How to become a pimple-popping pro at home

SQUEEZING a pimple too early or too forcefully can cause permanent scarring and make the mark look worse than before you started. Here’s how to do it correctly.

By Ashleigh Austen

3 min read

April 5, 2018 - 2:17PM

WE ALL know we shouldn’t do it, but there are few things more satisfying in life than squeezing a giant spot on your face.

As our intrigue into all things zits, blackheads and extractions proves (we know you follow Dr. Pimple Popper on Instagram), there’s a fine line between fascinating and repulsive — as well as safe and not so safe.

Ideally, extractions are best left to professionals to avoid scarring or worsening a breakout. But let’s get real: not everyone has a dermatologist on speed dial (or, you know, the extra cash). So we asked Skinstitut’s resident skin expert, Zoe Devine, to break down blemish control at home for us.

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How can you tell the difference between a spot to be squeezed and one that should be left alone?

The best acne to extract is referred to as open and closed comedones, blackheads and whiteheads respectively.

These lesions are non-inflammatory and contain a collection of sebaceous secretions and dead skin cells that have formed a complete compaction within the follicle. These usually feel like a bump in the skin rather than sore or painful.

The type of acne lesion that can be extracted (correctly) in a clinic is more of a pustule.

The pustule occurs as the white blood cells fight the infection forming pus; this then rises in the follicle and becomes visible (not as deep set as nodules or cysts).

Never touch a deep, red, inflamed and very painful breakout (either papules or cysts). It is likely that you will worsen the redness and inflammation.

Worst case scenario, if you squeeze an inflamed lesion you could potentially rupture the follicle wall under the skin and spread the acne-causing bacteria resulting in a worsening of your acne or more acne popping up nearby.

If inflammation worsens as a result of trauma from squeezing this can increase your risk of scarring.

What steps do you need to take to tackle it if it is ready?

1. First, soften the area with a tissue or clean towel soaked in warm water.

2. If working with a pustule, carefully open the pore (using a sterile needle), this gives the compaction an easy exit route out of the skin rather than “breaking” the skin on its exit.

3. Identify the direction of the follicle to determine where to apply pressure. Most follicles are not perpendicular to the skin, so applying pressure in one area or direction will not always do the job.

4. Use the correct “scoop and roll” technique (much like a ‘C’s shape). The end of the roll should be where the head of the breakout is. If the white head is ready to go it should easily pop and pus will be released. Usually, a hard compaction at the end indicates the lesion has been extracted correctly and a small amount of clear plasma may be secreted.

What are the biggest mistakes people make with extractions?

• Trying to extract a lesion before it is ready.

• Incorrectly extracting a lesion causing more skin trauma and impairing healing.

• Using fingers or nails, spreading bacteria or causing unnecessary skin trauma.

• Squeezing, rather than rolling and applying too much pressure, resulting in bleeding.

Those steel extracting tools beauty bloggers are touting — yay or nay?

Professionals often use these devices, however, they know when and how to use them. In most situations, the tissue has been softened prior to use to avoid unnecessary trauma to the skin.

These work well on certain types of lesions (open and closed comedones) for those that have more resilient skin. However, for those with delicate skin, these tools can aggravate and traumatise the skin, especially if too much pressure is used. If red marks are lingering on the skin after use, too much pressure has been applied when using this tool.

What kind of after-care products should you use on spots?

For any type papules and pustules that haven’t been extracted, try performing a spot treatment using a glycolic based product like Skinstitut’s Glycolic Cleanser 12%, followed by Laser Aid, which delivers anti-inflammatory and calming properties helping to alleviate redness in the skin.