Ride in the lap of luxury

WITH ensuites, entertainment and a lounge and bar – the Indian Pacific train lets you travel across Australia in style.

OH, how things have changed. When I moved from Adelaide to Perth as a child, we went by train: the Indian Pacific.

It wasn't that we had spare time to cross two-thirds of the country, or that we thought we would treat the journey as a holiday, it was just that it was cheaper.

The trek wasn't the tourist attraction it is now. Back then, the governments ran the service and it was basic.

Great Southern Railway oversees the operation these days and extended services are due to begin in coming months.

One noticeable difference is that the railway today spans the continent. I remember having to get off at Port Pirie to connect by coach to Adelaide. The Indian Pacific now runs without interruption to Sydney's Central station, and it was there I climbed aboard recently.

I was invited by GSR for its annual Outback Christmas trip, so no bench seat for me this time to share with two others for the three-day trip; I had a twin-share Gold Kangaroo sleeper to myself.

This sleeper is much the same as a cabin on a cruise ship. In this case, however, two bunk-style beds are tucked away during the day so you can sit in your compartment and enjoy the not-so-changing scenery that passes your window.

Just like a cruise ship cabin, there are a couple of cupboards to hang clothes, room to tuck away your suitcases, and a table big enough for a laptop.

Then there is the ensuite – a piece of engineering genius. This is your toilet and shower, in one: the toilet and sink fold away, then you pull across the shower curtain (so your towels and toiletries don't get wet) and have your shower.

You don't need to spend time alone in your compartment because there is so much to do, on and off the train, as you make the 4352km, three-day journey from Sydney to Perth.

Musical train

Each year, a different musical talent joins the annual Christmas train trip and sings carols with schoolchildren at each of the scheduled stops, as well as a few extra tracks.

In recent years, Jimmy Barnes, Guy Sebastian and Human Nature have entertained along the way. Swing sensation David Campbell and his band were on board for our trip, performing mostly on the platforms.

It felt akin to a concert at Wembley Stadium when we arrived at Bathurst. The train was a few hours late and some schoolchildren had waited patiently.

There was a buzz of excitement as Campbell and his band walked through a tunnel under the tracks and up onto the platform. The kids went wild and spent most of the gig on stage hanging onto Campbell's legs. By the time he left, one schoolgirl had asked him to marry her.

Back on board, the lounge and bar car are popular places to pass time. They serve drinks and snacks, but don't spoil your appetite with too many nibblies. In the dining car there are hot breakfasts, two-course lunches and three-course dinners, and you get choices at most sittings.

The dining room is also a good place to meet people. The Gold Kangaroo car carries 96 passengers and 48 can dine together.

Some passengers try to sit with a different couple at each meal. I knew no one on the trip before it began, and made sure I had at least one new person at my table each time I dined.

Go for Gold

The food is one of the major changes made by GSR in the past 20 years. On my last rail crossing of Australia, the tucker from the small kiosk-like bar included sandwiches toasted while still in a plastic bag.

Now in the Red section, they serve meals, usually with a dessert, that cost no more than $12. Snacks, alcohol and soft drinks are also available.

There is also a Red Kangaroo lounge, for the use of both sleeper-compartment and seat passengers. The day-night seats are much better: reclining, lounge-style chairs, with good leg room and individual reading lights.

I chatted with a few of the passengers who had hailed from more exotic locations than those in the Gold section.

The trip was more than two days in and they all seemed in good spirits and refreshed.

The Red section is a good way for a group to travel, with two facing lounge chairs ideal for four people to share.

But, if you can afford it, Gold is the way to go.

Taken from the Sun Herald Sun