Middle East, Asia and Italy.

However, I save myself for lunch at Cobblestone Lane across the centre of town. Behind a narrow colonial shopfront, the restaurant is a contemporary space, with wooden floors and an open kitchen that reminds one of a Parisian bistro.

My waitress recommends a local shiraz viognier, a great companion to my kangaroo potpie with juniper berries, porter ale and potatoes.

If it weren't for the mid-morning lemon tart, the poached pear and gingerbread pudding would certainly have been next.

Instead, I walk down the street to Country Fruit, an award-winning greengrocer that has been on this spot since 1937 and in Bathurst since the 1890s. Fourth-generation owner Craig Sharah proudly shows me the regional produce, from Rosnay figs to Orange apples.

The tasting table entices with cheeses, caramelised garlic-chilli jam and relishes, perfect for a picnic.

Le Fevre has recommended Church Bar, noted for its wood-fired pizza, for dinner.

"You can experience treats like Chinese five-spice duck or caramelised sweet potato and pumpkin. Not to mention there's a bar with lager on tap and live music at weekends."

Before that, I drive into the countryside to Stone Pine, a distillery started four years ago by a former Scottish whisky worker.

Ian Glen makes liqueurs from local summer berries and cherries, schnapps from apples and pears and gin from lemon myrtle.

"I wanted to have an open feel in the distillery because few people have ever been to one," Glen says. "Here, they can really see what's going on."

I soon learn that Serbian oak barrels impart fruitcake notes with a cherry character to rum, while US oak has a distinctive vanilla flavour.

"Some of the rum is lost through evaporation they call it the angel's share in Scotland," Glen says.

"But about twice as much disappears here thanks to the climate so Australian angels are having a merry time."

Indeed they are. Good gin and lemon tarts are all the rage in heaven. And to get there, you just have to cross the Blue Mountains. 

The writer visited Bathurst courtesy of Destination NSW.

** Go2

BATHURST

Getting there

Bathurst is 200km west of Sydney via Katoomba and Lithgow.
Rex Airlines flies from Sydney to Bathurst.
See regionalexpress.com.au or ph 13 17 13.

Staying there

ishop's Court is a beautifully restored mansion with a magnificent lounge and dining rooms and very hospitable owners.
See bishopscourt bathurst.com.au or ph 6332 4447.

Eating there

Al Dente, 88b Keppel St, see aldente.bathurst.com.au, ph 6331 0531.
Church Bar, 1 Ribbon Gang Lane, see churchbar.com.au or ph 6334 2300.
Cobblestone Lane, 2/173-179 George St, see cobblestonelane.com.au or ph 6331 2202.
Country Fruit, 165 George St, ph 6331 1742.
Hub Cafe, 52 Keppel St, ph 6332 1565.
Legall's Patisserie, 56 Keppel St, ph 6331 5800.

Doing there

Stone Pine Distillery, 218 Gormans Hills Rd, see stonepinedistillery.com.au or ph 6332 1517.

More: See visitbathurst.com.au or ph 1800 681 000.