Unmissable flavours in Hong Kong and Macao
Hong Kong and Macao are two vibrant and dynamic cities, where tantalizing aromas of food await at every turn.
Hong Kong and Macao are two vibrant and dynamic cities, where tantalizing aromas of food await at every turn.
You could be tempted by roast barbecue pork with its sticky-sweet glaze, paprika and garlic from Portuguese seafood rice, perhaps some perfectly-crafted steamed shrimp dumplings or maybe the sweet waft of buttery egg tarts, hot from the oven.
The beauty for visitors and locals alike is that these iconic dishes are now closer than ever to one another. While ferries can still whisk you between the two cities in about an hour, the impressive new 55km Hong Kong-Zhuhai-Macao Bridge, the longest bridge-cum-tunnel sea crossing in the world, can get you there even faster.
The only challenge, then, is choosing which of those aromas to follow first. In Hong Kong, with an astonishing 16,000 places to practice your chopstick (or fork) skills, you're not exactly short of options. Whether you're a first time visitor or a regular, it pays to kick off the day like millions of locals, with dim sum. The classic Cantonese experience involves choosing from dozens of small dishes, all accompanied by endless pots of tea to help you digest - after all, 'yum cha' translates as 'drink tea'.
A number of defiantly old-school dim sum joints like the London Restaurant on busy Nathan Road still feature trollies filled with bamboo steamers that are pushed around the restaurant - you just stop one of the staff as they proffer countless versions of dumplings and steamed buns, as well as more intriguing options like chicken feet or turnip cake. Jade Garden in Tsim Sha Tsui, just steps from the iconic Star Ferry on the Kowloon side, is a more sedate choice thanks to its stunning harbour views and almost 50 years of experience.
Another enormously-popular classic Cantonese delicacy is roasted meats known as siu mei. You can find them everywhere from hole-in-the-wall joints to Michelin-starred dining rooms, but wherever you try them they involve real craft to get the pork, duck, goose and more perfectly crisp on the outside and succulent inside. Few places have mastered marinating and roasting better than Kam's Roast Goose in the city's Wan Chai district. Join the line - there's always a line - for brilliant plates beloved by Anthony Bourdain and culinary inspectors alike, as the humble and cheap spot even holds a coveted Michelin star (lunch runs around AUD$10 per person).
Hong Kong, in common with Macao, also boasts one of the world's best fine dining scenes to sit alongside its legendary local eats. The elegant Tate Dining Room is where chef Vicky Lau crafts beautiful, thoughtful dishes melding the best of contemporary French and Chinese cuisine. The former graphic designer crafts her 'Edible Stories' menus that evolve through the seasons with breath-taking dishes such as blue lobster with scallion ginger sauce and a duet of Vin Jaune and Shaoxing wine foam.
Another sure-fire option for a faultless dining experience comes at Amber, the two Michelin-starred restaurant at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental Hotel. It's where Chef Richard Ekkebus recently launched a bold new culinary philosophy, dispensing entirely with dairy, minimising refined sugar and salt, but maintaining his reputation for incredible execution, plating and flavour.
It's just a short hop then over the South China Sea to Macao where a distinct yet complementary culinary adventure awaits. Macao was recently recognised for its gastronomy as part of an elite list of UNESCO Creative Cities, thanks to its unique Macanese cuisine that UNESCO officially proclaimed the world's first true fusion food.
It dates back more than five centuries to when the Portuguese settled in this corner of China’s Pearl River Delta, bringing with them their own ingredients and recipes that have in time melded with more local traditions and tastes. Riquexo restaurant - Riquexo means 'rickshaw' - sits in the leafy, historic streets of old Macao. It's run by 103-year-old Senhora Aida de Jesus and her family and serves dishes like tacho, a cabbage and pork stew where local sweet Chinese sausage replaces the usual Portuguese chouriço. Don't miss their minchi that mixes minced pork with soy and potatoes to hearty and delicious effect.
Macao's islands include Taipa and Coloane where sleepy former fishing villages show more tranquil sides, with local food in relaxed surroundings to match. Arguably the most well-known is Fernando's where diners happily wait for brilliant renditions of Portuguese and Macanese comfort food. The large space features gardens where you can relax before your red and white check tablecloth quickly fills with plates of peri-peri roast chicken, sensational garlic and white wine clams or head-on shrimp.
Integrated resorts and casinos are another draw for many to Macao and all feature a mix of renowned street food, Macanese cuisine and more upmarket options. If you want to splurge, try The 8 at the Lisboa Macao where Joseph Tse shows how and why he is one of just four chefs on the planet to hold three Michelin stars for Cantonese cuisine. Dim sum, roast meats and more all feature on the menu, showing how and why the exciting eats of Hong Kong and Macao cross borders, restaurant styles and even price points.
The two common denominators? Guaranteed deliciousness and great memories.