Banrock Station wetlands wildlife thriving again after drought

THE sounds of breeding and feeding are deafening on the once-parched South Australian floodplains.

Chrisophe Tourenq, the wetlands manager at the Banrock Station wetlands. Picture: Simon Cross

THE frogs are freaking, the birds are going ballistic, gorged goannas are resting, thirsty river red gums are giving thanks and the yabbies are, well, yabbying.

Days after a sluice gate opened to allow a life-giving flow of Murray River water into a parched wetland in South Australia's Riverland, the sound of breeding and feeding is deafening. Banjo frogs, Pearson's tree frogs and spotted grass frogs battle with distinctive croaks in suddenly lush lagoons. Red gums, black box, lignum and more are drinking deeply and creatures with feather, fur and scales are romancing.

The ancient cycle of life is being played out with human help at the 1000ha of internationally Ramsar-listed floodplains and wetlands at Banrock Station at Kingston-on-Murray.

Locks that now regulate the Murray into a tamed series of pools also cut off the natural cycle of wetting and drying, which wetland flora and fauna have adapted to over millennia of flood and drought.

Banrock's wetlands were flooded for 68 years, drowning plants that liked water but also relied on the occasional dry spell. Germination and mating signals were rudely put on hold.

In 1993 the wetlands were dried and 60 tonnes of carp were stranded. Now a winery with 250ha of vines on the overall 1800ha property and an environmental focus giving the brand international green clout, Banrock was last fully dried then artificially flooded from the Murray in 2008.

Banrock Station wetlands the day after the Murray River floodgates were opened. Picture: Simon Cross

A natural flood in 2011 bathed the wetland but this year it was parched, which saw
5 tonnes of carp gorged on by tree goannas, and dormant native flora and fauna bracing for action. That started on September 4 when a sluice gate was opened to allow flow from the Murray to gradually flood the land, under an environmental licence.

The slow flow of the Murray and the vast area of flatlands means it was a creeping flow that took almost a month to cover the floodplain. As it does, the spreading noise of breeding and feeding signals the plants and animals are alert to the ancient cycle of life. There is now a frenzy of breeding under way.

Visitors to the Wine and Wetlands Centre sited high on the ridge line overlooking the wetlands and river have grand views of the natural phenomenon, and can easily hear the symphony of life under way.

The centre does a brisk trade in wine tasting and merchandise as well as having plenty of information about the local environment, drawing about 85,000 visitors a year. Its deck area is fabulous to take in the views and enjoy coffee and cake or or a long lunch savour plenty of local produce matched to Banrock wines.

However, the views soon prompt itchy feet.

There are kilometres of boardwalks winding through and over the region's wetlands, offering four walks ranging from a quick stickybeak to several hours of strolls.

Bird hides hidden in the trees give great views of many of the 161 local species. And you can't miss the noise of the frogs from the once- dormant frogs which creatures now can be heard from the distant visitor centre.

In billabongs, native fish and invertebrates are revelling in the floods, as are the many plants and trees which like both the dry and a drink.

Banrock Station wetlands after the Murray River floodgates were opened. Picture: Simon Cross

The sluice gate has a carp trap stopping larger fish from entering from the Murray, giving the natives a break. When the next dry comes, the natives will naturally head back to the river via a second exit while any baby carp that slipped through the trap and grew will congregate in ever shrinking ponds and die.

Wetlands manager Christophe Tourenq says the flood is timed to coincide with the natural cycle when snow melting from the Australian Alps would swell the Murray's floodplains in wet years.

"We are mimicking the cycle of drying and wetting that this land relies on,'' he says. "The wetlands have to dry, then be flooded again. We are seeing all sorts of species in a healthy ecosystem.'' From plants such as pigface to slender knotweed, from banjo frogs to pelicans, wetland residents are drinking in a good time.

Banrock Station does not have visitor accommodation, but the lure of the Murray made the choice for an overnight stay easy. We headed upriver to Berri where Houseboat Adventures have five luxurious craft berthed at the marina.

Flagship Sensational Spirit has five bedrooms, each with an ensuite, and facilities from a large spa and bar on the shaded sundeck through to full kitchen for your home on the water. And you only need a car licence to drive it.

After a day seeing the Murray give life to wetlands, it was easy to cruise into the sunset with a cold drink, just rolling on the river.

The writer was a guest of Banrock Station.

GO2 BANROCK STATION

Getting there

Banrock Station is just over two hours' drive northeast of Adelaide at Kingston-on-Murray in the Riverland.

Doing there

Banrock Station is open 9am-4pm weekdays, 9am-5pm weekends. Closed Good Friday, Christmas Day and New Year's Day. Cafe opens from 9am, grazing plates available from 10am, lunch from noon to 3pm. Free entry. Guided walks available on public holidays.

More info

banrockstation.com.au

houseboatadventure.com.au