The skincare guide for dummies: What products you really do and don’t need
YOU don’t need to spend hundreds of dollars and have a jam-packed beauty cabinet to look good. We asked a dermatologist exactly what you need.
SHOPPING for beauty products should be fun, but too often the insane amount of choice paralyses us.
Now there are so many new products out there. Illuminating primers. Setting sprays. Winged liner stamps. It’s overwhelming.
Do we really need all of this stuff?
The answer is no. Taking care of our skin doesn’t need to be complicated.
We asked dermatologist Dr Michelle Hunt, a fellow of the Australasian College of Dermatologists, to answer the most common questions women ask about skincare: Do I really need this in my routine?
DO I REALLY NEED A … SUNSCREEN?
Answer: Yes
“The effects of UV exposure are cumulative, so wearing a sunscreen every day helps to minimise your exposure and hence risk of skin cancers and sun damage,” Dr Hunt said.
What about when it’s cloudy or rainy? The answer is still, yes.
“Sun damage is caused by UV radiation and is not related to ambient temperature. In fact, a cool and overcast day in summer can have similar UV levels to a warm sunny day,” Dr Hunt said.
There are two types of UV rays. UVA causes premature ageing and UVB causes sunburn and skin cancers.
“UVA rays can also penetrate through clouds and glass. While UVB is the main cause of sunburn and affects the upper layers of the skin, UVA penetrates more deeply. Both suppress immune function and play a role in development of skin cancer,” she said.
If you’re shopping for a sunscreen, Dr Hunt recommends you look for one that is “broad spectrum” — meaning it offers UVA and UVB protection — water resistant and SPF 50 plus.
DO I REALLY NEED A … RETINOL?
Answer: Yes, but not if you’re in your early or mid 20s.
Retinol, or Vitamin A, is a powerhouse anti-ageing ingredient. Often used in acne treatments, it promotes cell renewal, stimulates collagen production, thus reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
They can also partially reverse skin changes induced by sun exposure.
But retinols are quite powerful and not everyone needs to use them. So when should you start?
“Probably in our late 20s to 30s when cellular turnover declines, and fine lines and wrinkles start to appear,” Dr Hunt said.
“The only people that shouldn’t use retinol are those that are pregnant or breastfeeding.”
DO I REALLY NEED AN … EYE CREAM?
ANSWER: PROBABLY
The delicate skin under the eyes is much thinner, more sensitive, and quicker to show age and fatigue than the rest of the face.
It’s more prone to redness and inflammation, fine lines and puffiness.
But Dr Hunt says there’s disagreement in the cosmetic industry about the need for a specific product under the eyes.
“Many eye creams are specifically formulated for the delicate eye skin, so they tend to be less irritant and fragrance-free. Some have active ingredients to target problems specific to the eye area, such as dark circles, puffiness and fine lines,” she said.
“However, if you don’t have any of these issues, you may be able to use a simple facial moisturiser formulated for sensitive skin.”
DO I REALLY NEED AN … EXFOLIATOR?
Answer: Yes, but don’t go overboard.
There are two types of exfoliators but both do the same thing — removing dead skin cells.
“A physical exfoliant — think standard face scrub — utilises small grains or granules such as ground walnut shells, sugar, clay, coffee or a sponge or brush to manually remove skin debris,” Dr Hunt said.
“Chemical exfoliants remove dead skin cells by using gentle acids such as alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs such as glycolic or lactic acid) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs such as salycilyc acid) to “unglue” them, making way for new cell turnover,” she said.
So how often should we be using an exfoliator?
“Once or twice a week is generally enough,” Dr Hunt said.