Anchovy on Bridge Rd redefines Asian dining in Richmond

IT’S the salty little fish that causes pizza wars, but this new mod-Asian restaurant shares little in common with its namesake and is much less divisive.

The clams are served in a turmeric broth at Anchovy. Picture: Josie Hayden

Is there an ingredient as divisive as the anchovy?

Friday night takeaway from the local pizza shop has done such damage to Engraulis encrasicolus that not even footage of its nocturnal habits, strategically leaked to TMZ, could resuscitate its image in the eye of most.

But those oily salt bombs that scarred so many are a far cry from the cured-in-salt plump-fleshed versions the Italians and Spaniards use and that have far more taste and class than any Kardashian.

But it takes a brave bartender to work one into a cocktail.

And while it’s probably not going to convert any rusted on haters, those of more sophisticated palates will find a drink of surprising subtlety in the anchovy martini made from 666 vodka from Tassie.

Ice-cold creamy vodka with a hint of savoury salt from a fish sauce wash served with two white anchovy-stuffed green olives on the side ($16). It’s both a brilliant aperitif and a drink that heralds the understatedly bold mission statement of Anchovy the restaurant, a place less polarising than its namesake.

Billed as “Modern Asian, modern Australian, a little bit in between” this new addition to Bridge Rd is doing its level best to reinvigorate what dining Asian in Richmond means in 2015.

And if it now means blood pudding and raw beef and celeriac teamed with galangal and clever chilli in surrounds that rock just the right amount of chic austerity, then Richmond’s looking bright – and especially delicious right now.

Thi Le is in the kitchen, and having worked with chefs unafraid of bold flavours – Christine Manfield in Sydney, Andrew McConnell here – her menu shows a similarly unapologetic devotion to refined plating of big tastes.

That blood pudding comes as a crisp fried rectangle served on a small lettuce leaf. There’s a lovely lingering creaminess to the sausage that’s teamed with slivers of pickled ginger to cut through the richness. Fresh herbs and the cool crispness of the lettuce complete a magic mouthful ($8 each).

Slices of pork sausage brightened with galangal come sliced and pan-fried and served with a mint-strewn tumble of fine celeriac ribbons. A green chilli and lime dressing adds citric heat, the lot all to be scooped and eaten with accompanying rice crackers. It’s another cracking dish ($15).

Meaty clams swimming in a turmeric broth sing of the salty sea, with fresh red chilli and dill adding verve and colour ($23), much like the soundtrack that sat this night firmly in the 60s, introducing a new generation to the Beach Boys and the Ronettes seemingly sans irony.

Not that the package as a whole hasn’t been deeply thought through. Whether the offer to take coats on arrival or of tap or sparkling water upon seating, the smart table settings, linen napkins, elegant glassware into which wines by the glass are poured at table – it’s a stylish and professional whole that gets it very right.

Vietnamese mint tea is the first thing you’ll drink (complimentary), but make sure it’s not the only thing, as along with that martini there’s a great line in non-alcoholic tipples. A house spiced ginger ale, for instance, or tamarind sour, are clever drops for drivers or dry July-ers.

While the dozen or so bottles on the wine list are of undeniable interest and class, it’s heavily skewed towards those who are happy to send at least $60 on a bottle or $13 and up on a glass.

But there’s a hundred eateries in the area catering to those who want a cheap cheerful for their brown paper bag. There’s probably nowhere else serving goat.

A generous bowl of meaty chunks are served in a rich braise of taro and fermented curd. Crisp shallots sprinkled atop add crunch, raw chrysanthemum leaves add an alluring, mildly grassy floweriness that teams well with the tender meat.

It’s one of only a couple bigger/main-sized dishes and a winner ($28), especially when teamed with a big serve of charred cauliflower “fried rice” (one of the only good things to come out of the paleo camp) that’s studded with heady lap cheong sausage and shredded cabbage ($13).

Even desserts are great. Pillow-soft slices of poached quince and cubes of quince jelly are hidden under a puffer jacket of light lemon curd that the white chocolate crumb wears well. As textural as the sweetness is tempered, it’s a pitch-perfect finale ($12) bettered only by a Vietnamese coffee ($5) that takes me straight back to my happy place, Hoi An.

There is so much to like about this polished new addition to Bridge Rd. Though anchovies will continue to divide, this Anchovy just conquers.

15/20

Anchovy

338 Bridge Rd, Richmond

9428 3526

anchovy.net.au

Hours: Tues-Sat from 5.30pm; Fri noon-2.30pm

Highlight: Braised goat with chrysanthemum

Lowlight: It’s draughty by the door

Originally published as Anchovy on Bridge Rd redefines Asian dining in Richmond