Treasures hidden in plain sight
UNSPOILT beaches, national parks, top drops and friendly locals add up to paradise writes Clint Bizzell.
I AM such a fan of South Australia but I have to admit, I’d never heard of the Fleurieu Peninsula. But after a few days here, it’s now one of my favourite places in the state.
Known as Adelaide’s adventure playground, “The Fleurieu” is just 45 minutes from the city and has 250km of pristine coastline and cliffs, plus rolling green hills and the luscious vineyards of the McLaren Vale wine region.
We’re staying on the southern coast of the Fleurieu, at BIG 4 Port Elliot Holiday Park. It’s right on pretty Horseshoe Bay, and you set up camp and watch waves roll in on the shore. We enjoy the ambience as we settle in with a platter of local produce including cheeses and olives.
The region has been one of South Australia’s favourite holiday destinations for generations. There is so much to do and see, and the locals are known for their hospitality.
To get the lie of the land, we joined Ben from Off Piste 4WD tours. The premise behind these experiences is to get off the beaten track with a local and enjoy areas of the Fleurieu that you may not discover on the well-worn tourist path.
Ben takes us for a drive to one of his favourite lookouts over the peninsula. Before us lies the heart of McLaren Vale with its rolling vineyards and then, where the vines meet the sea, the Gulf of St Vincent in all of its turquoise glory.
Ben comes alive when sharing his back yard. He grew up a little south of here, a childhood filled with happy memories four-wheel-driving with his dad. He loved discovering new places so much he started this tour a year ago to show others the hidden gems of the region he loves so much.
Ben’s parents also owned a vineyard so the local wines are in his blood and he can’t wait to take us to one of his favourites.
Vines were first planted in the McLaren Vale around 1838 and with its Mediterranean-like climate, wineries have flourished here ever since. Today it is a region world-renowned for its consistency. Ben says it is also the passionate producers who keep the reputation of the region alive, and create the cosmopolitan lifestyle combined with down to earth charm that draws people back time and again.
It is mainly famous for its shiraz but grows many other varieties, particularly Spanish and Italian styles.
Samuels Gorge Winery is like a step back in time. The barn in which the wine is made was built in 1853 as a goat shed and is perched on top of a ridge on the southern tip of the Onkaparinga River National Park. Tastings are hosted in what was an olive pressing shed, and a blacksmith before that. Justin, the winemaker, gets a thrill just from the views that greet him as he walks into his workshop each day. Ben’s favourite drop here is the grenache and, coupled with the view, it is one of the more enjoyable wine experiences I have had.
The final stop on our journey couldn’t be a more perfect way to complete our tour. Down by one of the Fleurieu’s spectacular beaches,
Ben has a picnic put together by McLaren Vale providore Blessed Cheese, including local asparagus, Harris Salmon and fresh squid. With that, Ben has created the perfect combination of nature, food, wine and company for which this region is so loved.
Our adventures on the Fleurieu don’t end there. On the southern coast of the peninsula lies The Coorong, a wetlands ecosystem comprising ocean beach, freshwater lakes, wetlands and saltwater lagoons. The lagoons of Coorong National Park are protected from the Southern Ocean by the dunes of the Younghusband Peninsula and are ideal to explore by kayak.
We meet Brenton from Canoe the Coorong, who started running kayak tours here after completing an eco-tourism degree and falling in love with the wetlands. The tours are for all ages and abilities, and offer a sustainable way of exploring this natural paradise. Brenton believes that by taking others out and learning more about the ecosystem, it has more chance of being preserved.
The Coorong stretches for 140km and is also where the Murray River meets the sea. We paddle out on to still waters that shine in the sunlight, with dunes on one side of us and native birdlife all around us.
In addition to the abundant birdlife, Brenton tells us the area also attracts dolphins, fur seals, emus and kangaroos. As he tells us, a flock of pelicans take off right on cue, as if to demonstrate the diversity.
The adventure is not just on the water, though. We get out and explore the dunes, and Brenton has one final treat up his sleeve. Bending down to fossick in the sand, he presents a haul of fresh cockles, which he proceeds to turn into an absolute feast, right there on the sand. In a pan with some spinach, finished off with lemon and dill, this meal is a treat for the senses in every way and a great way to celebrate the sustainable tours Brenton has worked so hard to craft.
Places We Go travelled to the Fleurieu Peninsula as guests of the South Australian Tourism Commission.
Watch Places We Go, Saturdays at 4.30pm, Network Ten.
GO2 MCLAREN VALE
Getting there
Staying there
BIG 4 Port Elliot Holiday Park
Doing there
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