Less is more for new generation of foundations
THE latest formulations for foundations are just out of this world — literally — writes KATRINA LAWRENCE.
IT’S a sign of the technological leaps and bounds currently being performed in the beauty industry that foundation is getting lighter, yet delivering the same skintone-correcting coverage as heavier formulations of the past.
Many new-generation foundations, in fact, feel barely there. Skincare-like in texture, they come across as a refreshing essence or slippery serum.
The secret is in a base of volatile oils, which help the pigment-packed formulations glide onto skin, before evaporating and leaving only coverage behind.
Lloyd Simmonds, a make-up artist who has been a fixture on the fashion circuit for many years, has seen foundations completely change face in his time.
“In the 1980s, foundations had more of a mask-like quality because women didn’t want their skin to show,” Simmonds reminisces.
“Technological advances, as well as catwalk trends, are driving a lightening up. Long-wear foundation used to be thick and obvious; now you might be able to see a velvety finish, but there’s no thickness.”
Maybelline New York Dream Wonder and L’Oréal Paris Nude Magique Eau de Teint led the way; now prestige brands are bringing out their takes on the trend.
Dior launches Nude Air Serum Foundation tomorrow; delivered via a dropper, the liquid, which feels like a serum oil, smooths easily over skin for a silky finish.
Due to hit counters later this month is YSL Fusion Ink Foundation, which boasted a waiting list of more than 12,000 before its UK launch. In addition to an ultralight texture, Fusion Ink claims a breakthrough in long-lasting power.
“To date, most long-lasting foundations use traditional polymers to improve long-wear, yet many have a negative impact on comfort,” says Caroline Negre, YSL scientific communication director.
Fusion Ink’s difference lies in a technology developed by NASA. “It was first used to capture, in space, dust from the comet WILD 2 in 2004, and keep them available for further analysis,” Negre explains.
The honeycomb-like, open-pore structure of NASA’s technology prompted YSL to look at its possible applications in the beauty field.
“It inspired us to create a longlasting foundation,” Negre says. “On the skin, it has high sebum-absorbent properties.”
This impressive ability to keep oil in check helps the velvet-finish foundation stay in place all day, and into evening.
“I love its polished, slightly mattified finish, but what’s great for women is its ease,” Lloyd Simmonds says.
“You apply it before work and then you don’t need to retouch it all day.”
Simmonds, the international creative director for YSL Beaute, recently used Fusion Ink on actor Jessica Chastain.
“It was the perfect foundation because we were on a press trip and Jessica had to be made up from 8.30 until 6pm, without me being able to go in every five minutes to fix her up.”
The foundation also lasted well into the wee hours for the YSL campaign shoot with model Cara Delevingne, which was set in the hallways of a Parisian hotel.
“The shot we ended up using was actually from 3am, so it was very true to the product,” laughs Simmonds.
A complimentary seven-day trial of YSL Fusion Ink is available at THE YSL counter in Myer or David Jones (while stocks last). This week, you also have the chance to meet Lloyd Simmonds. To book for Myer Sydney City (6pm, March 31) call 02 9238 9863; for David Jones, Elizabeth Street (12pm, April 1) call 02 9266 5187.
Genius new app to change the future of beauty
IN The Fifth Element, a barefaced Milla Jovovich looks into a Chanel camera-like contraption and emerges with eye make-up perfectly in place.
Technologically applied eyeliner might still be a thing of sci-fi movies, but virtual make-up is coming to a screen near you thanks to a genius new app.
L’Oréal Paris Makeup Genius, which launched in Australia this week, scans facial features before allowing the user to virtually try in real time any L’Oréal cosmetic, as well as full-face looks. Shoppers can also scan a product and “road-test” before purchase; how-to tutorials advise on application techniques.
The game-changing technology was developed in conjunction with Image Metrics, a company lauded for its facial mapping expertise and animation work for The Curious Case of Benjamin Button.
The technology captures 64 facial points and 100 expressions, meaning the make-up moves when you do. It accounts for more than 400 lighting conditions, and all ethnicities.
The startlingly realistic results are a digital version of a counter-side makeover.
“We are becoming a serious digital beauty service provider,” says Christophe Eymery, head of digital, L’Oréal Australia.
With big plans for the app’s evolution, Eymery is excited about the tie-in with the upcoming Cannes Film Festival.
“A team of make-up artists will review the red carpet looks and feed them into Makeup Genius straight away,” he says.
Makeup Genius users will soon be able to shop via the app, which will link to priceline.com.au.
“We’re very excited about Makeup Genius,” says Priceline beauty buying manager Anna Hull.
“It will complement the experience women get in traditional bricks-and-mortar stores.”
COUNTER CONFIDENTIAL: Delicious perfumes
THE new course of gourmand fragrances is flavoured with a twist of tastebud-tingling ingredients.
Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Eau Fraiche, $102, department stores
After a burst of citrus (mandarin, lemon, bergamot) and a blooming floral heart
(rose, freesia, jasmine), the delicious dry-down features notes of pistachio and almond.
B. Balenciaga, $100, department stores
The first time edamame has been used in perfume, the unusual note gives a cool, green edge to this lush, woody fragrance; other ingredients include iris root, cedarwood and cashmeran wood.
Juicy Couture Hollywood Royal, $85, department stores
For those with a sweet scent tooth, this limited-edition juice blends together top notes of candied apple, pear and pomelo; a creamy white-floral heart fades into a base infused with vanilla and marshmallow.
Jo Malone Geranium & Verbena, $90, 1800 661 062
Inspired by Edwardian England (think Downton Abbey), a dash of basil makes for a refreshing, elegant blend that will have you hankering for garden parties and cool cocktails.
Juliette Has a Gun Gentlewoman, $209, libertineparfumerie.com.au
A masculine, cologne-inspired fragrance for women, this easy-to-wear concoction contains notes of bergamot, bitter orange, lavender and almond, served on a musky base.
Originally published as Less is more for new generation of foundations
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