Tour guide’s tips: Top things you need to know in Jaipur, India

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Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds) Jaipur, India.

Rajasthan is such a surprise and delight at every turn – from the colours, the people, the food, the architecture, poverty and opulence to the extraordinary richness of the culture, says Reece Farmilo. Since his first visit in 2012, hosting a small group through Rajasthan with Pure India Collection, Reece has been hooked on its capital, Jaipur – otherwise known as the “Pink City”.

“It’s the quintessential starting trip for India. Many people worry about the crowds and the smell but once you’re there, it’s not as crazy as what people perceive it will be.

“And staying somewhere like the Rambagh Palace (a former residence of the Maharaja) is an oasis just outside of the city.” Here are Reece’s tips if you visit:

LEARN TO HAGGLE

If I only had one day in Jaipur, I would visit the incredibly beautiful Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds) and the markets. I just love that whole market area near the palace, I could walk through there for days.

The stallholders love to sit down and have a chat. Of course they’re hoping for a sale but they also just like talking to you. It’s such an unthreatening experience and along the way you can pick up lots of beautiful pieces, too.

Haggling is a part of the culture in the Pink City and it’s a bit of fun, especially as you’re usually only haggling over a couple of cents. I think it’s about putting a value on it before you start; know how much you’re prepared to pay.

Sari shop in the market in Jaipur. Picture: Steve Silverman / Flickr

Jaipur is well-known for its jewellery, but I personally love the fabrics. I’ve also bought a pair of old wooden cow bells which are quite beautiful and they had an amazing sound to them. They’re probably from a farm shed but they transport me back to that moment in India.

Just outside the city

I just love the Amer Fort, which is 11km from Jaipur. There’s so much history and grandeur, and sitting at the top you can see the walls in the distant fields. I’ve done it four times and I love going back there.

We also quite often make a detour to see Chand Baori in Abhaneri, near Jaipur, which is one of the largest stepwells. It is just stunning to look at and incredible to imagine those constructing it. In the past, we have arranged for clients to have a romantic dinner in the well with a beautiful table set up on one of the terraces and candles scattered up and down the stairs – it is very, very romantic!

Reece Farmilo.

BLOCK PARTY

Block printing is a very strong tradition in this region. About 40km from Jaipur there is an old textile-printing town called Bagru where we often take guests. It’s one of the last bastions of printers predominantly using traditional vegetable dyes of indigo, pomegranate rinds, and root of the turmeric. The teak blocks are made by carpenters in Jaipur and covered in intricate traditional designs. The tour includes a visit to Anokhi Design House where we talk with the head designer. Anokhi’s exclusive prints and designs have been featured in the pages of Vogue and Elle over the years.

COMFORT FOOD

I love trying the street food in Jaipur and haven’t had a bad experience yet but you’re always safe in the hotels if that’s a little too risque for your taste. Two dishes which I think are pretty unique in Jaipur are dal baati churma and laal maans.

The first is a baked flour ball covered in ghee and eaten with dahl, which sounds hideous but really is very good. I love curry and laal maans is amazing. It’s a mutton curry in a sauce of yoghurt and hot spices and tends to be quite rich in garlic – the sauce is perfect when you eat it with chapatis.

Originally published as Tour guide’s tips: Top things you need to know in Jaipur, India