Sad update after restaurant owner’s note rocked Sydney

The owner of a Sydney eatery forced to shut his doors after a brawl with a landlord has shared a sad update to the saga that gripped the hospitality sector.

The owner of a popular Sydney restaurant who made headlines after exposing his battle with a “selfish” landlord has walked away from the business, it can be revealed.

Contessa Balmain abruptly shut its doors in October, with a note hung in the window by owner Marco Adoncello sending shockwaves through the local hospitality industry.

“Due to physical and mental health reasons, Marco is no longer able to keep the doors of Contessa Balmain open,” it read. “Every attempt was made to keep the legacy alive, but unfortunately the selfish actions of the landlord squashed any hopes of that happening.”

The note hanging in the window of Contessa Balmain sparked fury among locals and customers.

Furious locals rushed to express their shock at the downfall of the eatery, which has been a fixture of Darling Street for 20 years.

But the closure was brief, with the attention encouraging negotiations between Mr Adoncello and the building’s owner to resume.

Contessa reopened a week later to the relief of loyal customers and it seemed the matter was concluded, but today Mr Adoncello announced he has sold the restaurant.

“After 20 years of ownership, it’s time to hang up my apron,” he said in a statement.

“Contessa will continue to trade well into the future by the new owner, who has retained the entire crew – including Jeannie, who has successfully managed Contessa for many years now.”

Contessa has been a popular fixture of Sydney’s hospital scene for decades. Picture: Craig Wilson

Selling was the “hardest decision” he’s had to make, he said.

“But at the age of 50, and with a couple health issues in recent years, the decision was pretty much made for me.”

He praised the Balmain community for “giving my life meaning” over the past two decades and supporting the business through highs and lows.

“You’ve always been there for me, and that is something I will carry with me for the rest of my life. It’s been an honour and privilege to serve you all these years. I will hand over the baton this Friday.”

Marco Adoncello has announced he’s sold his restaurant Contessa in Balmain. Picture: Craig Wilson

Customers have flooded his social media to offer their well-wishes and celebrate his long tenure.

“You’ve done an amazing job in providing a beautiful cafe for the community of Balmain,” local and former owner of Contessa, Peter Mystakas, wrote.

Another said: “Wishing you good health and happiness moving forward on your next adventure. Big love from my family to yours.”

Marco Adoncello said the decision was the hardest he’s had to make. Picture: Craig Wilson

In October, his wife Rose revealed it had been a challenging year for the chef, with the hospitality sector facing enormous pressures in the midst of a cost-of-living crisis.

“But I can honestly say that all the love and support he’s received recently has lit a fire in him that I haven’t seen in a long time,” Ms Adoncello said.

PropTrack economist Anne Flaherty said the Covid pandemic put intense pressure on businesses and commercial property owners alike, and that impact is still being felt.

“A proportion of landlords might now be looking to recoup some of those losses,” Ms Flaherty said.

Interestingly, the commercial real estate market remains “relatively soft”, but many landlords are still looking to increase rents anyway.

“The key reason why is to do with how retail properties are valued, which comes down to what the asking rent on the property.

“So, if you were to drop the asking rent, it would decrease the property’s value. Some landlords looking to protect the value of their portfolio or key assets do so by maintaining or raising rents.”

Marco Adoncello passes the baton this Friday.

It’s why some shopfronts on otherwise busy high streets remain vacant for extended periods of time, she said.

“Those landlords might prefer to have a space sit empty rather than drop the asking rent, which would impact the value of their asset.”

Contessa counts among its fans Inner West Council Mayor Darcy Byrne, who shared his relief about its continued trade in October.

“Great news – Contessa is back,” he declared.